I saw a mouse, where, there on the stair, the carriage, the cafe

---

We took an overnight train to Delhi. We had ordered an evening meal which didn't turn up until 10.00pm by which time I had given up and gone to bed! We have established finally that the little thinga running around the carriages are mice. Oh joy, I decamped to the top bunk. Neither of us slept particularly well and having not eaten, once we got to Delhi we checked our luggage into the rat infested cloakroom and headed off into the city. We decided as we were catching an onward train to Amritsar we would order some takeaway food from the rather excellent cafe we had our meal in.

Oh dear oh dear, it can only happen to us!!!

We rescued our luggage from the rats and boarded the train to Amritsar. We had only been on there half an hour when we were served juice, followed by mineral water. Another half an hour later we were served high tea, consisting on a samosa, sandwich, desert and tea! I glanced down at the tray to see that they served dinner too, but we figured that wouldn't happen. But sure enough it did. So our feeling of being quite clever by bringing on food to eat as the evening wore on was starting to leave us with a little bit of a sinking feeling! For dinner we were served with tomato soup, dhal, rice and a mushroom dish. Followed by Walls Ice cream! Our takeaway remained untouched and left on the train. Ah well!

The scenery was stunning, we have never seen so many paddi fields. They ranged from all stages of growth and different depths of green. