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Published: June 13th 2008
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In Japan there are temples on main streets, in back alleys, next to the ocean and in the mountains. Kotohira is a mountain temple and is generally referred to as Kompira-san. Located on the side of Mount Zozu the temple has 785 steps to the main shrine and 1,368 steps to the inner shrine. Kotohira city has a calm old feeling that I associate with Nara or Kyoto. Perhaps this feeling stems from the narrow roads and city layout. Or maybe it is because the road that leads up the mountain turns into a street full of souvenir shops. The sides of the path were full of them when I started taking my first steps up the mountain. After the first long set of stairs the shops disappear and you are on the temple grounds. Cherry trees were losing their blooms and were whispering on the ground. If you ever go to Kompira-san you would reach a break, then another set of stairs. Another break and more stairs. Finally you would reach the main shrine. If you are ambitious you could continue up the quiet narrow mountain path to the inner shrine tucked away to the right of the main shrine
complex. Most people choose not to make this journey so the path is usually abandoned. I tried for the inner shrine, but never made it. I had to turn back because the sun was beginning to sink and the thought of walking down the steps in the dark was not appealing. Climbing up Kompira-san is quite a tiring journey, but the views from the temple and the feeling of accomplishment is well worth it.
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