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Published: February 24th 2016
India, Incredible India
This is one adventure I have been looking forward to for a long, long time. My three flights from Las Vegas to Delhi will be punishing, as I journey halfway around the globe in the coming hours (22 actual flight hours to be exact), but to finally step down onto Indian soil will make it all worthwhile. Bring on the curry and tandoori! LOL Still being standard time, it’s yet ANOTHER zero-dark-thirty start to the day to connect with my 7:30am flight – I need much later departing flights for a change, this stumbling around in predawn darkness gets old fast.
My favorite “little blue bus” airport shuttle arrived promptly at 5am and we were off to McCarran – as always an efficient check in process; speedy transit thru security thanks to my TSA Pre-check status and I was lifting off the tarmac right on time, with a Mimosa in one hand and warm cashews in the other – ain’t life grand? A quick couple of hours to Seattle and then a 3-hour layover in Delta’s lounge, happily ensconced in my favorite window seat, sipping Baileys and coffee. After all, I do
have to fortify myself for the upcoming 11+ hours to Paris and then a further 8+ hours on to Delhi, do I not? I can only imagine how numb my brain (not to mention my ass) will be, by the time I land there.
I was “feet down” on Indian soil at 11:20pm – physically and mentally fried after the flights across the globe – but as least I won’t have to listen to screaming babies and eat airline food again for a few weeks. The flights were basically uneventful and I did get to watch the latest James Bond movie “Spectre”, but that many hours crammed in a tin tube with 250+ strangers is not my idea of a good time, especially when a decent percentage of these folks don’t even have a passing acquaintanceship with deodorant – not to mention the mandatory bug spraying throughout the cabin on the last leg - such is life.
The moment I stepped out of the plane onto the jet way in Delhi, I about gagged: at first I thought there was a wood-burning fire close by before I realized it was the smell of air
pollution, and I thought Cairo’s was bad. Egypt is a glowing beacon of environmental protection sensitivity compared to here. Its god awful, to put it mildly. A long hike to the immigration counters and true to form, lots of unmanned booths and only 3 customs officers in attendance. Thankfully I had deplaned with the first group of passengers, so was able to perform the required activities (biometrics collected, etc.) in less than an hour. I can only imagine how long it will take for the “great unwashed” from the economy section to get this far – probably still be in the airport come daylight. Once I had my treasured 30-day visa duly stamped in passport, I stopped by the local bank’s currency exchange to grab a boatload of rupees and then collected my bag from the carousel. So far, so good for my first experience on the sub-continent.
Waiting for my car and driver for transport to the hotel, I was highly entertained for the next 45 minutes watching the hordes of Delhi swarming around the airport. It was 1am, cool with a light breeze and were it not for pollution lying like a miasma of doom
over everything, it was damn near perfect for people watching. The full complement of this country’s caste system appeared to be represented, from Brahmins to Sikhs to the Untouchables, and every other rung on the ladder of status – an exotic, chaotic zoo, it was madness – my kinda place! LOL But I was quite happy when my ride appeared and we were off to the hotel in Noida. This was one hour-long taxi ride I won’t soon forget. I expected heavy traffic regardless of the time of night – after all, Delhi is the world’s 3
rd largest city population-wise - but I found the total disregard for traffic laws hilarious. Yes there are traffic lights at intersections and some even have 50-second countdown meters, but as soon as there is ANY break in oncoming traffic, drivers take this as a personal challenge (i.e. red rag to a bull) and they bolt thru the red lights with nary a traffic cop in sight. I think my driver only restrained himself from doing the same thing as I was in the back seat, but I was prepared for anything. Then there’s the trucks barreling down the highway like bats out of
hell. There must be some type of competition for the most gaudy decorated vehicle on the road, as I saw some of the most incredible paint jobs on trucks ever….from psychedelic “day of the dead” skull faces, to hammered tin panels and even Christmas lights hanging from back bumpers – it was Las Vegas on acid on 18 wheels, I swear to god! Every single truck has the words “sound horn” painted on the back but I can’t imagine why. The cacophony of car horns from EVERY vehicle on the road is defeating – why in god’s good name would they ever need a reminder to do this? I love this country – it’s a hoot…
Upon arrival I was pleasantly surprised to find a new building next to the highway and the metro system, and people staffing the front reception desk who really know the meaning of customer service. Within minutes I was escorted to my suite on the 6
th floor with a massive picture window overlooking the infinity pool. An extremely comfortable king-size bed awaited, but first a steaming hot shower to wash away the last 36 hours of travel stains. I stood under the
rainfall shower for at least 30 minutes – nothing has felt this good for days, and then collapsed into bed….dreamland here I come.
