Surf Report from Bali

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I graduated from college in 1974 and I planned all Summer for a trip to the North Shore of Oahu. I still recall a line from a Surfer Magazine from that time that went something like, "No matter if you are the hottest thing back home, it will take you at least two weeks to get your sea legs on the North Shore."

Well I certainly don't consider myself the hottest thing back home, but it has taken two weeks to get my sea legs here in Bali. The waves have more power and more speed than I am used to. Take offs are often done under the lip and a turn as you get to your feet (not after) is usually required. The wave might have a soft section but then it might hit a shallow spot in the reef and all of a sudden it has spread out thirty yards in front of you. Straightening out can be a twenty minute sentence of paddling to get off the shallow reef. Your duck diving becomes impeccable.

Today we surfed Nusa Dua. There was no swell at all here in Sanur, so I borrowed a friend of a friend's 7'1" figuring I would be riding some 2-3 foot waves there. Nusa Dua is a beautiful beach surrounded by a reef. The beach faces East and the swell comes from the south so it is a right. You take a boat from the beach out to the break which is about 500 yards off shore. It costs $3.00. They drop you off outside the lineup and you paddle into it.

Can you recall ever going to a party where you didn't really know anyone? Maybe you were visiting a distant relative and they took you to some affair and you didn't know anyone? Maybe it was outside your usual circle so you weren't wearing the same clothes as every one else at the affair. Perhaps too, everyone was much younger than you? Maybe better looking; more fit? You know that anxiety in the pit of your stomach when you walk into that situation? Okay, now imagine you are going to compete with everyone else there for a limited amount of shrimp cocktail.

That is kind of what it was like paddling into Nusa Dua today. We paddled out at noon and the sky was cloudless. It was searingly hot out. Last week I surfed in the middle of the day and got heat stroke. I am ashamed to admit this, but I bought one of those surf hats. yes, it true. I tried a baseball hat with a clip and the first duck dive under a wave of the first day, ripped it off my head and I never even saw it after that. So imagine this. I don't have pictures to show you , but I have my hat on, my rash guard on, zinc oxide all over my face, earplugs in, contacts on. The only thing missing were the booties. I do have boundaries. Oh. Jack and I are the two oldest people in the lineup by about 25 years.

Oh and the waves I thought would be 2 feet? Well there were 6 foot and possibly bigger sets. If waves that big come to RI, they wind up being shown as the lead story on Channel 10 news. Anyway, on my third or fourth wave, I was taking off fairly deep on a set wave and as I made my first bottom turn, I heard some guy hoot me on. At first I thought, 'wow cool.' but then I realized that he was only hooting because he was surprised I could even get to my feet.

People keep asking for surf photos. I can't offer them. The waves break too far out. Sorry

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Comments

[janice Causey]

got the picture
aloha Mike and gang you guys must of look like the senior citizens surf team of USA. hee hee and so you did it, wow, I would of been sooo freakin out and such but you just gotta go beyond it, hee hee kudos and a mahalo high to you and your cronies. I m soo proud of you Mike, you are fearless, dont take chances and come back all safe, great weather on the east coast, ice, 1 degrees out no heat stroke, tongue frozen to the truck, like 8 inches of snow now and snowing and so gonna get a warm snap, 20 degrees. so gonna have my shoulder replacement on feb 12 so say some kudos prayers for me, scared shitless but cannot even paddle now or hardly raise my right, yes my right hand and arm. miss ya keep the experience going, hugs, andmahalo and aloha , Janice

[Gerre]

OMG!!!!
Mike you are killing us. We are laughing out loud at the internet joint! Dont stop now!!!! Hi to you all!

[buck]

dress code
a hat in the line up is acceptable if worn correctly. Colored zinc may make you look younger. Rash guards should not match your baggies. booties may help, but NEVER wear all accessories at one time. File photos may have to do. Spiritual surfing at its best.