Gods and goddessess

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Rajah Banerjee - from the exterior a pukkah sahib, Cambridge educated, eccentrically dressed, an inheritor of social class and property, a man of influence with an interior spirit of democracy and a firm belief in 'partnership not ownership.' The world famous Makaibari Tea Farm, producer of exquisite Darjeeling Tea, supplier to the Beijing Olympics, operates on strict organic, permaculture principles.

I stirred the thought that his grandfather and mine might have also shared a cuppa of the superb silver tip first blend which we were sharing together. We talked of cabbages and kings, methane-fired burners to Bill Mollison. Regarding environmentalists he opined that it was better not to meet your idols in person. A well-respected man of convictions and true ideals can be a cantankerous individual.

Sustainability being key, Rajah has ensured that local women have partnership stakes in running the farm and having been thwarted by the government in his attempt to pass over the land rights to the people he has encouraged the building of bedrooms and bathrooms to promote rural homestays as one of the newer initiatives providing year long income to the families.

I can see myself volunteering here, an opportunity to help the community in which my grandparents lived. A soft option maybe, compared to the work with street kids at Sealdah Train Station in Kolkata. An opportunity filled with bed lice, cockroaches and mosquitoes we were reliably informed by fellow travellers Rachel and David. You also received a rapid immersion into street Hinid, Rachel's command being truly formidably demonstrated whilst waiting on the very same station for our luxury overnighter to New Jalpaiguri.

Mingi Lamu Sherpa - a hardworking municipal worker in Kurseong. A fierce proponent of Gorkhaland, a proud supporter of women's empowerment. Mingi has been working on developing a women's group who will produce silkscreen prints for sale from traditional Nepali designs. She has visited a similar establishment in Kalimpong observing their techniques and operation. Mingi fulfils her duties and visits the 21 teachers fasting for Gorkhaland. She supervises the keep of two of the village's poorer families. They visit and sit on the lawn, Roshni and her grandmother Mankumari, determined that her granddaughter living with mental illness should display exquisite manners held together with a threadbare shawl. Graciously they accept our assistance although we know the paltry sum will go little distance when their roof is washed away with the next monsoon rains. New blankets, should however keep out some of the winter cold. Their hut, a minor stop on the milkman's round down the boulder-strewn path.

Mingi -chutney maker extraordinaire. Grinding the coriander, onion and tomato together on the stone slab. A fine emerald concoction, bright and pungent.

A tale told by our guide Veeru after viewing Krishna's chariot markings outside Rasgir. Jarasandh had imprisoned more than 500 kings and because of his strange birth it was almost impossible to kill him. Jarasandh had been born to two wives, one half from each. Midwives, horrified, had left these pieces in the forest but Jara, a demoness, located these pieces and upon being placed in the same basket joined together and sprung up as a boy child. His father had taken him back and raised him and in turn he became king. Bhim, who he deemed a worthy opponent, finally defeated him by Krishna showing him how to kill him. He picked up a twig and ripped it in half lengthwise and so Bhim tore him apart and threw the two parts far away from each other so they could not join back again.

Omprakash Kukki - an amateur archaeologist hails from the Bundi region of Rajasthan. This unassuming man qualifies for inclusion in this piece. A bundle of enthusiasm he arrived at the chaishop where we had agreed to meet on his scooter clutching a plastic bag which I rightly assumed had photos and articles of his inclusion in archaeological publications.

We were lucky to have seen some of the rock paintings he had discovered on his rambles around the valleys of Bundi. He talked to us and at us about his love of discovery, his learning which had taken place at Delhi Museum and subsequently with visiting archaeologists to the region. He spoke confidently of paleolithic and mesolithic paintings, of arrow heads and other implements, of upcoming lectures he was to give. "I am just a sweet maker, ' he said, "merely a shopkeeper with an interest. No-one knew about me, but now I am famous. You can google 'Kukki Bundi' and read all about me!" Since he was a young man he has been collecting and keeping artefacts.

We talked about how difficult it was to spot these things. But Kukki felt he had been given a gift by 'god' and he had 'the eye' to see what others may miss. Kukki had campaigned to stop the implementation of a dam which would flood many of the cliff overhangs where these paintings lie. Kukki, an ordinary man with an extraordinary passion.

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Photos

Rajah Bannerjee
Talking about the Makaibari tea estate

Mingi
with family

Comments

[jacki marshall]

Meryl....you MISSED your calling...
Go Girl.....you ARE a WRITER.......you MUST write....this is your CALLING. I have so enjoyed your blog.....and I have always wanted to go to India.....one of the few places on my wish list. How about doing micro credit loans in this tea region. Are there CBO's Communtiy Based Women's Groups....village banking groups. If so you have a FIT. Do check out our web site h3o.org when you have a chance. I am so excited for you, your Mum and Graham. I was in England snowed in for three weeks......and snowed in now in Charlotte....but it is GOOD as I am able to focus on shit i avoided. John Batten and h3o have done 97 loans with 100% success repayment. We are now looking to move to Phase 11...community infrastructure projects that are sustainable, for profit, short lead time to profitability, ripple effect in teh economy of the community. It is a LOAN.....with stakeholder contribution....somethimes locall goverment. It would be so cool if you wanted to do that in a section of India. One of h3o team is from India....Jose Xavier....seee him on our web site. Lot is going on.....and I just had to say this.....how about JB, JM and MD partering for the HIGHER GOOD????? Love you lots.....thanks so much for including me on this amazing, extraordinary JOURNEY ....reconnnecting with your past. Jaxxs

[om prakash 'kukki']

thnx for write on me...
hello sir!! how r u this is om prakash sharma'kukki' i am so much glade to see some lines on me worte by u? one more artical pubhlish on me in the hindu news paper.. i send u following link.... thanx !!!! http://beta.thehindu.com/arts/magazine/article97698.ece