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Published: October 5th 2005
Galungan Decorations
Every house on the Island has one of these giant decorations. They symbolise dragons, heads buried in the earth, tails following on behind.ap·pre·hen·sion (ăp'rĭ-hĕn'shən) pronunciation
n.
1. Fearful or uneasy anticipation of the future; dread.
2. The act of seizing or capturing; arrest.
3. The ability to apprehend or understand; understanding.
1. Fearful or uneasy anticipation of the future; dread. (well not dread - too strong)
2005 October 1st - I was sitting in another crumbling hostel in Kuala Lumpur, killing a day or two with movies and shopping, waiting for my flight to Bali. In Kuta, Bali's main tourist center Islamic extremists were carrying out suicide bombings. 27 people died as a result, and hundreds were injured, many seriously.
I had a ticket to fly to Bali on Monday 3rd October, not much time to make a decision and a tough one as well. I spent Sunday researching, reading the reports, scouring the forums, and trying to make sense of the British governments official advice.
People still intending in the immediate future to travel to Bali should review thoroughly information on the local situation, and ensure they are taking full precautions and following local advice.
Thanks for the clear and concise advice British Foreign Office, as ever proving to be just about useless to nearly everyone concerned. Let's analyse it a little. Full precautions? - bullet proof vests, bomb shelters, flying out immediately? Just what exactly do they mean? Local advice? How is that useful for the vast numbers of people that have tickets scheduled for the following days and weeks? You have to be local to follow local advice - does that mean come and then follow the advice?
The FCO could make things a lot more useful by breaking it down in to three categories of advice: for those in the location, for those booked to arrive in the following weeks, for those thinking of travelling. Advice could be given along the lines of “leave, cancel, don't book” or “stay, come, book” - and all levels in between.
2. The act of seizing or capturing; arrest. (Well - I made my decision, seized my ticket so to speak)
Over the few days I decided to go to Bali, and fly over to Lombok, wait for the situation to calm down, the media circus to depart and then head back
to Bali and explore. Good plan. One slight problem - I arrived in Bali, swiftly went through immigration and customs, one of only a handful of westerners on the flight. Headed over to national departures and found all the flights to Lombok booked. Ferry? Outrageous quotes from the taxi touts in the airport sent me out of the gates and searching for a bus or bemo (minivan) that would take me to Denpaser (the capital) and then on to Padangbia the ferry terminal. On the way I met Tim. Tim was staying in Ubud, had been there for a month, researching the local artisans, looking for designs to use in connection with his pearl farming business. Ubud sounded nice, and so I decided to look around. I'm glad I did. Apart from the irritating touts, the Balinese are genuinely friendly peaceful people, very connected to their family and Hindu beliefs. They are angry - once again crazies from Java have come over killed, maimed and tried to destroy their livelihoods, but there is an air of assurance that although the numbers of tourists will decrease enough will still come. They are probably right, the Australians that I've met love the
island, they've said that it won't stop them coming back, and that accounts for the majority of the tourists here.
3. The ability to apprehend or understand; understanding. So I've had a quiet few days, Ubud is beautiful, everyone here is celebrating Galungan a celebration where entire families visit the family temple, the local temples, construct giant bamboo and palm leaf dragons at every house (symbolic), leaving offerings for many gods and spirits. Families live generally in compounds, when a son takes a wife she leaves her family to live with her husbands family, the houses surround the family temple, and in the rural areas, pigs, chickens, ducks and rice paddies surround the compound. Although Bali is well developed leaving any of the major roads soon leads to rural villages and lifestyles.
Ubud itself is famous as the artistic capital of Bali, the streets are lined with galleries and art shops, the local art scene is varied interesting and some of the most lovely carvings, paintings and batiks can be bought for what seem very cheap prices. For lack of anywhere to put anything (I have no place to call home) I haven't purchased anything - when
one day I do settle down, I'll kick myself for all the things that I've seen and loved and walked away from, but until then I keep my backpack light.
Another famous art form Ubud is famous for is dancing, traditional dances are performed at many temples everyday. The form is very similar to the dances of the Thai Apsaras, exagerated eye movements, difficult poses, distinct control. The dance I saw was at night lit by candles and fire and accompanied by an accapela (spell) group of musicians, rhythmic movements and chants, scales and melodies that sounded alien to my ear, combined with the dancing to provide an experience that I won't forget. The performance culminated with a dancer dressed as a horse cavorting through piles of flaming coconuts, till they died down to nothing but embers.
Cycling around the local hills and country side it's striking how many people smile, say hello and wish you well, genuinely, no strings attached. The kids love being photographed and really play up for the camera, especially if you show them the photos on the back of a digital camera. The country side is beautiful, the rice paddies peaceful and the
Avian Flu Carriers
This will be the next blow no doubt... constant sound of running water lends an atmosphere of tranquillity. I'll be back one day, but for now I spend another afternoon here and head to the Gili Islands tomorrow, assuming I can get to the ferry port. I plan to visit the monkeys of Monkey Forest Sanctuary - aggressive little beast by all accounts...
After forward. The 2002 bombs killed 202 people and injured hundreds more, Bali's tourist industry was decimated. 2005 - 26 dead, hundreds injured, I hope that Bali can weather this blow and keep the island as it is now; thriving due to it's beauty, friendliness, beaches, arts and culture.
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Matt
Matt W
Hey bro.
Not sure about this - didn't want to say it'd been backed up to server cos she didn't say if she saved then deleted. http://www.travelblog.org/Forum/Threads/959-1.html Sounds like it was worth going to Bali, I'm so envious still. My friend went over summer and she says they really appreciate the tourists who still come despite negative press. Wow I look like one of those people who comment on the site!!! "Take care baby bear!" Speak soon.