Every morning the English-language Hindustani Times is delivered to my door. Being a writer naturally I’m sensitive to words and phrases….this newspaper is a riot. If I didn’t know better I would assume the reporter is maybe 12 years old it’s that bad, but highly entertaining. It’s also very obvious he/she is not a native English speaker….too funny. I would have a ball working there, that’s for sure. By the time I dragged myself down to the buffet breakfast at 10am, I felt like 3 women: 2 dead and 1 dying….it’s going to take much more than 6 hours of solid sleep in a very comfortable bed, to recuperate from the previous two days’ travel. I’m taking the rest of today to simply relax, unpack and grab as much rest/sleep as I can, before I “hit the streets” to explore tomorrow. India…..here I come.
Navigating Delhi’s seven cities (or 12, if you include British-built New Delhi and the satellite cities of Noida, Faridabad, Ghaziabad and Gurgaon) is made infinitely easier by
its gleaming, cheap and efficient metro. I decided to spend the entire day utilizing this transportation mode and discovering this chaotic and madhouse location….people-watching the locals and getting totally lost – that’s always one way to experience a new location.
My day started with a first stop at Jama Masjid Mosque, which was built by Mughal emperor Shan Jahan between 1644 and 1656 at a cost of 1 million rupees, and was inaugurated by an Iman from Bukhara (present day Uzbekistan). The mosque was completed in 1656 with three great gates, four towers and two 120’ high minarets constructed of strips of red sandstone and white marble. The courtyard can accommodate more than 25,000 people. There are three domes on the terrace which are surrounded by the two minarets. On the floor, a total of 899 black borders are marked for worshippers. This mosque not only required that I remove my shoes, but also wear a modified “burqa” – this one happened to be a flower design with Velcro closings at the shoulder - a Dior model I did NOT emulate in any way and no, there aren’t any pictures, so don’t ask….LOL
Following
my change of attire, the rickshaw ride was up next….15 minutes of riding around what I would refer to as the ghetto of Old Delhi, trash and potholes everywhere, not to mention the dead dog in one alley. I must admit, the small-stature men peddling like their lives depend on it (which it does) taking tourists around their neighborhood, really work for their rupee pittance but honestly, I could have lived without it.
No visit to Delhi is complete with a stop and a few photos of Raj Ghat, the cremation site memorial of Mahatma Gandhi, Father of the Indian Nation. Next up was a slow drive-by of the massive Red Fort, a stark reminder of the magnificent power of Mughal royalty in a bygone era. After a lunch stop, next up was the world’s tallest brick minaret located at Qutab Minar – a UNESCO World Heritage Site and to round out the day a drive thru New Delhi, a city of wide boulevards, colonial buildings, lush parks and gardens which echo the British Raj. The imposing India Gate War Memorial is located here, built to honor British and Indian soldiers, along with Parliament House and the
Presidential Palace. A lot to cram into a day, but well worth the effort.
Mystery, magic, mayhem….Delhi, City of Djinns, and 25 million people. Like an eastern version of Rome, India’s capital is littered with the relics of lost empires. A succession of armies stormed across the Indo-Gangetic plain and imprinted their identity onto the vanquished city, before vanishing into rubble and ruin like the conquerors who preceded them. Modern Delhi is a chaotic tapestry of medieval fortifications, Mughal mausoleums, dusty bazaars, colonial-era town planning, and mega malls.
The Red Fort, converted into a barracks by the British, this massive edifice is a sandstone carcass of its former self, but it still conjures a picture of the splendor of Mughal Delhi. Protected by a dramatic high wall, the marble and sandstone monuments here were constructed at the peak of the dynasty’s power, when the empire was flush with gold and precious stones. Shah Jahan founded the fortress between 1638 and 1648 to protect his new capital city of Shahjahanabad, but he never took up full residence, after his disloyal son, Aurangzeb, imprisoned him in Agra Fort.
The last Mughal emperor of
Delhi, Bahadur Shah Zafar, was routed from the Red Fort in 1857 and exiled to Burma for his role in the First War of Independence. The new conquerors destroyed most of the buildings inside the fortress walls and replaced them with ugly barrack blocks for the colonial army. Every evening except Monday, the fort is the setting for a bombastic sound and light show, with colored spotlights and a portentous voiceover, highlighting key events in the history of the Red Fort.
Travelers sometimes leave Delhi underwhelmed, after ticking off the sights and tussling with the touts. But give the city a chance and you just might fall in love. It’s often the lesser-known corners that are most rewarding, such as Lodi Gardens at dusk, the qawwali (Islamic devotional singing) at Nizamuddin or the great fort of Purana Qila. A recommended way to glimpse beneath the surface is to take one of the city’s tours, from a former street child’s view of Old Delhi to a cycle tour along the River Yamuna. Final night in India’s capital and with the long drive to Agra tomorrow, it’s a relatively early night for yours truly and a solid night’s sleep.
If my time spent here is any indication of what’s in store, it can only get better…..so far, so good!
