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Published: January 26th 2009
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View from Siedeman Hotel
Susan and I spent a day and night looking at this view with no one else around Susan left two days ago and I know that she is grateful for her time here, but she misses Bali dearly. Getting up early and going for a bike ride followed by a walk on the Sanur beach path was one of her favorite things to do here. So, this morning I got early and did the same figuring I could give her and you all a morning beach report from Sanur Bali.
The Sun is about 15 degrees off the horizon and it is a yellow orange mix. There is a hazy lavendar purple haze from which it is emerging. Further to the south from where we get our weather, the sky is a cerullean blue. The tide is way out and it is the lowest I've seen it since we have been here. Even Hyatt Reef is exposed and I wonder if I could almost walk out to the surf break. Wyan's friend, Nyoman is lying on a bench at the corner and he smiles warmly and offers a 'Selamat Paggi...Appa Kebar" I reply with my best 'Baik, Baik' and he asks if I will surf. I tell him yes, at 10:00....... Where's Mommi? he inquires. The beach
Girls scheming
Kadec, Anna, Susan and Nancy planning a surprise birthday party for Jack boys have a thing for Susan and call her Mommi. 'She's gone home I tell him and he moans 'no'. She'll be back I reassure him.
I take a left at the corner and walk north along the brick beach path. I watch the fisherman up to their waists and shoulders way off shore. All I can really see are their conical hats. Like the one I'm wearing in the picture except their's is larger because they didn't get ripped off by Johnny Walker like I did. There is a drumbeat of bass from the waves breaking way out on the reef. There is a new swell arriving. The alto is carried by the myriad songbirds who sound particularly loud when I walk under the aged trees at the Hyatt Hotel.
I smile when I go by Ana's shop and think of her bawdy and raucous tales of life here in Sanur and how quickly she opened her heart to us and especially Susan.
Shopkeepers are starting to arrive and I hear the swoosh of their handmade brooms as they sweep the beach sand off the path in front of their shops. I hear a riiinnng, riiing,
two cool and groovy guys
Jack and me in our conical hats behind me and I move to the left. A small boy, maybe 4 years old rides by with his older brother and father each on his bicycle. The clop clop of heavy running footsteps is coming from up ahead. Two unsmiling Northern Europeans come clogging by sweating and gasping for breath. They are among the few I pass who are not smiling.
The air is thick with humidity and I can tell it is going to be really hot later. I'm sweating already and it is not yet 7:00 AM. The air's scent is a mix of salt from the ocean and sweeter smells that are harder to identify. Bananas perhaps? Orange or lemon? These are followed by more spicy scents too. I think there is the scent of hot chili in the air, but maybe that is just some taste from eating Ana's leftover gado gado for dinner last night.
Before heading home, I go sit on the Balet at the Sanur corner. If I sit way at the back, I can keep the sun out of my face. It is after 7:00 now and the beach is much more alive. Small children are laughing loudly while
they play and splash in the water with their parents. Lots more fisherman are out. Boat owners are fiddling with motors and anchor lines. I hear more and more of the vowel laden Indonesian being spoken and once again I commit to learning the language. I can't imagine how warm and welcoming the Balinese would be if you could talk to them.
When I approach the 'Corner Girls" who give massages they all wave, smile, and shout hello. Where is Susan? they ask. When will she be back? they want to know. Soon I tell them. Soon.
I'm feeling pretty connected and dialed into the neighborhood. As I round the corner at the swatstika circle about 50 moped come swooping down the street from my right. I don't hesitiate a bit and make a seamless transition into the herd. Mopeds are in front, behind, to my left and my right as we cruise down the street and I make a left into the driveway.
I'll post pictures to this blog, but right now I have to do an 'ab' workout with Nancy.. Actually, I'll post pics if nancy's workout doesn't kill me first
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Susan
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a sight to remember
Oh Mike, Thanks for "painting" one of my most favorite places in Bali for me and everyone else. Your words make it even easier to recall the scene, and warms my cold bones back here in NY. Tell them on the corner for me, that I'll be back, just not tomorrow.