DRIVING IN INDIA

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We've driven through a large part of southern and northern India over the past six weeks and have experienced a way of life that's truly different from the west: driving. All the westerners we've met agree that (1) any westerner trying to drive in India would die within a week, and (2) any Indian trying to drive in the US would die within a week -- unless they were able to instantly adapt to completely different set of rules of the road. Indian traffic seems to operate on the basis of two apparently conflicting rules: "Might Makes Right" and "Live and Let Live".

We have seen very few police and many types of roads -- one-lane dirt tracks to 6 lane freeways in the big cities. Traffic lights seem to be advisory, and traffic signs are only for decoration. People drive on the left -- unless it will be easier if you go around on the right. (Really!)

MIGHT MAKES RIGHT: No matter where you are, this rule seems to hold. If you're in the larger vehicle, you have the right of way -- no matter where you are in relation to everyone else -- with one exception. There's a well-defined respect system -- here's the hierarchy:
COWS
All other animals, working or not, stray or owned, large or small, wild or tame
Large buses or trucks
Cars
Motorbikes
Autorickshaws (tuk-tuks)
Cycle rickshaws and bicycles
Human pedestrians
If you're crossing the street on foot, always remember where you are in this pecking order. Lights, "zebra" crossings, crossing guards -- they're just to make the game fun. Indian cows really are holy, and no one messes with them, even if they're pooping in one's shop. However, we've seen our busdriver stop dead in traffic to avoid running over the tail of a monkey sitting in the road to beg for food. There's remarkably little roadkill -- if you're Hindu, you're aware of the sacredness of life in any form.

LIVE AND LET LIVE. American road rage has no place in India. Only a few rich and spoiled youth seem to be interested in projecting power with their vehicles, and most of them are on motorbikes. Your vehicle is not an extension of your ego; it's just a way to get from point A to point B. If someone flows out from a side street in front of you, fine -- you adjust. If someone stops short in front of you, be alert -- maybe there's a cow up there. Everyone honks (they wear out horns before brakes), but it means, "Be aware that I'm back here and am coming through", not "I have a car so get out of the way!"

We've read about fatal accidents and saw one young (7-8 years old) girl be hit by a mot or bike. She was bruised and crying, but OK. Our trip leader was involved in an accident when his tuk-tuk driver hit a parked motorbike that was owned by a police officer. Big oops -- it took hours for the trip leader to be released -- and he was just the customer!

We're now about to leave India. After 8 weeks, we're still scared to cross the streets alone!

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Photos

Rush Hour
Everyone heads home at the end of the day.

Not crowded enough ...
Unless you have people on the roof, the bus is not really full

Cargo-Dodging
You can haul anything with anything in India.

The Holy Cow
Don't even think about pushing your way through.

For Our Goat Friends
Our bus passed through herd after herd of Kashmiri goats, most with kids, and never hit one.