Before leaving Delhi, a “must see” stop was at the Akshardham Temple which, without a doubt, is the most impressive structure I have ever seen, anywhere…..and considering all the places I have visited over the years, that is saying a lot. Also known as Swaminarayan Akshardham, it epitomizes 10,000 years of Indian culture in all its breathtaking grandeur, beauty, wisdom and bliss. It brilliantly showcases the essence of India’s ancient architecture, traditions and timeless spiritual messages. The Akshardham experience is an enlightening journey through India’s glorious art. The complex was built in only 5 years through the colossal devotional efforts of 11,000 artisans and thousands of volunteers. Heralded by the Guinness World Record as the World’s Largest Comprehensive Hindu Temple, the complex was inaugurated on 6 November, 2005. Created out of pink sandstone and white marble with over 20,000 statues, floral motifs and exquisitely carved pillars, this architectural masterpiece built along the Yamuna River, lies in an area of over 100 acres, along with beautiful gardens, water fountains and carved pavilions. It literally took my breath away!
A 3-hour bus ride brought me to Agra and what is lovingly called the “Baby Taj”. Its real name is Itmad-Ud-Daulah and was built by Empress Noorjahan between 1622 – 1628, in memory of her father. It’s the first building in India to be made of marble, and also the first building in which marble inlay work is the main element in the decoration theme. It is a superb architectural structure, unique in design, elegant in finish and is known to have been the inspiration for the world-famous Taj Mahal. Surrounded by well-kept gardens and located close to the river, it’s definitely a storyboard for its Big Brother. By the time I had walked around taking in the sights and photographing them, the day was drawing to a close with the temperature starting to drop along with the sun. Time to make for my hotel and get settled in.
The Trident Agra is part of the Oberoi Group which is probably the most famous of Indian hotel chains and well deserves its reputation as a 4-star property, just 1.5 miles from the Taj Mahal. I had a delightful room overlooking the golf course towards
the back of the property and it sported a very comfortable king-size bed and multiple English-language television channels….I’m a happy camper! The onsite restaurant serves the three meals each day either buffet style or choice from a standard menu….whichever is chosen, the food is simply fantastic…fresh, well prepared western and Indian entrees with a variety of salads, side dishes and breads. I went back for second helpings on the eggplant, it was that good. I managed to get a solid 6 hours of rest before making my way back to this eatery for another outstanding meal – buffet breakfast early the next morning.
Today was to be one of the two highlights of my India trip: actually seeing the Taj Mahal with my own eyes….how many people get to do that? Just walking onto the grounds of this fabled monument was thrilling and in spite of seeing photographs of it so many times, nothing compares to actually standing right in front of it. This magnificent structure commemorates the deep love of Shan Jahan for Mumtaz Mahal, and he had this built following her untimely death during the birth of their 14
th child. Its perfect proportions and expert
craftsmanship have been described as “a prayer, a vision, a dream, a poem and a wonder”. This grandiose garden tomb, supposedly an image of the Islamic garden of paradise, cost nearly 41 million rupees and 1000 lbs of pure gold. About 20,000 workers labored for close to 22 years to complete it in 1653. The magical allure of the Taj Mahal draws tourists to Agra like moths to a wondrous flame, and despite the hype, it’s every bit as good as you’ve heard. But the Taj is not a stand-alone attraction. The legacy of the Mughal Empire has left a magnificent fort and a liberal sprinkling of fascinating tombs and mausoleums; and there’s also fun to be had in the bustling marketplaces. The downside comes in the form of hordes of rickshaw-wallahs, touts, unofficial guides and souvenir vendors, whose persistence can be infuriating at times.
Many tourists choose to visit Agra on a whistle-stop day trip from Delhi. This is a shame. There is much more of interest here than can be seen in that time. In fact, you can enjoy several days’ sightseeing with side trips to the superb ruined city of Fatehpur Sikri and the
Hindu pilgrimage center of Mathura. Agra sits on a large bend in the holy Yamuna River. The fort and the Taj, 2 miles apart, both overlook the river on different parts of the bend. The main train and bus stations are a few miles southwest. The laborers and artisans who toiled on the Taj set up home immediately south of the mausoleum, creating the congested network of alleys known as Taj Ganj, now a popular area for budget travelers.
The most perfectly proportioned and captivating of Delhi’s mausoleums - Humayan’s tomb - seems to float above the gardens that surround it. Built in the mid-16th century by Haji Begum the Persian-born senior wife of the Mughal emperor Humayun, the tomb brings together Persian and Mughal elements, creating a template that strongly influenced the Taj Mahal.
Following six years of restoration and completed in 2013, the tomb, other monuments and gardens are now appearing bright and beautiful. The arched facade is inlaid with bands of white marble and red sandstone, and the building follows strict rules of Islamic geometry, with an emphasis on the number eight. The surrounding gardens are alive with green parakeets and
contain the tombs of the emperor’s favorite barber and Haji Begum. This was where the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, took refuge before being captured and exiled by the British in 1857.
The Agra Fort structure was first commissioned by the great Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1565, and further additions were made by his grandson Shan Jahan (the builder of Taj Mahal). The fort is constructed of red sandstone and white marble and was used as a residential palace by Shan Jahan and his famous queen, Mumtaz Mahal. The somewhat forbidding exteriors hide what can only be described as an inner paradise: a number of exquisite buildings such as the Moti Masjid, a white marble mosque akin to a perfect pearl, and Mussaman Burj where Shan Jahan was later held captive by his son in 1666.
