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Published: February 26th 2013
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We took a bus and a bus and a ferry to get to Lovina, and it dropped us off just when we'd been told it would. But due to the time differnce, 4:30am felt like 3:30am. Only Indomart was open. We all (6 of us, including myself and the Dutchman) sat on a curb to decide what to do. Luckily for us, a man came by on a motorbike and called a friend who had a hotel nearby. Within half an hour we were all tucked into clean beds and sound asleep.
The Dutchman and I made our way to the hotel on the beach I'd already made a reservation at. Since it's not busy season we were hoping he could get a room, too. We were in luck--there was an opening and it was even in one of the budget rooms! Clean and comfortable and a 20 second walk to the dining room overlooking the black sand beach. I can't see the beach from my room, but I can hear the waves crashing on the beach from my patio. I love my black-sand-beach bungalow in Bali, baby.
We spent the day just chatting with each other, other guests,
and the owner. A homestay is a bit different from a hotel in that you're actually staying at their home--they've just built some very nice guest quarters and charge you for it. But it's a much more personal experience because you really get to know local people and learn about the culture. We enjoyed the sights and smells of the Bali Sea, listening to the waves get louder as they crashed against the shore. Children played on the black sand, adults lounged and drank beer. Great vibes all around.
I ate amazing food in Lovina at my homestay. One night it was grilled fish in a banana leaf with a side of veggies. Another night it was fish and coconut skewers. And another fish satay. Fresh juices abounded for each meal and breakfast was enjoyed under palm trees.
The second day, the Dutchman and I rented a motorbike (the best way to get around Bali) and rode east. We headed to the second largest city, Singaraja. Not seeing much there to visit (in our opinion) we kept going along the coastal highway.
We finally made it to Meduwe Karang Temple, famous for the Dutch influenced bicycle carving
on the temple itself. I guess art really does imitate life. Built in 1880, it's the most famous temple in northern Bali and well worth the stop.
We went back to Lovina (west of our homestay) for lunch and to see the beach and the famous dolphin statues. Once the pride and joy of this town, I'm sure, they're in need of some love as the dolphins look like they got into a barfight and lost.
Back at the homestay I made friends with a retired Danish couple who've been coming to Bali every year for 16 years. They always stay at the same two places (one in Lovina and one in Ubud), each for about a month, so they're actual friends with the owners. We laughed when the said they did the math and if they stayed in Bali for three months, their yearly expenses would be less than they are only staying two months! They then told me the story of how our homestay's owner used to be a simple fisherman, but on the advice from a traveler, he slowly built up his home into the glory that it is today, one bungalow at a time.
Playing the xylophone
It requires two mallets and they must be 5 pitches apart. At night, when the wind blows gently, and the eating is done, it's great to sit back and relax and watch the owner with his young grandsons, playing music together. They're a full-on band. He plays the Balinese xylophone, the youngest the cymbals, and the middle child on the drums. It's spontaneous, unplanned, fun music. They're a family here and we're their guests. Listening to the music just makes one feel free.
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