The Land of Forts, Camels and Moustaches!!!

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With palaces that still evoke the splendour of their imperial past and the Thar Desert’s never-ending sand dunes that appear like golden-hued paintings, there's no shortage of places to visit in Rajasthan. The Land of Kings, Rajasthan is well known for its stunning heritage sites, luxurious hotels, scenic lakes and desert stretches that look straight out of Arabian Nights. Hop on a camel to explore Jaisalmer's fabled dunes, sail on Mount Abu's Nakki Lake on a paddleboat, dinner at Udaipur’s lake palace or have an inimitable indulgence viewing the hawelis and forts of Jodhpur - Rajasthan's palette of unparalleled experiences is kaleidoscopic. Having already travelled to Jaipur, Ajmer, Pushkar, Udaipur and Mt. Abu, I decided to spend my week this time amidst the forts of Jodhpur and sand dunes of Jaisalmer. An overnight Volvo journey took me to Rajasthan’s second largest city, Jodhpur. (You can also chose to travel by rail or air). Also known as the blue city, Jodhpur is an architecture-lover's feast for sore eyes. I checked in at one of the oldest hotels of Jodhpur, The Rajputana palace. Quickly I took a cab and headed to visit the famous forts, lakes and palaces.

The Umaid Bhawan Palace Museum is divided into three functional parts - a luxury Taj Palace Hotel, the residence of the owner's royal family, and a Museum focusing on the 20th century history of the Jodhpur Royal Family. Located at the top of a hill, the Umaid Bhawan Palace museum (ticket for INR 30 for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners) is very well maintained, displaying an exclusive range of items belonging to the Maharaja and the royal family. It displays a range of items ranging from weapons to an array of stuffed leopards to antiques to some fascinating crockery and an amazing collection of clocks and trophies. Apart from this, one will also find Royal Jodhpur Shops for small Rajasthani souvenirs.

The older historic section of the city of Jodhpur is located around the grand Mehrangarh Fort which is bounded by a wall and several gates. It is situated on a 150 m high hill and was founded by Rao Jodha in 1459. The weather was just perfect! The gentle winter sun allowed me to walk around exploring the magnificent fort even at 2 pm. A ticket of INR 60 and camera ticket for INR 100 took me inside the very spirit of

the Rathores- The fort of Mehrangarh. I walked through the rear gate known as the Jai Pol. The fortifications provide not only excellently preserved canons also a breath-taking view of the city. The beautiful folk songs played by street musicians in the backdrop carried an exotic feel in itself. The fort of Mehrangarh portrays its own architectural features, such as narrow staircases leading to the royal residence, carved panels and ornately decorated walls. Within the fort, several brilliantly crafted and decorated palaces are found. Of these, Moti Mahal, Phool Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Chokhelao Mahal and Daulat Khana overwhelmed me the most. The various buildings inside the fort now serve as Mehrangarh museum of Rajasthan now which hosts a well preserved collection of musical instruments, palanquins, furniture and cannons. The Daulat Khana is a repository of the artistic and cultural history of the Marwar ruled by the Rathore dynasty. Right beneath the Phool Mahal, the Daulat Khanaa displays one of the most important and best preserved collections of fine and applied arts of the Mughal period of Indian history. The silk tent made of red and gold brocade was striking. Adjacent to it is the Jhanki Mahal that houses a rich collection of the royal cradles decorated with mirrors and animal figures. The last was the Armoury that displays a rare collection of armour from every period in Jodhpur. Also displayed are sword hilts in jade, silver, horn, ivory etc.

After a 2 hour glide though the royal fort, I grabbed some snacks at the Mehran Café, situated on the way to the roof top of the fort. They have a decent spread of dishes and cater to both Indian as well as the foreign taste buds. It has got a traditional touch inside with all staff dressed up in a typical Rajasthani attire and portraits of Rajput Kings hanging on their wall. A must visit if hungry at the fort! I then walked down the fort towards the exit into a hall for some ethnic shopping and picked up a stole of the famous Rajasthani Indigo print and a pair of Juti. The Fort offers quiet spots for contemplation and fantastic scenic spots for photography. As for those interested in culture, design and history, the fort offers it all.

To the left of the Mehrangarh Fort complex is the Jaswant Thada, a royal tribute built in commemoration of the 33rd Rathore ruler of Jodhpur. The Jaswant Thada is a white marble memorial, built out of intricately carved sheets of marble. The main memorial has been built like a temple with beautiful dome and sculpture. The splendid structure is a perfect example of Rajputana style of architecture. Its impeccable design and architecture is symbolic of the fine craftsmanship of the bygone era. The memorial faces a beautiful lush green lawns, a small lake and street musicians playing folk music under a shady tree- a perfect spot.

8 kms to the west of Jodhpur is this picturesque Kaylana lake with scenic mountain view. The lake faces a park and offers a seamless spot for bird watching. A perfect place to relax after an exhausting tour of the forts. I enjoyed the evening with some chai and chaat.