For a change of pace, I decided to partake of some evening entertainment by attending a live performance of Mohabbat-e-Taj, which tells the enduring love story relating to the Taj Mahal. It was a little more than an hour in length and my best description of it would be to say it’s a “mini Bollywood production” with
brilliant costumes, fairly decent singing but god-awful acting. It was worth one visit but not something I would ever consider doing a second time.
After another delicious breakfast buffet in the Trident, it was time to bid adieu to this delightful hotel and depart for Rajasthan “land of kings” and a very popular tourist destination in northern India. It would be a long day of riding in a coach but enroute a stop was made at the ancient village of Abhaneri, to visit the Chand Baori step well, one of the oldest and largest in the country, dating back to the 8
th or 9
th century. This unique idea conceived by the early natives to function as a water reservoir, is situated adjacent to the temple dedicated to Harshat Mata, goddess of joy and happiness. It is reputed that the step well contains more than 3,500 stone steps descending to a depth of 60’.
I know India is reputed to be a contrast of cultures but I certainly never expected this to include the many sights of men urinating and defecating in full public view! Apparently this is not that uncommon especially in rural farming
areas, but it still takes some getting used to. Animals roaming free on the streets are neck and neck with the number of people. More buffalos and cows than I can count, closely followed by pigs, goats, sheep and dogs with a few donkeys thrown in for good measure. Horses are rarely seen here and camels have taken their place in pulling carts thru the villages and towns. A curious fact about these camels, they have their hind quarters (butts) tattooed in intricate designs….I’m guessing it’s done with black ink or paint. Probably makes for a much better view from the driver’s perspective, than a plain old camel ass in motion all the time!
The next two nights would be spent at The Pugmark hotel which is located just outside of my next sightseeing stop – Ranthambhore National Park. It is a basic safari-type hotel with everything you need for a decent night’s sleep, but no television – such is life. At least Wi-Fi was available for the minimal cost of 200 rupees for each 24 hour segment. After checking into my bungalow complete with marble floors and a ceiling fan, a hot shower was my first
concern – it had been a lot of hours on a bus. A lackluster buffet dinner was available, but then I didn’t come here for the food, but the tigers.
During the 19th century there was excellent forest cover almost all over India. The population density was very low and exploitation of forests to fulfill local needs was negligible. During that period the forests of Ranthambhore were the private and exclusive hunting reserves of the Jaipur and Karauli royal family. The local villagers were allowed to take many kinds of forest produces in unlimited quantities for their private use, after payment of an annual tax (called Babs). In selected areas of the forests of Ranthambhore, which were used for hunting by royalty, grazing and tree felling were strictly forbidden, but there were few restrictions elsewhere. However, due to the low population density, there was hardly any damage to these dry deciduous forests and its wildlife.
By the end of the first quarter of the 20th century, the need for conservation of forests and wildlife, was being felt all over the country. The population was growing rapidly and the forests were coming under pressure. In
Ranthambhore, the system of "royalty permits" for commercial felling (mainly for firewood and charcoal) of entire blocks of forests was taking its toll. In 1925, the Jaipur state created a post of Superintendent of Forests and in 1939 the Jaipur Forest Act was enacted. The Rajasthan Forest Act was enacted in 1953, giving these forests some legal protection. In 1955, these forests were declared as "Sawai Madhopur sanctuary" and the practice of sale of forest produce through these royalty permits came to an end. This was when the forests of Ranthambhore received their first "real" protection. However, legal hunting continued unabated till 1973 and by then the tiger population was almost totally decimated.
In 1973 a part of this Sawai Madhopur sanctuary came under Project Tiger scheme. At that time there were 16 villages inside the sanctuary but between 1976 and 1979, 12 of these villages were shifted outside the sanctuary. In 1980 in order to give greater protection to the forests, an area of the inner part of Sawai Madhopur sanctuary was declared as national park. Since then the state Government stopped collection of any forest produce from the sanctuary and national parks. In the year 1983
another region of forests lying to the north of the National park were declared as the Kela Devi Sanctuary and included in the Tiger Project. Similarly in 1984 a smaller area of forests lying to the south of the Ranthambhore National Park were declared as Sawai Mansingh Sanctuary and included in Tiger Project.
During the 1970s, tiger sightings were extremely rare in Ranthambhore but by the mid and late 1980s, as a result of the decade long protection given to the forests, Ranthambhore became the best place in the world to see wild tigers. Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve attained notoriety for illegal poaching of tigers in the year 1992. Since then the forest authorities became very strict and now, generally speaking, poaching is not a serious threat in the forests. Since 1992, the tiger population has gradually recovered and in 2002 the Park boasted 55 - which is one of the highest in the world.
