Daisetzusan, Toya-ko and Iwate prefecture - the snowy highlights of Northern Japan: 12 to 15 March 2017

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Unlike arriving in unknown territory, the Furano area didn't demand a map.



Picking up where 2016 left off, we collected our snow shoes and had a short test run near one of the fairways at Furano golf course. Still in deep snow, ones ball would definitely be invisible here, and the 19th hole was closed.



Johns shoe gear with the heel bar that flicked up was to prove invaluable for the next days climbing plans. Our verdict was its superiority to Myoko gear, and we left Alpine Back country Rental pleased to put a face to the name of his wife Lucy, the email contact from the visitor centre .



Restocking the hotel fridge with supplies from Ralse mart, we found ourselves at a nearby one-lady-band ramen outlet. Putting aside our thoughts on the slowly burning fag in the background, and our original ramen restaurant plans as it was shut, she rustled up a very edible broth with free yakitori sticks thrown in. A husky voiced Furano local, we explained our plans and origins from NZ. Always well received.



The hotel onsen, a modern and modest 44C bath, readied us for rest, and the days climbing at Hakuginso ahead.



Departure set by train schedules, we boarded bound for Kami-Furano after 8am, and connected just outside the station with a bus to Fukiage onsen, in an area known generally as Hakuginso. Local knowledge had it that it was a snow hikers and off piste skiers delight, offering plenty of "terrain", and with several tours running in this area



Powder deep, trees dense, and free of our poles, we set off into the forest towards our left of our bus stop, with over 4 hours spare before the gloved bus driver would turn up again. White cake icing dripped from the Christmas trees - absolutely gorgeous.



Few skiers and hikers had marked trails before us, indicating a safe passage. Those scooting down the mountain, or trudging up distant but visible paths, were few. Virtually it was ours, and the views after 90 minutes of uphill (especially after deciding to forgo our poles for freeing the hands), truly spectacular.



A chill set in at a hut, our turn around spot, and we descended across the opposite side of the ridge. All the while as Mount Tokachi fumed in the distance of which with wind direction we were safe from.



Inevitably I compared this location from 9 years before, visiting in late May, when it was flooded with greenery, exposed, colourful volcanic rocks, and ultimately, the hot and high onsen of these parts.

Tokachi dake onsen was traded for Fukiage this time, after our cool descent, and the experience of soaking the body in 38-44C water with snowy peaks in sight, every bit as wonderful.



Our bus came, so too the connection by train like clockwork, and we retired to our station-side hotel by mid afternoon. Discovering the free 25m pool, gym, onsen and spa access at Furatto (one minute from the hotel) built in a massive bonus to our stay at Natulux. Certainly, we'll be repeat visitors.



Then the sun set over the opposing range. The light was dancing on this incredible landscape and the Canon or iPhone clicked for P2 copious times.



Sealed with dinner at our past favourite, Fukinotou, and now furnished with wooden sake cups as a return gift gesture from the friendly owners, we sunk well to sleep, after again, another onsen.



Those snow shoes needed returning that day, so, with an icy cold start we headed to the local park. It freezes over from around November and the hill beside it offers views of the town and beyond after a short 20 - 30 minute climb. Buddhist figurines, enveloped in snow lay in rows atop the park ridge. Soon enough, we bush bashed down the resort side of the hill to park level, feeling the chill and admiring the 70 plus year olds on a morning XC skiing circuit.



P2 confirmed the temperature. It was -5C roughly in the forest and -4 in town by 10am. Robust creatures that we are from a temperate land, we coped well, and blistex ointment was never far away.



Our exit time was before 1pm and with plenty time left after check out, we made use of Furrato, one of our highlights of the stay, then actually relaxed over an expensive yet city worthy coffee. The running jokes of ... "got your gloves?" ... "got your towel" .... "got your computer?" .... "got your hat?" .....would live on.



A local train one carriage special picked us up. We visited Takikawa again, a small town, without blizzard conditions this time, briefly touched in with the chic Sapporo crowd, and continued to Toya.



