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Published: December 23rd 2007
Taj Mahal
The world's most famous Mausoleum - reflected in the Southern watercourse.Upon arrival in Delhi I felt reasonably well equipped to deal with the inevitable scams and touts that are par for the course in this part of the world, having absorbed lots of advice from fellow travelers that had already visited India. Straight away the taxi journey from the airport into the city provided me with an introduction to this aspect of travel in India, as even though I'd pre-paid for my taxi from an official booth the driver and his mate in the front seat still refused to take me straight to my destination and wanted me to check out his "friends" travel agent that could easily sort out my onwards tickets!! (sound familiar anyone whose visited India?). Anyway after 15 minutes of discussion and me trying to explain that I hadn't just got off the plane from London and that I knew it was all a scam we got to tourist ghetto of Parharganj and I jumped out and found a room.
The first thing that hit me in India was just the incredible mass of people. They've got 1.1 billion of them to accommodated so its hardly surprising that the streets are a little crowded! Also, there
Old Delhi
A view of the chaotic and colourful streets of Old Delhi. are hardly any women. The streets are completely male dominated, and only occasionally do you glimpse women going about their day.
Delhi was an interesting introduction to India. The levels of English are so good that you often have random people coming up to you and starting conversations in order to practice their English. Then they offer to show you to the "official" government travel agent and you start to wonder if you're being scammed again. Its a real shame that you always have to be on your guard in India against being stitched up as some of the people you meet are just genuinely friendly, whereas others are just looking to take you for a ride! I visited India Gate (a memorial to India's war dead set in expansive parkland) one afternoon and got chatting to some really friendly locals. Indians are always very inquisitive and very interested in family, asking whether I'm married (and surprised that I'm not) and about my siblings. Anyway, they asked me why so many divorces happened in England as it is not the case in India. Why is that, I asked. Because in India a woman treats her husband as if he
Red Fort, Agra
I can see where the name comes from! is a God! Oh, I see, I'll tout that idea back home and see how far its gets me!
I'd heard various stories from other travels about the vagaries of getting train tickets to get you around the country - the massive queuing times, huge amounts of buerocracy and general hassles that were involved. New Delhi train station has an entire booking room dedicated to tourist travel, and given the stories that I had heard I thought the best thing to do as I was only planning on staying in India for 10 days or so would be to book up all of my train tickets at once and then stick to this schedule. This seemed to work, even though I had to accept an 8 hour detour as the incompetent lady serving me swore blind that no direct train existed between Agra and Veranassi - two of India's major cities!
With my tickets all booked up, I spent a few days exploring Delhi and trying actual Indian food (veg thali, muthar panner e.t.c - not just curries!) and I headed to Agra. Agra was hot, damned hot. 46 degrees when I arrived which is starting to get
Fathephur Mosque
The most exquisite marble work that I encountered in my time in Agra. a bit stupid - especially when I end up sightseeing in the middle of the day! I visited the Red Fort, which was impressively imposing, and took a bus to the ancient city of Fathephur Sikri where I I visited a mosque that just had some of the most exquisite marble work and architecture (marble-work which put to shame that which was on display at the Taj Mahal).
Obviously the main reason everyone comes to Agra is to view the Taj Mahal. Built by Shah Jahan as a mausoleum to his deceased bride the building is, obviously, very impressive and exquisitely sculpted. I woke up at dawn in order to beat as many of the crowds as possible (locals not tourists) and got the traditional "money shot" of the Taj Mahal reflected in the southern water course just after sunrise. Top stuff, although I must confess that I thought the temples of Ankor definitely outstripped the Taj for scale and grandeur - though finding out that Shah Jahan did not in fact die of a broken heart but from massive overdoses of opium and barbituates earnt him a lot of respect in my book!
My final stop in
India was Varanassi - the longest continually habited city in the world they claim (although later I found out that Damascus touts exactly the same story!). It was a maze of crazy, filthy narrow streets that all tend to lead down towards the sacred River Ganges. After a 15 hour train journey to get there I was victim to my only really annoying scam. After agreeing price and destination with my rickshaw driver we drove around the city for well over an hour with him just refusing to take me to the guest house I had specified - instead he took me to other similarly named ones that would give him commission. I knew were we weren't - and that was anywhere but the actual place I wanted to go - but as I had no clue where we actually where I eventually gave, up a broken man, and just jumped into the nearest guest-house, although luckily it was quite nice!
The highlight of Varanassi was a dawn boat ride on the Ganges. In complete contrast to the bustling streets, being rowed along the river was a serene way to experience real life on the Ganges - kids swimming,
Lawn mowers - India style!
The grass outside the Taj Mahal is kept trim! people washing themselves and their clothes, fisherman attempting to catch. I really enjoyed it.
I left India,striking north to Nepal. Although it wasn't great fun traveling-wise - I can't really put my finger on it, but I think it was a combination of the frustration at being constantly on guard against being scammed, the intense heat and that for the first time I hadn't really met any travel companions that I had clicked with - traveling in India was definitely an experience that I'm so glad I've had. Its a very different country to any of the others I've visited and I got just a small taste. I think much longer to explore and getting out of the cities and off the beaten track and I'd maybe have warmed to India a bit more (heat of less than 40 degrees at 7 o'clock in the morning might have done the trick as well!)
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