In 2003 and 2004, disaster struck Ranthambhore's tigers once again. A census conducted by the Rajasthan State Empowered committee showed that there were only 26 tigers in entire reserve and all of them were within the national park. The other areas
of the reserve were totally devoid of tigers. To quote from the report of the Tiger Task Force - "in Ranthambhore, which is now known to have lost a large number of its tigers......the threat of poaching remains..."
In 2005, the Rajasthan and the Indian central government set up committees to look into the state of Ranthambhore and to suggest measures to improve the situation. This put the spotlight back on Ranthambhore and the tiger crisis in India (what is now being called the "third tiger crisis") and since then, the forest and police departments intensified the protection around the tiger reserve.
Today was to be “game reserve drives” day with two trips into the interior with high hopes of seeing these incredible big cats. By 5am I was showered, dressed and ready for whatever this day would bring. I dropped off a laundry bag of dirty clothing to be cleaned and then headed for the communal open-air meeting ground where coffee, tea and biscuits are served every morning and evening for the guests, prior to meals. Just as dawn was breaking over this vast sub-continent, 18 of us including the driver and a local
naturalist guide, boarded the open-sided game reserve vehicle, known as a canter, high enough off the ground to prevent any of the big cats from jumping inside (or at least, that is what I told myself). And off we went in our search for these elusive beasts as well as hyenas, foxes, deer, jackals and monkeys.
This drive will go down as one of the roughest, wildest and most exhilarating ever, all rolled into one. The “roads” are dirt paths strewn with rocks and stone slabs and considering the vehicles have probably never heard of shock absorbers, you can imagine we were thrown around the vehicle like pebbles in a can….I ended up with bruises from shoulders to knees….but I had the time of my tiny life. Passengers can only venture approximately 14 miles or so inside the park and of course, can never leave the vehicle unless they plan on being the main entrée on a tiger’s dinner menu. During the first hour, we saw a variety of deer grazing close to the road which gave everyone fantastic photo opportunities, but we began to despair of seeing a big cat. The two main ways to locate
tigers in the wild is (1) to find fresh footprints (none to be had), and (2) to hear the call of monkeys warning of approaching animals (again not a peep to be heard across the void). Not looking good by anyone’s estimation. Then lo and behold our luck change radically for the better. A leopard guarding a recent kill was spotted up on the side of a hill, lying on a rock and very hard to see. From what our naturalist guide told us, this was the best sighting of a leopard he had ever seen, as they are the rarest to spot in the park and only 100 are known to exist….is this a great day or what? For the next 30 minutes we remained parked at the base of the hill, probably 400’ away from the big cat, who actually seemed totally unconcerned at our presence and posed peacefully about 10’ above his kill. I took a few photos using my telescopic lens and when the naturalist asked for my camera, I wondered what the hell was going on. Then he proceeded to take some of the most marvelous close ups of the leopard (check them all out
on my travel blog) – these are award-winning pictures in my humble opinion. We were all so excited including the guides in adjoining vehicles – obviously this is an extremely rare sighting for them all.
As the naturalist didn’t want to disturb the marvelous predator any longer, we finally turned around and headed back towards the park’s entrance. Just before exiting, we came across a family of black-faced monkeys who very conveniently posed for us in a tree eating carrots. We spent almost 3 hours within the confines of the national park before returning to the Pugmark hotel and breakfast.
As I sit here by the open windows in the bungalow, I’m looking out over the tended gardens filled with brilliantly-colored flowers of every description. It’s hazy with a warm breeze rustling the landscape. Temperature is in the low 70’s with very little humidity – it’s a delightful day in northern India. The weather so far, has really cooperated for outdoor sightseeing….long may it continue. Time for lunch and I think I will eat outside under a large banyan tree for shade. I can almost envision the time of the British Raj back in
the late 1800’s….military officers walking around these grounds escorting their wives to tea and watching a local game of cricket….time seems to have almost stood still here.
By 2:30pm it was time to depart on the second and last game drive, only this time exploring a different section of the park with fingers crossed for tigers. I thought this morning’s drive was a rough one but what I experienced in the next 4 hours was at least 3 times worse….I ache from shoulders to knees and god-only-knows what bruises will develop by tomorrow. BUT it was worth every bounce and rumble for my deepest desires were answered with crocodiles, wild boar and TWO TIGERS….how lucky can I can? Being midafternoon it was much warmer, probably in the low 80 degree range with brilliant sunshine and cloudless blue skies. Thankfully with the dense forest, plenty of shade was available while driving around, so no concern with getting sunburnt. We had the same naturalist from this morning who did his level best to find these marvelous predators and now I have a photo collection which is beyond belief.
Word of warning to my readers of this
blog. Should you ever take this type of Safari here in India and have back, neck or shoulder problems…..DO NOT even consider signing up for it. The rides are simply too rough and you are thrown around like rag dolls….I will be swallowing pain meds for the next couple of days!
Back at the lodge by 5:30pm, my bag of clean laundry sat on the bed (my clothes never looked this good when brand new), beautifully folded and lined with tissue paper, all for the grand total of 700 rupees (approximately $10.31). Too bad I can’t get my clothes done that cheap back in Vegas. Being the last night here, the staff had a BBQ going in the outdoor area close to the restaurant. A 3-piece band entertained the guests with selections of Indian music while we enjoyed the chicken “starters” off the grill….tasted pretty good too. After the two game drives, I don’t think there was a place on my body which didn’t hurt to some degree, so it was soaking in another hot shower before bed and a Vicodin tablet to help me sleep….tomorrow is another exciting location…on to Jaipur, the Pink City.
Upon arrival in Jaipur, checked it the Ramada Jaipur (definitely an old 3-star hotel in this chain) but with a decent location close to the city center. Wi-Fi costs are totally ridiculous, but knowing me and my addiction to the internet, I’ll be buying the required time.
Jaipur is the capital and largest city in the state of Rajasthan, and was founded on November 18, 1727 by Maharaja Jai Singh the ruler of Amer, for whom the city is named. Also known as the “Pink City”, it is an enthralling historical location and the gateway to India’s most flamboyant state. Jaipur’s colorful chaotic streets ebb and flow with a heady brew of old and new. Careering buses dodge dawdling camels, leisurely cycle-rickshaws frustrate swarms of motorbike riders, and everywhere buzzing auto rickshaws watch for easy tourist prey. In the midst of this mayhem, the splendors of the city’s majestic past, are islands of relative calm, evoking a different pace and another world.
At the city’s heart is the opulent City Palace, former residence of the royal family, and now a grand museum with an extraordinary collection of paintings, costumes and armory; the beautifully
preserved 18
th century Jantar Mantar Observatory maintains a heavenly aspect, and the honeycomb Hawa Mahal (“Palace of Winds”) gazes down on the bazaar below. Just out of sight in the arid hill country surrounding this city, is the fairy-tale grandeur of the Amber Fort….without a doubt, Jaipur’s star attraction.
The first thing that speaks to Jaipur history is the Amber fort. This principal tourist attraction is situated about 7 miles from the center of the Pink City. Amber is a small town and was the ancient citadel of the ruling Kachhawa clan of Amber, before the capital was shifted from the plains to present day Jaipur. If there is any place demonstrating the beauty and junction of both Hindu and Mughal customs and architecture, it has to be Amber fort. Constructed by Raja Man Singh I and completed by Sawai Jai Singh I, the fort is built in red sandstone and white marble.
The four level courtyards are the most appealing and inviting enclosures of this symmetrical structure.
It is not at all surprising that the Amber fort welcomes more than 5000 visitors each day. To reach the entrance of the fort, it’s a
choice of walking across the hills, hiring a jeep or taking an elephant……guess which one I decided to do? LOL Spending approximately 15 minutes on the back of one of these magnificent beasts is a riot…..more comfortable that a camel, smoother than a horse and it sure beats walking up a sheer incline to the main entrance. I managed to take some terrific photos as the animal slowly climbed higher and higher along the fort’s towering walls. Spent a delightful hour inside this magnificent structure, totally in awe of what was constructed so many centuries ago….what incredible wealth was needed to bring this into creation. At the conclusion of my exploration, it was a jeep ride back down the hill to the waiting bus and on to the Observatory and the City Palace – both items which definitely should be on any tourist’s “must visit” agenda when in Jaipur. I needed a few hours of “down” time that afternoon, so curled up on the bed back at the Ramada and brought this blog up to date, wrote my reviews on Tripadvisor and watched a couple of episodes of Downton Abbey on the television….great afternoon and time well spent!
One thing I have noticed during my time on this fabulous sub-continent…..the people are extremely physically attractive, especially the adult men…..lord have mercy on my hormones…many should be required to come with “hazard to your health” warning stickers! I was disappointed in the dinner last night – probably just tired of buffets, seems everywhere I go on this trip, that is what available in most places. The dancing was mediocre at best and to be honest, I really could have lived without both….note to self, check out future evening entertainments more thoroughly! At least I was back in the hotel early enough to be able to kick back, watch a little CNN news and prepare myself for the long drive tomorrow. Bring on the next Indian delight – Jodhpur.
An early start (7:30am) and the sun was barely above the horizon. I decided I simply couldn’t face yet another buffet breakfast, so settled for cereal, coffee and a pastry….mundane I know, but one more buffet line and I’ll probably kill something! LOL. This would be one of the longest days of the trip, but considering how far apart Indian cities are and the amount of driving
required, not all that surprising. It did turn out to be a lot of driving for sure today and the sun was setting by the time we arrived at our hotel, Ranbanka Palace, a member of the Heritage Group Hotel Chain. Ranbanka, which literally means “the master of battles”, was an honor conferred on the Rajput clan of Jodhpur, the Rathores. The palace was built in 1927 for the youngest son of Maharaja Sir Sardar Singh Ji, who was one of the renowned princes of the region. A part of this palace was converted into a hotel, offering guests the opportunity to enjoy one of Rajasthan’s foremost royal residences. It offers an array of cuisines from in-room dining to buffets, a la carte, private gatherings and theme dinners, and further offers diversity in locations: the garden, the restaurant and poolside. Langa dancers, puppet shows and traditional music recitals offer a chance to enjoy the many aspects of Rajasthani culture. Other attractions at this fabulous hotel, include signature spa therapies and a shopping corridor for handicrafts and tailor-made RBJ mojaris. This place definitely rates 5 stars.
Jodhpur – a sentinel in the desert on the eastern fringe of
the Thar Desert, it is a doorway to a wonderland of sand dunes and shrubs, rocky terrain and thorn trees. In 1459 Rao Jodha, chief of the Rathore clan and claiming descent from Lord Rama, laid the foundations. A high stone wall protects the well-fortified city, measuring nearly 7 miles in length and has 8 gates facing various directions. The city lies at the foot of a low range of hills on which stands the imposing Mehrangarh Fort, and the clear distinction between the old and new cities is visible from this fort’s ramparts.
Mighty Mehrangarh, the magnificent fort that towers over the Blue City of Jodhpur, is an incredible spectacle and an architectural masterpiece. The 33 points of interest are narrated in various languages which only enhances the marvelous experience of exploring this man-made wonder. It towers high above the city with 360-degree views to die for…..I can’t imagine the effort it took to create this edifice. Around Mehrangarh’s base the old city, a jumble of Brahmin-blue cubes, stretches out some 7 miles long, surrounded by a 16
th century city wall. The Blue City really is blue! Inside is a tangle of winding, glittering, medieval streets,
which never seem to lead where you expect them to, scented by incense, roses and sewers, with shops and bazaars selling everything from trumpets and temple decorations to snuff and sarees. Its construction was started in 1459 by Rao Jodha, but he was unavailable to complete it in his lifetime. It is believed construction was finalized in the second half of the 17
th century by Raja Jaswant Singh.
Traditionally blue signified the home of a Brahmin, but non-Brahmins have got in on the act too. As well as glowing with a mysterious light, the blue tint is thought to repel insects. Modern Jodhpur stretches well beyond the city walls, but it’s the immediacy and buzz of the old Blue City and the larger-than life fort that capture travelers’ imaginations. This crowded, hectic zone is also Jodhpur’s main tourist area, and it often seems you can’t speak to anyone without them trying to sell you something.
That evening was spent having a world-class Indian dinner on the rooftop of a palace, which was built for a favorite mistress of the reigning king. The 360-degree views from the terrace were simply incredible…complete with an almost full
moon, it was breathtaking (see my photos of the interior furnishings). I was served a selection of dishes, vegetables and sauces all contained in small solid silver dishes which sat on a solid silver platter – can it get any better than this – I think not. It was first class all the way, and if this is how the emperors lived on a daily basis, sign me up!
Next morning before leaving Jodhpur, a stop was made at Jaswant Thada, a royal cenotaph built in 1899 in commemoration of this 33
rd king. It is an architectural marvel, built with expertly carved sheets of white marble, cut extremely thin, polished and carved in such a way that the outside surfaces emits a glow during daytime hours.
Another long day’s drive brought me to the southern-most city in Rajasthan – Udaipur and a stay at the Trident Hotel there. Besides shimmering Lake Pichola with the ochre and purple ridges of the wooded Aravalli Hills stretching away in every direction, Udaipur has a romance of setting unmatched in Rajasthan and arguably in all India. Fantastical palaces, temples and countless narrow, crooked, colorful streets add the human
counterpoint to the city’s natural charms. The city’s tag of ‘the most romantic spot on the continent of India’ was first applied in 1829 by Colonel James Tod, the East India Company’s first Political Agent in the region. Today the romance is wearing ever so slightly thin as Udaipur strains to exploit it for tourist rupees. In the parts of the city nearest the lake, almost every building is a hotel, shop, restaurant, travel agent – or all four rolled into one. Ever-taller hotels compete for the best view, too many mediocre restaurants serve up near-identical menus, and noisy, dirty traffic clogs some of the streets that were made for people and donkeys.
Take a step back from the hustle however and Udaipur still has its magic, not just in its marvelous palaces and monuments, but in its matchless setting, the tranquility of boat rides on the lake, the bustle of its ancient bazaars, its lively arts scene, the quaint old-world feel of its better hotels, its endless tempting shops and some lovely countryside to explore on wheels, feet or horseback.
Udaipur was founded in 1568 by Maharana Udai Singh II, following the final
sacking of Chittorgarh by the Mughal emperor Akbar. This new capital of Mewar had a much less vulnerable location than Chittorgarh, but Mewar still had to contend with repeated invasions by the Mughals and later the Marathas, until British intervention in the early 19th century. This resulted in a treaty that protected Udaipur from invaders while allowing Mewar’s rulers to remain effectively all-powerful in internal affairs. The ex-royal family remains influential and in recent decades has been the driving force behind the rise of Udaipur as a tourist destination.
