A quick, impromptu trip to Fukuoka

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In late November we had a little getaway to Fukuoka. This blog is quite overdue so some of the subtleties of the trip will be lost. Better late than never, I suppose.

The flight from Incheon to Fukuoka took only about one hour, and the Fukuoka airport is right in the center of town, which makes it the perfect weekend escape for those living in Korea. The city is compact and the subway system is quite effective so a 3 day weekend is really all you need to get a good feel for the city. Most importantly, this is one of the most strolling-friendly cities I’ve ever been to. Looking at a map you may think that to get from point A to point B is several subway stops away, but in reality the subway stops are so close together that many points of interest in Fukuoka are easily reached on foot.

It only took us about 20 minutes to get from the airport to our hostel in Hakata. After checking in, we went for an evening stroll in the Hakata region, which is a lively downtown area of Fukuoka. Living in Korea has made me forget how much graffiti can really contribute to the soul of a city. As lame as that may sound, seeing graffiti in Fukuoka made me quite happy, especially knowing that the city has embraced it and even deemed it as art. That same evening we went in search of Hakata ramen, which is the specially ramen in Fukuoka. Starving, we settled on a small ramen house and ordered two bowls. I am known to be a great exaggerator but this was the best ramen I have ever had. Simple and yet oh-so flavorful, I’ll never forget it.

The following day we picked up a map and decided to have a full day of taking in the sights of Fukuoka. The weather was quite enjoyable, especially when compared to freezing Seoul. We were so ecstatic at the 55 degree weather that we spent the entire weekend in T-shirts. This city is amazingly beautiful and vivacious in the Fall. The temple and shrine grounds were glowing from the multicolored trees. Walking Fukuoka was a pleasure. One of my favorite things about Japan is the relative ease with which the growing, industrious city incorporates centuries-old temples and shrines. There never appears to be a conflict in the city—temples have their rightful place amidst the skyscrapers. I’m proud to say we did everything we wanted to in Fukuoka without feeling horribly overwhelmed.

1. Jotenji Temple: A Zen temple founded in 1241 and considered to be the place where udon and soba noodles were first made. As most Zen temples are, Jotenji seems to lift your spirits as soon as you walk through the gates. The simple wooden building and narrow walkways force you to focus on the simplicity of the grounds and notice things you might otherwise have missed. At the entrance, there are three statues/monuments: one is to commemorate the origin of soba and udon noodles, and the other two are to honor individuals.

2. Tochoji Temple: The oldest temple Fukuoka, founded by Kobadaishi in 806, is most known for the Big Buddha—the largest wooden statue of Kannon, Goddess of Mercy in Japan. At 11 meters and 31 tons, this statue is most definitely impressive. The most remarkable part of the hall that houses the statue is the short tunnel that runs underneath the statue. Portions of the tunnel are pitch black, and you must guide yourself along the walls. Certain other areas are dimly lit, showcasing old paintings depicting gruesome, dreary scenes. To exit, you must once again guide yourself out through absolute darkness. Tochoji is also reputed to house the remains of the Samurai that inspired the movie “The Last Samurai.”

3. Shofukuji Temple: Shofukuji is the oldest Zen temple in Japan, built in 1195 by Zen master Yosai. The temple maintains the traditional Zen layout and is still a functioning temple. The large temple grounds, coupled with gorgeous Fall colors, made this my favorite temple in Fukuoka. Again, it is built in typical Japanese temple style—simple wooden architecture, sparse layout of greenery, tranquil pond and bridge. The small “forest” in the center of the temple grounds added character to the temple. The Hakata wall, built in the 16th century, still outlines the temple grounds.

4. Genjuan: A short walk from Shofukuji is Genjuan, originally built in 1336 at a different location but moved to its current location in 1646. A small temple with meticulously raked rock gardens and clusters of kneeling bamboo shoots. Genjuan wasn’t originally on our list of sights to see, but as you walk from temple to temple you pass “off the beaten path” temples and shrines that weren’t popular enough to make it on anyone’s “must see” list.

5. Nakagawa River (I think that’s the name): A river runs through part of Fukuoka in the Hakata region. Along the river are tall buildings, food stalls, and small markets. Also on display are some of the “floats” used in an annual festival. These are not your traditional float: they appear to be made from heavy wood and are meant to be carried by several people. There are also several temple-like structures on the grounds, and women can be seen strolling in traditional clothing.

6. Canal City: A short walk along the river will bring you to Canal City, a large shopping mall with an artificial canal running through it. I am not much of a shopper, so this didn’t impress me much, but it’s in the center of town and worth checking out if you’re nearby.

7. Yatai: A series of food stalls lining a section of the river. Come here at night when the food venders are out. On the night we went the alleyway was so packed with hungry locals it was difficult to walk. We were told to come for the ramen, but finding a place to sit was difficult. After being told “for Japanese only” at one food stall, we found another one that was much more hospitable. We ordered two bowls of ramen and a beef skewer, the latter of which was mouthwateringly delightful. The ramen was great Hakata-style ramen, but the ramen from the first night still cannot be beat.

8. Fukuoka Tower: A beautifully lit 234 meter tall tower in the heart of the city with spectacular views. I’m a fan of nighttime views from skyscrapers, so this was a must see for me. The observation area is impressive and offers 360 degree views of the city. There is also a bar a few levels down from the observatory. A bit overpriced, but they’re charging more for the experience than the drink itself. Sipping a dry martini while overlooking a city in lights was the perfect end to a very long day of wandering around.

9. Fukuoka Castle: Located inside Maizuru Park and quite close to Nakagawa River, this castle was built in the 16th century. At the time we were there, no other visitors seemed to walk the grounds of the castle. There is nothing particularly exciting about this site, other than the large stone ruins of the castle, and the gorgeous park grounds.

10. Dazaifu: 30 minutes by train southeast of Fukuoka proper is Dazaifu, a city with many beautiful temples and ruins. There are ample tourist maps at most corners and it is quite easy to find your way from one site to another. The entire city of Dazaifu is so charming. Small, quiet, and kind—I highly recommend a visit here for those visiting Fukuoka.
- Komyozenji temple: The highlight of our trip to Dazaifu was Komyozenji, a Zen temple most famous for the garden which has 15 stones tracing the Chinese character for “light” and a garden with white sand and lichen. Take off your shoes at the entrance and walk the wooden pathways inside and out the temple building. The walkways bring you to the garden, where people can be seen meditating, relaxing, and always smiling. Again, Fall leaves made this scene picturesque, as I’m sure Spring scenery will as well.
- Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine: An extremely important shrine to the Shinto faith, this is the place to worship the god of learning. For this reason, many college students make the trip to Dazaifu before big exams. The area around the shrine was lit up by flower stands, ponds, traditional red bridges, and ample greenery.
- Kanzeonji Temple: Kanzeonji is home to the oldest bell in Japan, as well as Buddhist statues that are on display in a hall on temple grounds.
- Dazaifu Government Building Ruins: Over a period of 500 years, this site was known as the Imperial Court. The ruins are sparse, but walking the large, flat area makes for a pleasant stroll. In a nearby exhibition hall you can check out various things excavated from the ruins of this site.

Fukuoka exceeded my expectations! A pleasant, easily navigable city with charm of old and new, Fukuoka makes for a wonderful long weekend getaway.

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