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Published: March 10th 2007
Hey to everyone!
Firstly I'd like to say thanks to the guys that posted the comments; keep 'em coming, they're a great to read in a country where practically no-one speaks you language, yet alone knows you name!
This is my Kyoto update, and it's actually a bit of a cheat because I am currently sitting in a delightful backpacker hostel in Hanoi that is quite reminiscent of Byker Grove (mainly for the shreikingly loud colours - and that's not an entirely bad thing). Really it's very nice - probably the best hostel available in Hanoi, yet still dirt cheap, and with breakfast thrown in for only around $5 a night. Certainly it beats Japan on the value scale, which was hideously expensive but totally worthwhile as I had so much fun.
Back to Kyoto - or actually, even to just after leaving Tokyo. The day after, I visited one of the most beautiful areas of country in the world in the national park around Hakone. Though not cheap, the hostel was out of this world - it was almost exactly like one of those traditional Japanese inns or Ryokan you see in the movies, paper walls and all! And the best part was that as I was the only guy there I had a whole room to myself, so it was like 5 star accomodation for hostel prices. Oh yeah, and it just so happened the hotel next door had a traditional onsen or volcanic hot spring bath we were able to use - livin' the good life! Major highlight was the crazy cartoon pirate ship that took us across the crater lake. When I first got there it looked like it wouldn't be operating, and they had this crazy americana thing instead, which they ushered me on to and then I discovered it was just the waiting boat!?! - the fact that this was simply taken as read shows how crazy but awesome Japanese culture is. After that I took a walk through the woods, which was less entertaining for the scenery than for the unnerving signs that began appearing halfway round warning travellers to be careful, "because a dangerous wild boar WILL appear." Unfortunately saw no boars- had relaxing time instead.
To get to Kyoto, the old imperial capital for around a thousand years, I took the Shinkansen or bullet train that is practically infamous. Actually, you hardly noticed it was going that fast, except for when it pulled into platforms you had to quickly jump off or you would be on yourway to the next stop. Kyoto on first impression was inevitably disappointing. Most of it is now really 60s looking industrial, and the journey to the hostel seemed to confirm my worst fears. However, in little isolated islands, Kyoto becomes a vision of wooden 19th century backstreets and picturesque or jutting imperial temple, and there you can absolutely lose yourself (and the rest of the city, which is always a bonus). On the first day I simply lost myself in the eastern quarter of Gion which is home to a wonderful shrine overlooking a gorge and valley that are absolutely out of place in the city. I also toured the nearby streets which are haunted by Geisha, but as they are notoriously shy I didn't force any to have their pictures taken with me - instead I went to a mix of cultural treats and saw trainee maikos. Next day was packed from first to last - from the beautifully arranged zen gardens of the Ginkakji -ji or silver pavillion to the Kinkakji-ji or golden pavillion which is actually coated in gold - a sight which as you can imagine is totally breathtaking. I also found time to visit the Shogun's castle, the Nijo-jo, which once again could probably fit Chippy on top of its fortifications, and which was a hive of intrigue with clever gadgets such as floors that admitted a nightingale sound creak as people stepped on them to warn you they were coming. I also managed to see yet another theme park - yes, I know, it's shocking extravegance, but this one was a film company's set and park, and whilst I was there thety were actually filming a samarai epic. Unfortunately my attempts to nudge my way into the cast were subtly undermined by the director taking absolutely no notice of me, but I think when he realises what he missed he'll pick up the phone. In the meantime, I got some cool pictures I can't wait to upload. The other backpackers at the hostel were great too, and the manager actually had to chuck us out of the common room and make us go to bed because we were up way past curfew talking. Hoping the people here will be as good, although they seem less the talkative type and more the drink-orienated type. We'll see. Anyway, one and a half day's journey and one incredibly uncomfortable night in Hong Kong airport later here I am. Hanoi certainly seems to have less to do so I'm looking forward to chilling a bit. And of course there is the museum of the American war. Down with those capitalist pigs!
Loads of love to you all,
Richard
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Eleanor
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Heylo
hey there, where are the hair comments? did you have it cut into an unbelievable mohcan (Can't Spell)? Just wanted to tell you I saw the best guy- had proper french style curly tash, awesom!! Take care and enjoy the scenery!! lots of love