Jodhpur

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We took the overnight train from Khajuraho to Delhi, spent the day in Delhi, brought some more clothes, then caught another over night train to Jodphur. Jodphur is in the state of Rajastan, we have heard good things about this area, mostly being more laid back, relax vibe, good food and good guest houses. As we got in early morning on the 16th we thought be easier to leave our bags at the train station, so we are less likely to be stalked and savaged by awaiting touts and tuk tuks, walk around Jodhpur at our leisure to find a decent guest house then come back later to collect our bags. We tried a few places in the old town which seemed alright, good price but we wanted something a bit nicer. Jodphur is known for its blue city and the huge fort that over shadows Jodhpur. We started to walk towards the fort which is up hill. We came across a guest house called Hill Side View and as the name suggest it is built into the hill side and overlooks the city below. For the first time we saw the guest house was run by a woman. She showed us two rooms which we managed to negotiate a great price for the better room as we were staying 4 nights. The room was huge, CLEAN, good shower and had views of the fort and over the city. Outside our door is a big patio area and restaurant so you can sit out watch over the city and just enjoy the place. It is the best place we have stayed so far and so laid back we love it here!! That evening we walked up to the fort and across to catch a glimpse of the sunset which was beautiful. We met a NZ guy called Al who told us about a great place to eat and cheap at Hare Krisna hotel. We joined him that evening and tried the stuffed pepper and Malai Kofta (stuffed potato) it was covered in rich sauce and really was the best Indian food we have tried so far – yummy!
The next day we did a tour around the Meherangarg fort. Which is sprawled over a 100 meter high hill We pay RS300pp (approx £4) plus Rs150 to take a camera with you. The price included an audio tour so we set off walking around the fort. India is full of forts but this is the first one I have ever been in and I loved it. Really interesting, great 360 degree views over the city. You can see evidence of cannon ball marks from the fighting that went on here. There was also tiny hand print marks on the walls left by the widows Maharaja Man Singh just before they killed themselves onto his funeral pyre in 1843 Very sad..
That evening we decided to try a different restaurant – Yogis guest house, took over an hour for a our food to come and really was not that great. Thing with India is you do get bad service compared to back home but once you understand how they are you do not even notice after a while. Terry is constantly running down to the kitchen to grab drinks, pay our bill, even taking our order as sometimes if you wait for a waiter to appear you would wait all night. If you are after efficient table service then India really is not the place, however most travellers we have spoken to do not tip so maybe this is the reason!?!
18/10/11
As the trains get pretty full and only a small number of stations allow you to book tourist quota (if a train is full and you are a tourist then there is a different quota that you can still book a seat on a train, they reserve seats for tourists only) then whilst in Delhi we decided to book our onward travel which was to Udaiphur however the train route is not direct with a transfer in the middle so all in all would take nearly 10 hours. We realised that you could catch a private bus from Jodphur to Udaiphur in a lot less time and lot less money so decided to cancel our train ticket. As long as you cancel a ticket more then 24 hours before departure then you only have to pay a charge of RS60pp. We have now decided to stay an extra day in Jodphur and catch the bus on Friday 21st.
Whilst I was changing the train tickets at the station, Terry started chatting to a young Indian guy. I had brought some Ali Baber style trousers whilst in Delhi which to me look like the old MC Hammer trousers, all baggy in the middle. Well my trousers had lots of different symbols on; birds, flowers but what I did not realise was that one of the signs was for Hindu religion. This young man in the station told Terry I should change my trousers as it is not my symbol. Terry came up and told me what the man had said so I went up to him to ask him what the problem was. He said my symbol is the cross and I should not wear the Hindu sign. I promptly informed him that he should not presume what symbol I am and in fact I have no symbol as I am not religious. Walking back to the guest house through all the markets I could see my trousers that I had brought everywhere for sale. I decided to ask the Hindu man in the internet café if it was insulting to his religion to where my trousers. He said not at all as they are very popular trousers and in way it is nice for me to wear Indian clothes and it is a sign of respect. Hmm I am a little worried now about wearing my trousers so decided to buy a new pair (any excuse). At Rs.150 (£2) it is no big loss but still I will think a bit more carefully now before I wear them again as really do not want to upset anybody.
Afterwards we wondered around the markets, the vendors are a lot less pushy then in the bigger cities we have been to so was nice to be able to browse without constant hassle. There are lots of little lanes you can wonder up and down with the main landmark of the old city being the clock tower. From here you can browse lots of markets stalls. Just like in Varanasi there are lots of bulls wondering the streets. We are used to them now and never think twice about walking passed a huge bull. Terry and I were talking to one of the shop owners when out of no where a bull wonders down the road, walks right up behind Terry head butts his bum and walks off. We were in total shock It did not hurt Terry but was still bit worrying as up until now the bulls have never gone nearer us let a lone made a bee line for Terry's bum (never touched me!!). Anyway couple of hours later we wonder back to the guest house and we see the same bull again, once again Terry walks past and the bull tries to shove Terry's butt again – haha, we now are given the bulls a very wide berth!! However one of the shopkeepers said it is meant to be good luck if you are butted by a cow so now Terry has double good luck...