Sadar Bazaar is known as one of the most vibrant markets of Jodhpur. I wandered amongst the tiny shop and could grasp the life and colour of the Marwar people. One can shop for the jewellery, wedding clothes, steel utensils and most importantly spices. The market had an entire lane of spice market displaying a plethora of spices and flavoured tea. The lane was swarming with foreign tourists curiously picking up spices to take back to their country. I entered into a shop name Mohanlal Verhomal spices that had put on show a range of spices used in Indian cooking. With a very good welcome and explanation from the owner, I learnt about these spices and about their cultivation in Rajasthan. I picked up a packet of my favourite Ginger tea and cooking spice like coriander powder, garam masala and elaichi for my mom.

To mark the end of my stay at Jodhpur, I finally went to Rajasthali, a Rajasthan Govt. emporium. The emporium showcased various textiles, jewellery, furniture, carpets, Jutis, quilts, paintings and the famous blue pottery. I chose a lovely Bandhani or Bandhej kurta, bandhej being their most exquisite and colourful form of textile. Also, the Meenakari jewellery which are mostly enamelled gold and silver jewellery are a very popular form ranging from INR 2000 and above. For my love for accessories, I bought a beautiful pair of blue meenakari jhumka.

After a sumptuous meal at the hotel, I decided to take some sleep and gear up for my next destination, Jaisalmer!!! The road from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer (about 300 kms) was rather desolate but calm in its own solitude. Barren lands, small shrubs, glaring sun, the smell of sand and little tea shops on the way-a sign that I had entered the desert land. December was a perfect time as the weather was brilliant and the calm breeze with the sunshine just made it impeccable. A cup of tea along with it was a cherry on the cake!

This exotic “Golden City" is most famous for the 12th-century fort and ornate hawelis, fine merchant-built houses and pavilions in the city’s mediaeval lanes.

Made of yellow sandstone, the grandeur and the architecture of the Patwon Ki Haweli add immense value to the cultural heritage of the city. Currently, this haweli is maintained by the state government, which uses it for different official purposes. The boundary encompasses five historical hawelis in a row (one of these five has been converted into a museum- entry fee for Indians is INR 20). The haweli displays marvellous architecture that speaks loud of the culture of Rajasthan. The complex also has a small free market where one can buy the famous Rajasthani dolls, silver accessories, turbans and also show pieces. I picked up a few pairs of silver danglers and an orange turban, just right to fit into the royal land!

Decorated with miniature paintings, the Nathmal Ji Ki Haweli’s facade has fine detailing and carvings. As learnt from the people around, the main chamber of this mansion is carved out of rock and the entire frontage of the first floor is carved out of one solitary boulder. The most interesting aspect of this haweli is the drawing of modern amenities such as cars, fans etc. that the architects engraved just with the mere help of their descriptions. This haweli is still home to the decedents of the King and stands near to the Patwa Hawelis. The Gadisar Lake in Jaisalmer was the chief water source of the city where rainwater was harvested. There are nicely designed temples and shrines located by the side of the lake. One can also opt for short boat rides at the lake or shop for small souvenirs.

I would say no trip to Jaisalmer is complete without a visit to the Sam Sand Dunes. Sam is around 40 kms from Jaisalmer toward the Indo-Pak border. The LOC is another 60 kms from Sam, at the edge of the Desert National Safari. The 40 kms stretch to sam was a land of magnificent expanse of sweeping dunes shining golden as the sun makes its way on the horizon, gaily decorated camels and sparse vegetation. Camel rides and jeep safaris are much in vogue here. I chose to hop onto a camel cart, ready to loose myself in the great Thar Desert. I took a ride till the sun set point and then further to the edge of the Desert National Park. Camel rides at the till the Desert national park costed me INR 1000. The ride until there was enchanting and mesmerizing. The view of the vast spread of the Thar Desert was unmatched and so was the view at sunset. I got down off the camel and took a bare footed walk along the intense swirling winds. I later enjoyed a traditional dinner with bon fire and folk performance at local inn nearby. Experiencing the wide expanse of the desert, the ethereal magic of sunset and a lively Rajasthani entertainment made for a splendid evening to remember.

The next morning I headed to a lesser known place called the Khuri Village, some 10 kms ahead of Sam. Khuri is a small village, less crowded and a different experience that displays the stillness of the desert. Khuri has escaped commercialization and the hordes that visit the sand dunes. The sand dunes of Thar Desert can be reached from the village within 30 minutes if you are travelling by a vehicle. Traditional mud houses and the peaceful ambience, for me where the main highlights of Khuri. Khuri also provides several homestays in houses made of mud and straw. I spent the afternoon idling in the sun, walking through the village and relishing authentic Rajasthan Daal Baati Churma, Gatta and Ker sangria.

Rajasthan’s life bursting with colour and grandeur pleases me every time I visit this state!!! Visit the cities of Jodhpur and Jaisalmer and rediscover India!

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Photos

Inside the Mehrangarh Fort- The Moti Mahal

NATHMAL JI KI HAWELI
Lady selling traditional jewellery outside Nathmal Ji ki Haweli

RAJA HINDUSTANI
The camel I rode on!