More travels in India

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I'm writing this from Pushkar, since my last posting I have travelled from Rhanthambore National Park to Jaipur and then to Pushkar.

On the way from Rhanthambore to Jaipur, Juan - our travel-mate - suggested that we leave the main road and visit a more isolated small village away from the highway. We had been driving through innumerable roadside villages, but we wanted to see a smaller one. Our driver turned off onto an unpaved road, drove about 2 km and entered a very small village. When the four of us got out of the car, we were suddenly the centre of attention and were soon surrounded by children as well as adults. We were invited into a home, consisting of mud huts around a compound. The village was basic, but clean. The villagers were fairly well dressed, certainly better than many of the beggars we had seen in larger towns. The family offered us milk. Jamie and I accepted, mainly from fear of insulting them, but naturally we were worried about contacting a gastro-intestinal bug. (Later turned out fine). By this time we had about 100 people surrounding us, all smiles and friendliness. Connie, the group photographer, got excellent photos of the host family and friends, and wrote down an address so we could send them photos after we get home. A very nice experience; what friendly people! (Connie made a small donation to the mother for the children).

Later we arrived in the very chaotic, dusty mayhem of Jaipur, a city of 2.4 M and capital of the state of Rajastan. The traffic was at least as disordered as Delhi, but with Camels and Elephants thrown in for good measure. For reasons that I cannot explain, we did not observe any deaths, dismemberments, disembowelments or any other traffic incident.

Jaipur has many interesting monuments, forts, palaces, a rich history of Maharajas and Moughal influence. We enjoyed seeing the sights, but in general we find the colour and dynamics of Indian life more interesting. The great thing about this country is that so many people can speak English, even if it is often rudimentary. We find it is easy to interact with the local people as a result. We are finding that travel is convenient and satisfying, but having hired a car and driver, we are dispensing with the complication of public transport, finding hotels and restaurants and other logistical requirement that in a 3 week holiday I can do without. Sharing the small car with another couple has made this quite economical. If not spacious.

Yesterday we stopped to watch colourfully dressed women in an open area, de-husking (?) red chilies, which had been dumped from nearby field. Another European woman, travelling alone but in the same way, with a hired car and driver also came out to have a look (the scene was colourful). She asked us why we were travelling four in such a small car. I told her it was because we couldn't fit in a fifth.

The people have been great, but it is sad to see the extent of poverty and land degradation. Large areas have been over-grazed, and underbrush picked clean for firewood. In the evenings we see women carrying large masses of small brush (bani) from the outlying areas to their homes in the village. Thank goodness for the national parks - what few there are - preserving a little of what is left.

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