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October 29th 2009
Published: October 31st 2009
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Kinkaku-ji Temple Kinkaku-ji Temple Kinkaku-ji Temple

The golden pavillion.

Day 8 - Temples, Shrines, Temples, Shrines...



Last night we checked into K's House Kyoto which is close to the train station in the south side of Kyoto. We dropped our bags off and headed to down town Kyoto and walked millions of miles up and down streets of restaurants, stalls and shops.

Up early as usual with a big day planned. We first headed down to Kyoto station and got a train to Fushimi Inari-taisha Shire with their 4km of red tori gates.
"The magical, seemingly unending path of over 5000 vibrant orange torii gates that wind through hills behind Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine makes it one of the most popular shrines in Japan. The walk around the upper precincts is a pleasant day hike. It also makes for a delightfully eerie stroll in the late afternoon and early evening, when the various graveyards and miniature shrines along the path take on a mysterious air.

This shrine, dedicated to the God of rice and sake in the 8th century, also features dozens of statues of foxes. The fox is seen as the messenger of the god of grain foods, Inari, and the stone foxes are often known by the same name. The keys often depicted in the fox mouthes are keys to granaries. This shrine is the central location for some 40,000 Inari shrines throughout the entirety of Japan. "

We got back on the train and headed to Arahimaya and went to the Tenryu-ji Temple with it's beautiful gardens.

"Tenryu-ji Temple is main attraction is its Zen garden which dates from the 14th Century. A triumph of design, the garden features a large pond which catches the reflection of the maple trees and large rough-cut rocks which surround it. It also makes use of "borrowed scenery" from the nearby hills of Arashiyama, which seem like the next tier of the garden. Many elements of this garden were prototypes for later gardens built elsewhere.

In autumn, the maples provide a fine display of fall color, while in spring you might see the blossoms of wild cherry trees or the stunted trunks of Japanese red pines on the distant hills. In any season, as you sit in the shelter and view the garden, you will likely find your thoughts settling and your body relaxing. The garden has a way of calming one's spirit it was designed partly for this reason.

The name Tenryuji means, "Heavenly Dragon Temple," and it was built after a shogun dreamed of a dragon rising from a nearby river, which was taken to mean that the recently-deceased emperor Go-Daigo was not resting peacefully. The temple with its garden was built to placate his spirit. It is now the headquarters of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism, and visitors can sample the temple's Zen vegetarian cuisine, known as "shojin ryori."

Up the road from the temple is the Path of Bamboo which looks like it's a scene out of Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon.

After a few goes at getting the bus we went up to Kinkaku-ji Temple (Golden Pavilion). It is so golden and is in the middle of this pond that is reflective like a mirror and the gardens around as well. Every photo was like a postcard...gorgeous.

"It is perhaps the most widely-recognized image of Kyoto: the small, graceful temple whose upper tiers, balconies and eaves are covered in shining gold. Seen reflected in the adjoining "mirror pond" with its small islands of rock and pine, Kinkaku-ji Temple, "The Temple of the Golden Pavilion," is a breathtaking must-see.

The building's first purpose was to serve the retiring Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu(1358-1409) as a residence. The gold-leaf-adorned building was converted into a Zen temple shortly after his death. In an event that was later fictionalized by the renowned author Yukio Mishima, a 21-year-old monk burned Kinkakuji down in 1950. The temple was rebuilt in 1955, and continues to function as a storehouse of sacred relics."

Down the road from the Golden Pavilion is the Ryoan-ji Temple with it's zen rock garden.

"Ryoan-ji Temple is famous for its mysterious rock garden, the most celebrated in Japan, which defies attempts at explanation. Enclosed by an earthen wall, fifteen carefully placed rocks seem to drift in a sea of raked white gravel. A viewing platform right above the garden gives visitors an unimpeded view, although from whatever angle you view the garden, you can never see all fifteen stones."

Back into town with a quick stop at the Imperial Palace gardens for some coffee and pancakes and we headed back to downtown Kyoto. We were so hungry and tired that we decided to sample the Japanese McDonalds...weird...Chris got this burger with squishy cheesey prawn stuff inside. They have teriyaki burgers there too! We felt just as sick as we do at home afterwards!

Day 9 - Nara



We tried really hard to sleep in today but got up just before 7am. Today is a day trip to Nara which was 1 hour outside Tokyo on a local train. In Nara there are heaps of deers which apparently are messengers of the gods! You can buy these biscuits for 150yen to feed them with. Bambi was everywhere!!

"This beautiful lawn park extends 4km east to west and 2km north to south. Groups of deer who are thought to be messengers of the gods, roam freely through the park. Its beautiful landscape with half-hidden views of temple and shrine rooftops enchants visitors throughout the seasons."

The walk around the park is beautiful and cool and lined with stone lanterns the whole way. We got all the way to the top of the park then headed down towards the Todaiji Temple which is the biggest wooden structure in the world and inside it is the largest indoor Buddah in the world!

"The world famous Todaiji Temple, designated as a world heritage site, contains various pavilions and halls, including many designated as national treasures of Japan. Among them, the “Daibutsuden Hall” is the world's largest wooden structure, and the home of the popular “Great Buddha of Nara”. This gigantic statue is 15m tall and weighs approximately 250 tonnes."

Back to Kyoto in the train and we headed to the Kiyomizu-dera Temple which is up in the hills of East Kyoto, not far from our hostel. The temple is just perched on the edge of a mountain over looking Kyoto and we were there for sunset. The road leading away from the temple is called teapot lane because of all the pottery stores found there.

"The expression "to jump off the stage at Kiyomizu" is the Japanese equivalent of the English expression "to take the plunge." Kiyomizu-dera Temple is perhaps the most beloved of Kyoto's temples, and is a fixture in the minds of the Japanese people. The temple's platform juts out of the side of a mountain supported by 13-meter-high wooden columns. The main hall with its distinctive hip-shaped roof of cypress bark rests on the platform, and houses within it a priceless statue of Kannon Bodhisattva, the goddess of mercy. From the platform, one can appreciate fine views facing west over the city of Kyoto. This is an auspicious place to watch the sun set, which may also explain the romantic associations accorded to the temple."

After serveral drinks at the hostel (the cheapest in Japan by far) we thought we should head out for dinner so we walked towards the station and found this random little place. We had no idea what we were ordering but ended up with a really nice meal! Don't drink in Japan...it's so expensive!! A beer is $10-15!

Back to the hostel to pack and get ready for Hiroshima in the morning.



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1st November 2009

the most concise descriptions
Your descriptions of the temples and shrines in Kyoto and Nara are very impressive. To jump off the stage at Kiyomizu means that you take a big chance in your life and hope for the best. For me coming to Australia in 1978 was exactly to jump off the high stage. As I landed on the lowest ground, I had to climb up the steep hill to gain a wider view. Now I have a much better view of my life and others after having live here over 31 years. I am amazed to find how far I had to jump. I am pleased to know that you have taken much interest in history and culture of Japan. Haha yoli

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