Monday night sake?

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Futons are not our friend. After waking with a sore back each morning we've been here, I was pleased to wake without pain. Only to sneeze while reaching for a tissue and put my back out. And the 'pillows' aren't doing Jules' neck any favours. I don't remember these aches and pains last time, but we weren't 40 somethings last time.

Kyoto is the city of a thousand shrines and we plan to check out a few of them today. It's also the city of a thousand transport options. Trains are so patronised here that private operators are justified to build private rail lines adjacent (in parts) to the existing JR lines. There is also 2 subway lines and multiple bus operators. This makes in unnecessary to own a car and most people ride their bikes to the stations and get around on the trains, buses and subway. It also makes it very confusing for tourists.

The two train options to Fushimi Inari. THe JR option is covered by our rail pass but 10 minutes walk and the private option is a minute walk and the station is closer to the shrine entrance. I read that we can use our Tokyo Suica (go-card) on Kyoto transport and this is loaded with Yen. We opt for the private Keishan line and try to tap on. It doesn't work the same as it does in Tokyo and you can actually use the Suica as a debit card when you buy the tickets from the machines. Tickets sorted and we board the waiting train. Unfortunately it's an express train and Fushimi Inari is but a blur in the window. We overshot by a few stations and have to change platforms and head back on an "all stations" train.

We make it, it's worth it and worthy of the crowds. There are hundreds of shrines here and they are joined by the thousands of vermillion (orange-red) gates and sub-gates. It is nice on the eye and when we get higher up the mountain there are less tourists and more space and time to appreciate the surrounding forest and veiws of Kyoto. We don't make it to the top - little legs has had enough. A bottle of Orangina and half a box of Poki biscuits only gets us so far.

The orange, sorry vermillion, gates protect the shrines and so do a multitude of stone foxes. The shrine is renowned for bringing sucess and wealth - originally for a successful rice crop and now for a successful business. The gates are purchased by businessmen to bless a business venture or in thanks for a successful business. The big gates can cost tens of millions (yen) and the tiny ones a couple of thousand. The combination of vermillion and black is visually appealing - I want my next bike to be these colours.

We decend at speed. There is a row of meat-on-a-stick vendors waiting for my yen. Pork, chicken, crab, quail, beef, veinna sausages and some other weird shit bbq'd on a stick are tempting me. The kids get a Japanese dagwood dog and I choice the steak on a stake. Jules had a miso rice pop and we all left happy. I went back for seconds and the meat man was proud to see me return. Jules got a great shot of a lady praying on the bridge entering the shrine. She had been in the same spot for hours and we wish we knew what she was doing/saying.

The train back to town was almost error free. Heading for Gion (Geisha District) we should have got off at Gion-Shijo and we got off early at Kyimuzi-Gojo. Nevermind, it afforded us the chance to stroll along the Kamogawa River and take in the chilly Kyoto vibe. We revisit a Starbucks that Jules and I sort refuge in 2003 - a different kind of shrine. Chia Lattes for Jules and Vanilla Frapps and American waffles for the kids - they didn't have those in 03! Or did they?

Jules and Deaks spot a Temosin massage place upstairs and we both book in for a 20 minute neck/back rub. It helps a bit, but I need much much more.

A spot of shopping in the massive Teramachi Shopping Arcade - earings and a Kimono for Milla, a ninja mask and a wooden katana for Deaks. Jules picked up a beautiful woodbrock painting from the coolest antique bookshop!

I run Kerri Sayer - we went to Scarborough State School together. We knew each other were in Kyoto - thanks FB - but what are the chances of bumping into each other. We quickly trade travel tips and must-dos and we're on our way.

While we've stepped out 15 kms today and some of it up a decent hill - we walk home and soak up a Monday eveing in Kyoto. We find a soba restaurant not far from home. The decor is traditional and wodden with a mixture of tourists and locals. It's cold outside and Jules orders some sake to warm her up. It's served up in a pottery vase and a sipping bowl. Her first sip produces a gasp and I can see she won't be finishing this alone. The first sip does taste like pure alcohol but every sip reveals more flavour and by the 3rd bowl I'm starting to enjoy it and it has both our bellies warm.

A chef makes the soba onsite and it is a delicious combination of broth and noodle. Jules and I have tempura prawns on top and Deaks gets a vegetable soba that requires assembly. Millsy has the fried chicken and Japanese omelette which we all sample. Delicious!

We walk home using the Kyoto tower for navigation. We chat as we pass the august Higashihonganji Temple and drop into a FamilyMart for a six pack of sliced bread, 2 cans of Kirin and some Japanese chocolates for dessert.

Rain and a max of 13' is forecast for tomorrow. Might be an indoor day.

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