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Published: November 25th 2007
Nov 17 to Nov 19
From Agra India "Namaste" (again in Hindi)
To live in India, the world’s largest democracy, one must have both patience and a sense of humour. That might be why we feel like we’re in the middle of a Peter Sellers’ movie (or in downtown Toronto).
Agra, with a population of two and a half million, is considered just a small town by Indian standards in this country of one and a half billion. Tourism is the mainstay of the city of Agra's economy. The ancient trades plied here (since the 11th century) of leather shoe making, marble inlay work and carpet weaving are still practised in the same traditional manner, but no new industries have been allowed for fear of more pollution harming the existing monuments..(with the exception of maybe a few call centres?
From our hotel rooftop lookout we had our first magical glimpse of the grandeur of the Taj Mahal.
The next day our tour began with a tonga ride to the Taj Mahal. These “taxis” are traditonal horse drawn carts. Our horse was in a bad mood and required one driver plus another “handler” to keep the horse on
Three Generations
Shot this wonderful grouping on a street near the Taj course. The street scene is colourful and lively. (Note to Michael and Harvey----these are not the words you would have used to describe the scene).
The Taj Mahal is a tribute to love. Here’s the story: Shah Jahan, the fifth and last emperor was the richest ruler of his time. His wife and he were inseparable lovers. She often accompanied him on campaigns. They were married for 18 years during which time she bore 14 children and had 3 miscarriages. In 1630, she died during a 30-hour labour at the age of 38yrs. Before she died she expressed her last wish to the Shah to build a beautiful and incomparable monument over her grave as a token of their worldly inseparable love. In India they say that the Shah “loved her to death”.
In 1631 he began construction of the monument and the other 24 buildings on 50 acres, which took 22 years to complete. The Shah never called it the Taj Mahal. That name evolved because the European tongue could not pronounce the Indian name which translates as "Tomb of Mahal"--a tomb for his most adored wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the 2nd and favourite of his 3 wives.
Tonga ride to the taj
Our horse got up on the wrong side of the cart today He also had 3,000 other women in his harem so she must have been something special.
Before she died, she extracted two promises from her husband. The first was that she be buried in Agra near her family home. The 2nd promise made to her was that he wouldn’t remarry. He kept his word……..but he still had those 3000 harem girls.
With great wealth and power, the Shah had his architects create “A Paradise on Earth”.
A total of 50,000 craftsmen and labourers worked on the construction. Obviously his wife never saw his monument of love. Of note is the sad end of the love story. The emperor’s son seized power, imprisoned his father in a cell with a view of his beloved wife’s tomb, which broke the Shah's heart. He died in prison.
A fine white marble called Macrana (native to India) was utilized for its strength and durablility. Lindsay, having sculpted in marble, was impressed with the quality of the work, and appreciated the difficult task it must have been to carve this very dense hard stone.
The layout of the Taj complex, aptly called “a dream in marble” is perfectly proportioned, balanced and absolutely symmetrical.
It is a glistening, ethereal, majestic treasure and the effect on us was powerful-----a very special sight that does not fall short of one’s expectations.
Though we had just a short glimpse of India, (in fact, just a tease), for many of our fellow travellers it was enough to take away a mixed memory --- many developed “Delhi Belly”, un unfortunate souvenir, that will not be cherished.
Our departure from Agra became an “agra”-vating experience as we were kept for 3 and a half hours on the tarmac, due to what appeared as incompetence, bureaucracy and corruption, (A paltry sum in the form of a cash bribe seemed to clear the runway---- finally).
In spite of all the issues, Lindsay is still determined to return to actually see India, and MaryEllen says never again. (well maybe on a cruise)
We can’t describe too much else, since we had only one day here, but some of the photos will speak for themselves.
We say “Main chalta hoon” to India, and head off to the “hot destination” of Dubai in the United Arab Emirates.
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Rhoda
non-member comment
WOW
Thank you so much for including me. I look for your emails daily and can feel your excitement and enthusiasm.It makes me feel almost like I am travelling with you: this is better that any TV serial. Wishing you both a safe journey and lost of KM moments. You will be telling stories for months to come. Love Rhoda