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Published: March 31st 2023
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I could not resist joining a Holi Festival trip after I saw an inviting brochure of cheerful face covered in colored powder. It’s on my bucket list.
Arrived at Delhi airport along with other participants, we were picked up by our tour leader, Ranar. During dinner that evening, we were briefed about the trip, which would take place at Vrindavan, Uttar Pradesh district, a city where Lord Khrisna grew up during his childhood. As majority of the people were Hindu, it will be a three night and four-day vegan diet. The next morning, ten of us left for Vrindavan, a three-hour drive from Delhi.
Once arrived, we reminded of the danger of the monkeys which had the habit of snatching loose items before we alighted the bus. There were at least 14,000 monkeys live in this town as majority of the people worshipped Hanoman, the monkey God. As we walked to a nearby market, we saw monkeys everywhere, but the people seemed to live at peace with them. Even the shopkeepers reminded us not to take our mobile phone out at the risks of being snatched by the monkeys. It didn’t occur to us that it would actually happen
until a monkey jumped to my fellow photographer, Rodrigo, trying to grab his glasses - without success.
As we strolled along the nearby market, we got the first taste of the chaos of the town, where all types of transportation: people on foot, on bike, on motorbike, on tuk tuk and cars flocked into the narrow street. In such a busy street, we also had to avoid being run over by a wailing ambulance and at the same time not bothering the moving cows. By the end of the day, each of us managed to purchase disposable clothing and to wrap our camera in a water-tight cover; all these were in preparation for the Holi Festival the next day.
The next morning, we left for Barsana temple, dedicated to the Lord Khrisna. Our parking lot was about a kilometer from the temple, so we had to take a tuk tuk to reach the temple. We got the first taste of being cheated by tuk tuk driver as we hopped into the tuk tuk before negotiating our fare, only to find out later, he had charged us four times more than the normal price!
As we entered the
area and walked towards the temple, small children and teenagers cheerfully threw colorful powder and shot us with their water gun. Honestly, I had no idea what sort of water they used; there was no point in wiping our clothes as the next group of kids had waited ahead. It’s no surprise they targeted my fair skinned roommate, Fitri, whose eyes got irritated from the powder thrown straight to her eyes! By then, our clothes started turned colorful as we captured the activities on the street with our camera. Each color has its significance, blue represent peace, red loves, yellow happiness and green joy.
To reach the temple, we had to pass a narrow alley, both of which side were the walls of local homes. The number of people who wanted to reach the temple increased in numbers, all eager to move forward and yelled “Radha Radha”. Suffocated, I was tempted to take a break at one of the houses along the alley, but was reminded the need to beat the crowd.
By noon, I finally reached the temple compound and waited under the scorching sun until I managed to find my way to reach the hall, next
the stairs to the temple. Unfortunately, the Hall was guarded by policemen, restricted for visitors. By then, I was about to faint and was allowed to sit on the hall's floor while waiting. It took approximately three hours before we were told to stand near the stairs, in front of the rope, so that we could beat the crowds when the temple's door was opened.
With all might, I managed to find my way to be inside the restricted area on the stairs, but the luxury of this waiting didn't last long; soon, the rope was lifted and I - along with the crowds - had to rush up to reach the temple's door. The force from the people below made it impossible for me to even stand straight. I had to dismiss the worst possible thought and prayed hard for my safety, while people above the temple delightfully threw colored water and gulal - a form of colour made using organic substances like flowers and kesar - using buckets and water guns!
For whatever reasons, I felt we – the foreigners – were being targeted; the people above the temple (not sure if they were the priests
in the temple, Goswamis) must have got certain satisfaction seeing us feeling miserable as they kept showering us with water from above. Out of the blue, a bucket of water landed on the head of Satya, who stood behind me. While he was unhurt (thankfully, he had his hat on), the bucket bounced and landed on my head! Afraid I was being injured, a person next to me shouted “foreigner!” and pointed at me to the policemen on duty, who were on a higher platform near the temple's door. With whatever power that I had, I ducked, pushed forward and found my way up to where they were and was soon lifted by the two gentlemen. Shaken, wet and cold, I was dumbstruck. From where I stood, it was surreal to witness the biggest migration: the river of people below impatiently found their way up when the temple's door was finally opened.
When the door became passable, I entered the temple and was relieved to see Ranar. The first thing came to my mind was this was a male dominated event. No ladies in sight. Neither did I see other participants from the group. The middle of the temple
appeared to me like a boxing ring, covered with people, all wet and covered in red color. I failed to see who conducted the the ceremony from where I stood.
As I tried to capture the commotion with my camera, I got thrown by water again from the second floor and finally decided to call it a quit. I felt overwhelmed. It was merciless. Somehow, as I stood among the crowds, I didn't feel the slightest feeling of solemn. I had to remind myself that the Holi festival was a celebration of love by Khrisna to Radha, who had fair skin compared to Khrisna's dark complexion. It was Khrisna's mother who suggested that he threw color at Radha in a playful manner to win her heart.
To leave the temple was equally confusing; the way out seemed like a maze, and the same crowds who tried to enter the temple started leaving too. I tried following the people in the narrow alley, but gave up and waited on the higher ground of the walled alley - in the hope I'd see familiar face from the group. My prayers were answered. Two familiar faces appeared among the crowds, Nabila
The sight on the street
The ladies performing beating a man ritual on the street and Rodrigo, whom to me was like heaven sent!
The three of us marched through the narrow path, trying to find our way among the group of people performing more rituals on the street. It's a group of ladies playfully beat a guy with sticks. It’s a tradition mirroring what Radha used to do after Khrisna threw colors at her. Half an hour later, we reached our meeting point, all wet, covered head to toe with hardened colored powder. We could not help ourself but laughing outlaid as we felt like defeated soldiers, coming out of a war. In that moment, the image of smiley face, covered with colors vanished from our mind; we were simply thankful coming out of the event unscathed. Indeed, it was a once in a lifetime experience!
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