The Ladies Garden (aka Garden of the Maidens) was the first stop of the morning. Originally laid out and developed for a group of 48 young women attendants, who accompanied a princess to Udaipur as part of her marriage dowry. The gardens which are set below the embankment of the Fateh Sagar Lake, have beautiful lotus pools, marble pavilions and elephant- shaped fountains. These fountains are fed by the water from the lake gushing through ducts and each water channel has its distinct sound; the mingling of these sounds complement the ambience of the place. It is definitely one of the most beautiful gardens and a major tourist
destination in Udaipur. The garden is famous for its lush green lawns, marble art and fountains, and was built from 1710 to 1734 by Maharana Sangram Singh for these royal ladies. According to local legend, the garden was designed by the king himself and he presented this garden to his queen.
Next up on my sightseeing agenda was the City Palace, an incredible complex structure which was built over a period of nearly 400 years, each successive king of the dynasty adding his own contributions.It’s located on the east bank of Lake Pichola and has several palaces built within its walls. The City Palace was built in a flamboyant style and is considered the largest of its type in Rajasthan. It’s a fusion of the Rajasthani and Mughal architectural styles, built on a hill top that gives a panoramic view of the city and its surrounding landscapes, including several historic monuments such as the Lake Palace in Lake Pichola, the Jag Mandir on another island in the lake, the Jagdish Temple close to the palace, the Monsson Palace on top of an overlooking hillock nearby and the Neemach Mata temple. These structures are linked to the filming
of the James Bond movie Octopussy, which features the Lake Palace and the Monsoon Palace. The subsequent publicity has resulted in the epithet of Udaipur as "Venice of the East”.
To complete this magical day in Udaipur, what better way is there than a lake cruise? Climbing aboard a 30-passenger motor launch, spent the next hour cruising this marvelous body of water and of course, the weather cooperated. The mercury climbed into the low 90’s, with a cool breeze off the water and cloudless blue skies. It was a marvelous opportunity to take the most incredible photos of the above-noted buildings surrounding the lake (yet another valid reason to browse ALL my photos included with this blog….LOL). Then it was time to check into my hotel for the night….the Trident Udaipur located on the shores of Lake Pichola…and another fabulous addition to the Oberoi Hotel Chain.
My flight on to Mumbai was leaving early from the local airport, which required an ungodly early departure from the hotel. By 4am I had completed my packing, checked out and with packed box breakfast in hand, it was a 45-minute drive to connect with my domestic flight.
Mumbai is
BIG. It’s full of dreamers and hard-laborers, starlets and gangsters, stray dogs and exotic birds, artists and servants, fisher folk and millionaires, and lots and lots of people. It has India’s most prolific film industry, some of Asia’s biggest slums (as well as the worlds most expensive home, currently appraised at approximately one Billion dollars) and the largest tropical forest in an urban zone. Mumbai is India’s financial powerhouse, fashion epicenter and a pulse point of religious tension. It’s even evolved its own language, Bambaiyya Hindi, which is a mix of…everything.
If Mumbai is your introduction to India, prepare yourself. The city isn’t a threatening place but its furious energy, limited public transport and punishing pollution makes it challenging for visitors. The heart of the city contains some of the grandest colonial-era architecture on the planet but explore a little more and you’ll uncover unique bazaars, hidden temples, hipster enclaves and India’s premier restaurants and nightlife.
A gargantuan, pulsating metropolis that reinvents itself every time you blink, Mumbai is India’s most modern and most happening city. The best entertainment spots, the liveliest cultural melting pots, the yummiest meals at
the most trendy cafés or the latest designer threads gracing the most beautiful people – Mumbai is where you'll find them. Indeed, the city is getting a make-over unlike anything India has seen before, with more than 15 'supertalls' – trade slang for skyscrapers over 900’ high – under construction in the northern suburbs.
India tosses up the unexpected. This can be challenging particularly for a first-time visitor (me)… the poverty is confronting, Indian bureaucracy can be exasperating and the crush of humanity may turn the simplest task into a frazzling epic. Even veteran travelers (me) find their nerves frayed at some point; yet this is all part of the India ride. With an ability to inspire, frustrate, thrill and confound all at once, adopting a 'go with the flow' attitude is wise, if retaining sanity is a goal. Love it or loathe it – and most tourists see-saw between the two…..to embrace India's unpredictability is to embrace her soul.
This is my last day in this unexpected but simply wonderful country – my flights home to Las Vegas leave at 2:30am tomorrow and in less than 36 hours, I’ll once again
be walking into my house, dropping bags on the floor, sorting thru 3 weeks of collected mail…..finally, I’m back on American soil!
And where does this gypsy go next? Well, as always, you will have to “stay tuned” for the next installment which will be uploaded by the end of March…..here’s a hint: it’s also in Asia…..
Cheers.
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Camille
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Favorite Pic
I love all the animal pics, but I think this is my favorite!!! WOW!