Varanasi Ghats

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There were two bonuses to hanging around for hours on end last night, the first was our band of three becoming six as two girls and a guy from Germany came and asked if we were going to Varanasi - finally meeting more backpackers! One girl had been in India since September and gave me some really good advice on Kerala & where to go...sadly they left on the earlier train. The second bonus was meeting two sisters, Julie and Diane, from the US who were traveling through India for three weeks. We were on the same train and agreed to meet in Varanasi...ironically we were staying at the same hotel which was great!

So last night the train was delayed by half an hour and lost even more time in transit, arriving at 7.30am rather than 4.40am! The journey was interesting, sleeping on the middle bunk of three and rocking back and forth sideways on to the direction of the train in a hugely uncomfortable bed...but hey I'm roughing it and finally traveling without a guide! Whoop Whoop! We arrived at the OK International and it was just that...OK. A room and a base for two nights to explore Varanasi suited me fine. The hotel was about 3km from the Ghats at the edge of the river Ganges.

Having gone for a wander to find the internet and see what was going on in the middle of this ancient city, I returned to the hotel and met James, James, Jessie & 'Scruber' - some guys from Australia who were doing a three week walk about. Like all the other people I'd met traveling through India, they too had been fleeced for more than they had budgeted for, and were staying at the hotel for just one night. We agreed to meet up later for a beer or two.

I returned to my room for a little disco nap and to attempt some washing. I'd been through all my boxers and was down to a pair of travel one that didn't leave a lot of room for maneuver! I washed what I could in my sink with shower gel as a substitute and cold water - nowhere seems to have hot water - it wasn't ideal, but with the help of my trusty travel washing line it worked a treat! I felt like I had accomplished something!

I headed back out at 5.30pm on my first ever rickshaw to meet the girls for dinner. I expected it to be a bit bumpy and for him to ride like a bat out of hell, but it was in fact quite serene. 60rupees (90p) later we arrived in Assi Ghat. After getting a little lost in the winding alleys of the Ghat, I was finally at the edge of the river Ganges! Assi Ghat was at the furthest end of the Ghats in Varanasi, but felt like a little bit of paradise in the madness - quiet, calm and a very chilled atmosphere. I sat watching the boats taking tours up and down the river, kids running around trying to sell wishing candles and tourists and locals just enjoying the atmosphere: it was idyllic as the sun set.

I met the girls and popped back to their hotel room for a cheeky glass of wine - no alcohol is allowed within half a kilometer of the river for religious reasons. We chatted about traveling and why we each had decided to do India, swapping stories and comparing places we had visited on the way to Varanasi. We headed out to Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe for the first bit of non-curried food in a week...it was amazing! This great spot over looking the Ganges was an amazing find in the Lonely Planet - Diane had done a great job! The bill for three pizza's and three drinks came to 600rupees (8.20) - the first time we hadn't felt ripped off for food since we arrived!!!

We went for a walk along the Ghats after dinner before I returned to my hotel for a couple of beers and a smoke with my new Aussie mates...which turned out to be a loooooong night!

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