Meditation in a Country Mecca Bound

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Since my first attempt at learning some type of meditation failed, I jumped at the chance to take a 10-day Vipassana course in Java. This wasn't the most likely place, as Indonesia has the largest Muslim population in the world. However, the course was not secular, and there seemed to be a variety of religions represented (I was shocked to learn that Indonesians must choose one of five religions that is than printed on their ID card, and atheist is not an option). Anyhow, I had a light dinner after checking-in, and then the actual course began.

The first part of the course was accepting terms that I had known about before arriving. I practiced "sila" or morality, which was done by adopting 5 precepts: abstain from killing, stealing, sexual activity, telling lies, and taking intoxicants. This was easy enough apart from the killing, but I didn't see those ants until it was too late. I was to discontinue the practice of any rites, rituals, mantras, etc. which was no problem as I have none. Talking and gesturing were not allowed to give the sense of isolation, and even with men and women separated, there was to be no physical contact. Finally, you could not have any form of entertainment or exercise (apart from walking in a small loop outside). This was hard for me since I have come to rely on books, internet, and my Ipod to keep me somewhat attached to my former lifestyle.

I'll take a minute to describe the daily schedule, before I go into detail pertaining to the actual technique. Mornings begin with a bell (the same bell that starts and stops all these different segments) at 4am followed by meditation from 4:30-6:30am. Then you have a break until 8 at which time you eat breakfast and can shower or do laundry. Then the first of three hour-long group meditation periods begins, setting your mind up for 2 more hours of meditation. Finally, it's 11 am and time for lunch. One o'clock is marked with a "bong" and you sit for 1.5 hours into 1 hour group into 1.5 hours more. Five o'clock is time for a small snack and tea (oh yeah, there is no dinner), and by six, you're starting your last hour of group. Then you get to watch discourses with S.N. Goenka (the leader of this whole operation). About a half hour of meditation wraps up the day, and you're in bed before 9:30pm.

Day 1 through 4 were spent practicing "samadhi" to concentrate and control the mind. To accomplish this, I was to observe respiration and sensations that occurred in the region surrounding my nose and upper lip. This was then narrowed down to just a small triangle at the base of the nostrils and above the lip. I know what you're thinking, but this wasn't all we did. You also observe how much your mind wandered without your having any idea about it. Had I been transcribing what was going on in my head it might read something like this: Breath comes in...tickling sensation on lip...breath goes out...I could really go for some Aggie's pizza...remember those water polo goals we built for the pool..."Ramble On" opener Phish Alpine '98..."Brain, you're supposed to be observing respiration and sensations." As time went on, my thoughts became somewhat more logical and I was also able to perform the assigned task for longer than a few fleeting moments. There were a few people who left on day 2, including the only other male westerner (as far as I was concerned, my determination to stay the entire 10 days was an achievement in itself, as it would have been very easy for me to call it quits at anytime).

On day 5 the actual practice of "vipassana" began to achieve "panna" or wisdom. This meant that I no longer trained my focus on one small area, rather I was to observe sensations throughout the body. It also meant that during those group sittings, I could not open my eyes, hands, or legs, which was extremely difficult and painful at times. "Part by part"**, and covering my entire body, I would observe a sensation and then move on. We were to "remain perfectly equanimous, neither craving desirable sensations to continue nor wishing undesirable sensations to stop," knowing that everything is "aniche" or impermanent. Both aware and equanimous, I continued to sweep from "head to feet and feet to head" eventually reaching a point where I could feel subtle sensations everywhere and "free-flow" through the body. I actually still have a few hazy areas to work on, but I felt pretty good about my progress. Eventually I should be able to penetrate within the body as well, but I'll believe it when it happens.

**note: these quotes are from tapes of S.N. Goenka that were played at the beginning and ending of meditation sessions, spoken in a soothing voice. They also included chanting that was like the ...anyone who has done a Vipassana course will get a flashback and a laugh

I've purposely written about this experience in a bit of a mocking fashion because the manner in which the course is run is deserving of this, but I believe that the actual technique is quite beneficial. This technique is supposedly the teachings (or "Dhamma") that Siddhattha Gautama, the Buddha (which just means enlightened person and is not limited to one person) from India and whom many Buddhists are devout, taught as the path to enlightenment. The point being that the outside world is perceived by our senses causing sensations on the body. We then react to these sensations with craving or aversion, and this is the root of misery and unhappiness we experience in our lives. By observing sensations on the body during meditation, and not favoring a particular sensation rather remaining indifferent to each and continuing on, one trains the mind not to get too excited about this or that allowing you to avoid attachment, craving, hatred, etc. With wisdom and the practice of "metta" or good thoughts, traits like tolerance, generosity, and selflessness begin to take form, and perhaps if you're lucky you can reach enlightenment. Do I expect you to buy it? Of course not. I think many explanations given overstepped their bounds, and a lot of it is just hard for me to accept, but I was very glad I didn't leave all the times I wanted to because I gained a lot from the whole experience.

I'll leave you with an anecdote involving our guru (a Malaysian who spoke some English, but not fluent). During the lunch break, students are able to sign-up to ask the teacher questions about their meditation or the technique. My friend, having come to this retreat thinking meditation was a bit like magic, took advantage of this opportunity.

"Teacher, is there such thing as ghosts?"

After a moment of thought, either searching his bank of wisdom or perhaps what his training had taught him for such crackpot questions, he replied "There are no ghosts, it is all in your head. There are only sensations."

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Comments

[Jim]

With a cool and equanimous mind....
Interesting experience innit? though like you it seems I have no real desire to sit for 2 hours a day. The technique can be useful at times, but is not the final word on the human condition, I do not think there is one, and I am glad of that. Love to chat about the experience with you, and hear your stories since I saw you last. Peace Jim