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making friends with the local beach cleaners
evidence of my crazy plan to swim in the nippon kai (wet hair!), I had the chance to talk with these very hard working beach cleaners. Being a bit spent of all my memory card emotion, it was time to get positive again, and back to the purpose of seeing this beautiful country and it's gracious, polite people!
That morning was himid, and I got up and went for a long walk into the huills of Mt Ogi and Tsurumi, above Beppu town. The colours and agriculture were beautiful and reminded me of my times in north queenlsland.
On the memory stick front, I picked up one for 3000 yen for a 1gb memeory stick, sony of course, and got busy with some sightseeing. Beppu is lovely, and after some cleansing activity at the train station with the staff regharding my lost items, and kooban (police station, no it is not the TORENDI uniformed policeman that made me visit there, but my lost memory cards I wanted to report), I made my way to the SUNAYU/ sunaburo 3 mins by locasl train. Every where I go I attract some attention with my snail like pace and remarks about how omoi (heavy) it looks! I made a friend again with a University student studyin history, and then down to granny at the sand bath entrance. It
all comes off in typical ofuro style, and you lay to bake at 38C with yukata whilst some lovely mannerred ladies shovel hot sand over you. At 1000 yen, this is great cheap fun! Loved it.
So I left Beppu and the anxt of my memory card loss behind and it was on to Shimonseki and Hagi for the next chapter of my journey. I had a bit if drama with train connections, but then again what would it be without, and made it to Hagi station about 9pm. With the help of some very kind Japanese boys I made it to Nakamura ryokan in Furuhagi machi (old town), having my own private tatami room for some zen moments. WE had tea first, then I was offerred to enter the ofuro at 10.30pm. I thought, hell, thats late, but actually enjoyed bathing before a peaceful nights sleep. The coastline up to Hagi and towards Matsue is visually rugged and stunning in parts, average in others, and has set in me a deep love of this area.
Hagi, in Yamaguchi prefecture, is historically known for it's port and pottery. Based ion the nishi kaigan, westren coast, of honshuu, it
first glimpse of coastal Miyazaki ken
not the best view but glad to see the sea again! is a glorious spot for some pottery buying, shrine viewing, and history lessons. I decided it wascrazy thing time, and baptised my self in the waters of Kikugahama beach, just along from the Hagi castle ruins. At 16C or so, it was a great closure to my memory card loss, and way to start a new day with some beach friends I made. I did some sightseeing to Shoin shrine and the birthplaces of several japanese nobleman that were victimised for the inclusion of outside beliefs and education....long story, but very intersting how they fought for this right. Their old residences can still be viewed in Hagi town. I also had a really nice walk up to Tsuredai hill, at which resided quaint village type abodes and a rambling orchard area. There were hydrangeas, stone fruit, beans, onions harvesting and all toiled over with great detail and long working days. Authentic, and just what I wanted to see.
That afternoon, I headed to Masuda and Matsue, for my intended sunset. Masuda was a 1 hr stop over and I got the opportunity to see some gorgeous photography from various Shimane prefecture artists at the shimane cultural centre. The arts
hand cleansing in Beppu
These free hand and foot baths are rampant in Kyuushuu, just insert body part and indulge! centre also has a museum as well. The whole of town was dead quiet, but a neat chance to take photos. As for Matsue, the sun set, but behind clouds and light showers, so it was an imaginary sunset! It has a lovely vibe about it - cobbled streets, four main bridges (Shin ohashi, Matsue ohashi, Shinjiko ohashi etc), river cruises, the 400 plus yr old Matsue castle recently restored, all centred on the Ohashi gawa river and the shores of lake Shinji. For a bit of luxury I stayed at a business hotel, Matsue city hotel, for 4 sq metres all for me! If I was to engage in a spot of cat swinging I would be somewhat inhibited.
Coming up, Matsue castle and beyond. I hope it is every bit as good as nishi honshuu my favourite hands down so far!!
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