Slowly we got our reservation sorted for the following day, our curly itinerary clearly nightmarish for station staff. They studied intensely the station manual and now dark, we crossed by taxi to the nearby Toyako onsen aside lake Toya.



This area has been created as a UNESCO geo park since the recent eruption of Mount Usu in the last decade. Prior to that, a massive 1910 eruption formed many craters, affectionately referred to by our guide from Toya Guide Centre as "Mum and her babies".



Sunrise was just before 6am. Come 6:30, light fell on the lake so beautifully that I congratulated the researcher on his location choice. Mount Yotei, an inactive strata volcano, aka 'Fuji of Hokkaido', reflected on the water with light cloud, then quickly revealed itself as the sun came out. Idyllic.



Yuji-san bestowed much local knowledge on us, such as edible green ground buds that appear in spring, plenty of weasel or fox footprints, and a steaming fumarole within hands reach on the southern slopes of Mount Yosomi



Regrouping back at Pension Ohno, a comfortable stay with an onsen receiving water from the recent eruption, we were grateful to geology!



Gloved taxi driver-San took us back to the modest town of Toya where we took several connections to reach the last of our alpine spots.



We reached Iwate prefecture and Appi kogen, a tiny town aside the resort in far northern Honshuu, after dark. There were no taxis in sight but the one track-one unheated station hut had a phone box!



Sato-san, the owner of Appi Rocky Inn came to our rescue in his big pick up truck. We got offered our original apartment booking, but in his generous persuasion otherwise (a benefit of off season travel), we bedded down in the "grade up". Sato-mama, his mum, in contrast knew absolutely no English but it didn't stop P2 from an exchange, as Mama knew the word photo as much as him.



Finally we got down to business - washing laundry in the "lundry", passing the "loker" storage, and preparing the first meal in ages with the traveling pantry weighing my pack down a kilo or more.

Only once I'd gotten the hang of a gas stovetop with all-Kanji instructions.



Good humoured mama looked on periodically in between Japanese TV, and later hastened us to bed once contingencies were done.



Toasty warm, when morning revealed itself, it was hard to fathom the roof high snow, with just 'peeking holes' through the houses doors. We stoked the stomach boiler, packed up, and headed to Appi for gear hire



Certain to keep our snow shoe route planning quiet this time, we were offered (for about 15NZD) an entry to a kiddies / family area. Hardly likely to occupy over 30 minutes, and with only one day gear hire options available, it was nearly a case of Akakura again.



Yet, a few minutes later, the lady offered us free access to the mini course, and replied to my query "can we go elsewhere?" (not the ski courses) affirmatively. License to walk!



After the first 700m of the oblong circuit, we deviated to our right and headed up through the forest. The odd pink tree ribbon guided us in the powdery snow, crossing occasionally XC ski or skidoo tracks. Snow fell fairly persistently, adding a mystique to the winter scene. P2 tried several times to get the birds attention with his Canon, but sadly she'd stopped twittering and was headed down the hill towards the hideously coloured yellow hotel resort



Back at our temporary home, our invite for a private onsen was irresistible, mama presenting two towels. As the good women we both were, she delivered a banana milk shake unprompted, and I produced us a salty miso broth of this n that before again our drop off in Sato's pick up.



The snow kept falling. The train appeared. I sighed, relieved - this weather snowed me in, in Myoko a few years before. JR rail is fantastic!



Whizzing down to Tokyo from Morioka, our Appi kogen connection, probably at around 180 plus kph, makes easy work of Honshuu travel. The usual train station process ensued and by 9pm we'd downed a sake each, nibbled on nibbles, and were about to partake in what the Japanese do best. Cheap, healthy, hearty noodle bowl combinations at our local ramen place opposite Toyocho.



As luck had it, from our trip 13 months before, we struck the same employee whom simplified the vending machine ordering system for us. This place works hard for their dough, offering enthusiastic 'irrashaimase' or 'arigatoo' for each and every customer and it shows.

On the eve of our departure, casting our eyes out of the East 21 hotel, from our cheap Western bathroom sized quarters, the eyelids drooping as we gaze at the Tokyo Sky tree view, yet again, we plan to return someday soon.

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