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Published: July 17th 2008
Kuta sunset.
Its interesting that Asian people in general do not sunbath, wear swimsuits (rarely a bikini) or swim in the ocean. Lots of people on the beach at sunset but fully clothed.My solo adventure in Indonesia has been fantastic. After saying goodbyes to Robin in Singapore I flew into Bali staying for a few days in Kuta to orient myself and get use to being alone. First impressions of Bali are not great and will be confirmed when I return later. It is looking kind of tired and worn out, over developed and over-run. More about that later.
Took the slow boat over the the next island of Lombok. Very different from Bali - more Indonesian - headed to the 3 Gili islands where I stayed for 8 days mostly on Trewangan. Promoted as having great coral and dive sites I was looking forward to some good snorkelling. Alas. While I saw some good patches here and there it was mostly dead. Either spoiled from dynamite fishing in the recent past, cyanide fishing, indiscriminate anchoring and other shameful human actions. Action is being taken to restore what was lost but I fear the pressures from tourism may defeat these efforts that take so long.
So the quest to find good coral takes me on a boat trip 400km east to Komodo and Rinca islands. Rinca has all the dragons and
Kuta temple
If you like temples you will love Bali. There is one around every corner. very professional guides to show you around without getting eaten. The Komodo Dragons truly are phenomenal creatures. One little nip or scratch and you or their favorite food the buffalo is dead from blood poisoning in about two weeks. Apparently an agonizing and gruesome thing to watch.
So the coral shangrila was found off Komodo Island. Score cards registered 10 across. Coral/Fish/Water quality. I was speachless for days after. Better than anything I have ever seen. Oh I am a lucky man.
I have to tell you about the boat. 4 days, 12 passengers on this old fishing trawler. NO GPS, no radio, no life jackets, no lifeboat, no muffler on the engine, straight hole toilet, no galley (but surprisingly good meals produced on the deck floor and hibachi). Of coarse we all survived and will probably remember the trip for the rest of our lives. It ended in Labuanbajo on Flores Island, A place I would go back to in a shot. Flew back to Bali to finish out the time left on my 30 day visa.
I had heard the best snorkelling in Bali was in Amed which where I headed. Spent a few days
Kuta Shopping mecca
Bars, clubs and shopping, shopping, shopping. That is Kuta. Good surfing I hear if you are a surfer. splashing about finding nothing worth mentioning other than a few great massages. Headed to Lovina Beach, again very dissaponted. dirty beach, polluted water, appalling dolphin chasing tours for tourists. All kinds of things that were rather upsetting. I ran into an interesting couple of like minds(Norbert and Karin)from Australia . We stoked each other up to do a little political activism on behalf of the planet and Bali. Maybe we did some good. We talked to a few local mayors and business leaders about the enviromental future they were facing if policies were not implimented.
I did end up finding some decent coral at the extreme west end of Bali at Menangan National Park.
All in all I would love to go back to Indonesia and explore some more. Incredible country. Very cheap once you get there.
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Elizabeth
non-member comment
Good to hear from you, Allan
I really enjoyed reading your Indonesia chapter. Sending lots of love e