India days 9 - 11

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Days 9 - 11 (14/01/12 to 16/01/12)


Not been well so I haven't done much this last few days. Got a 1hr full body massage for 350Rs (about £4), did a whole load of shopping having decided to try to sell some of India's wares at the craft fairs I do back home. Have found the experience of shopping much more enjoyable here.



There is less pressure to buy and if you look to buy larger numbers you are invited in to chat and drink chai as you negotiate the price. The kindest shop clerk I have met is Raj who sold me numerous scarves for a very good price and even gave me one free. He has offered to walk me and Ben (who arrived yesterday) up to the temple on the top of the hill to watch the sunrise and also to teach us Hindi. I believe he is the most genuine person I have met on my travels. He has never been to school and sees money only as a means to an end. Family and friends are what matters to him. We talked for some time and I agreed to come back the following day as his friend (who makes the best masala chai) in Pushkar has agreed to sell me some of the mixture. Some parts of Pushkar smell like heaven as the scent of masala chai wafts from cafes into the street and incense fills the air but almost immediately after breathing in this heaven scent, your nostrils are assaulted by the strong odour of mens urine and cows shit. You have to enjoy the wonderful smells with caution. Do not breathe too deeply.



As I walked contentedly down the street today I found a handful of rose petals thrust into my hand without invitation. There were two men posing (I believe) as Brahmins. Unwittingly I followed them down to the ghats at the lakes edge. I had read about these people who parade themselves as Brahmins and after taking you through some false ceremony at the waters edge try to extort money from you and call it a donation. They claim that the ritual will bring good karma to you and your family. I find that no matter how much I want to thrw th petals o the loor nd just walk away (as I hate being misled), it is almost as though I am transfixed. Even when sat on the ghats haing removed my shoes, I do not have the power to get up and walk away. The whole experience felt like a violation and left me with a horrible sensation afterwards. I ripped off the thread he had tied around my wrist and wiped away the paint on my head. I only gave 100Rs which is very little in real terms but I was left feeling so angry about the whole ordeal.

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