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Published: July 25th 2010
Gion teahouse Street
The picture DOES NOT even do this street justiceIn Kyoto, culture dwells in the nooks of the cobblestone alleys and seaps from the wood slats of the teahouses in Gion. The sliding of each paper door is like her whisper and the accompanying scent of incense, her breath. She is elusive like the Geisha, yet her heart beats everywhere. This place is ancient and magical. I can't seem to capture her beauty with a camera lens.
Kyoto was one of the few cities in Japan untouched by World War II; therefore much of the culture and originality remains. We have been exploring Kyoto by taking busses or subways to the older areas (Higashiyama/Gion), and then venturing out on foot. These neighborhoods make me feel like I am tucked in the pages of the book,
Memoirs of a Geisha. My favorite areas are lined with 17th century restaurants and teahouses made of Japanese cypress and red cedar.
We accidently stumbled upon one group of teahouses built alongside a brook of sorts, each connected to the road by a fairy-tale-like bridge. Although cherry trees camouflage the teahouses from the roadside, I could still see geisha entertaining their businessmen clients. It was exciting to
Ninen-Zaka
Southern Higashiyama walking tour see such an ancient tradition.
A highlight of Kyoto was a half-day walking tour mapped out in my
Lonely Planet travel book. We walked through charming streets lined with old wooden houses, traditional shops and restaurants.
The best part of the tour was the Kiyomizu-dera, a temple built in 1633. I have been to many temples in Asia, but this one had some really unique features: sweeping views, magic water, and a walk-through womb (that is not a type-o...it really says womb).
As for the views, the temple area has many immense halls and shrines, all made of wood and ornately decorated in reds, blacks and grays. Each building is surrounded by lush, green foliage and carved stones. The backdrop of the Kyoto skyline is also a beautiful sight to behold.
Near one of the halls, the Otowa-no-taki waterfall is said to have sacred waters with therapeutic properties. Visitors reach out to capture the water by holding long, metal poles with cups attached. I was not prepared for the force of the stream of water, nor the gasps of horror from onlookers as my cup shot out from my stick into the pool below. I hope this doesn't produce opposite
results!
Good thing for me I wished for the strength and health to complete this trip while inside the womb of a female bodhisattva (symbolically, at least). This walk-through womb was really, really, really dark--Pitch dark. I held onto a rope as I took baby steps through the length of the cavern. At the end of the darkness was a dimly lit rock, which I spun to make my wish. This was my second time in a womb, and I'm sure it was much cooler and roomier than the first time around.
Nara On Billy's final full day in Japan, we took a day trip to Nara, the first permanent capitol of Japan (646 a.d.) The historyof the city, however, dates back before Christ. Therefore, Nara is a repository of Japan's cultural legacy and heritage; much of which is in an area called Nara-Koen. I was just happy to find fruit stands! I bought a three-dollar tomato, a four-dollar peach and some blueberries--The best breakfast so far!
But the best surprise of the trip was at a park outside the Kofuku-Ji Temple and neighboring museum. Turns out, deer roam freely around this area and are a tourist attraction
The Deer in Nara
Chasing me for food.
Cute until they catch you and start biting your butt. of their own, with vendors selling crackers as deer food.
Sweet little deer...
Looking all Bambi-like...
Just waiting to be pet.
Clever animals too...
Watching patiently as I purchased a bundle of crackers.
But the moment I stepped away from the cracker cart--before I could even unwrap the cracker bundle--the deer tribe surrounded me!
One tore apart my bag of fruit and nearly nabbed my peach, while another tried to chew my travel book. Two larger deer went for the crackers in my other hand while the biggest deer of all butted me with his antlers and bit my butt.
These deer weren't so cute anymore!
I ran from them, but they chased me, nipping at me until I threw the crackers on the ground. I was able to escape when another tourist approached with his soon-to-be-devoured cracker bundle.
It was fun to sit under a tree and watch the deer assault unsuspecting tourists.
As for the best site in Nara, it was the Toda-Ji temple and the Daibutsu (Great Buddha). The Buddha is one of the largest bronze figures in the world (16+ meters), and is housed in the largest wooden building
Daibutsu-den Hall
the largest wooden building in the world in the world (built in 1709). The area is one of eight in Nara designated by the United Nations as a world heritage site. We visited a few others, but the blistering, tiring heat and limited shade made the area difficult to view on a day-trip. I would like to visit Nara (and Kyoto, for that matter) in the fall or spring and spend more time comfortably enjoying it's wonders.
--
I am finishing this journal entry on a train bound for Hiroshima. Billy has gone home, and I am, for the first time in my life, traveling in a foreign country by myself! I am excited to go at my own pace, choose my own adventures and consider my own silence. I am also a bit nervous for the same reasons.
I feel the purpose of my journey is about to unfold.
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Terrilynn
non-member comment
My favortie
This is my favorite entry so far! The deer story reminds me of the aggressive pigeons in Italy, I was laughing so hard while mentally picturing you running from the big bad deer! Enjoy your time alone, I'm sure you will find some very healing moments coming to you. Love you and be safe, Terrilynn