19/10/11
Today we went to see Jaswant Thada. This is a white washed palace about 1km from the fort. Only cheap to get in but it is set in nice grounds and it is pretty high up so again nice views over the city. Not much inside as it is not very big. We then spent the afternoon wondering around town and saw another temple the other side of the city which is on a very thin, pile of rocks. We went to investigate, found the caretaker of the temple in the street who we randomly asked for directions who insisted we follow him. I am always suspicious so started to say it is alright just point to the correct way but he insisted on taking us. He unlocked the doors and we followed him in. The temple is tiny and high up on this mound of rocks that I am sure have been placed there especially for the temple. You have to climb up thin, metal stairs that were very shaky to the top. As we climbed it felt a lot more windier the higher we got and the ladders were more vertical as well so we turned back. The guy insisted he wanted no money and was just happy to show us around. So much for my suspicious mind but trust me that is unusual here!
As we were wondering around the streets Terry got pooped on by a bird, I could not believe it. He was wearing a bandana so was not really covered in it but again that is meant to be good luck, I am sure of it, so now with 3 good luck signs I am sure we will win the lottery Saturday!!!
On our last night we brought a couple of beers from the off license, well more a shack on the main road which has been turned into a tiny make shift bar where you can find some Indian men having a beer or two behind a curtain. We brought a couple of Kingfisher bottles to take back to our hotel. Kingfisher is the cheap Indian beer. We normally get the Light Kingfisher which is 4-5% (yes it does state 4-5% as guess every bottle varies). Many Indians buy the Strong Kingfisher which is 8-9% as they say it's better value for money as you get drunk quicker. Guess there is some logic there. So far we have been paying around RS70 for a 600ml bottle which is just under a £1 from the street vendor.
The Caste system in India still very much exists even though with newer generations the system has weakened. Caste is the basic social structure of Hindu Society. Hindus try and live a righteous life and by fulfilling your moral duty, they believe betters your chances of being born into a higher caste which means better circumstances. There are 4 castes; Brahmin (priests and teachers), Kshatriya (warriors), Vaishyas (merchants), and Shrudra (labourers). Then beneath these 4 main castes are Dalits (sweepers,cleaners). Within each castes there are families/socials communities divided up that fit under each caste. A person is only meant to marry within the same caste. In Jodphur many of the houses are painted blue because this was meant to signify a Brahmin home but I am sure it is for tourists too nowadays as well. The Brahmin caste (I am not sure about the other castes) are not allowed to drink alcohol, eat eggs or meat so most menus you will not see alcohol on there however most of the restaurants will tell you they have a secret stash of beer, normally around Rs130 for a bottle of Kingfisher then when they give you your bill they right down Pepsi instead to disguise the fact you had beer.

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Photos

Bull and Tuk Tuk
Just like the one that butted Terry

Bull and roudabout
Just eating and providing a roundabout at the same time

Hill View Guest House
and Kate

Sunrise
View from our guest house, 6.25am and yes we got up!

Camel
Awaiting to give tourists a ride..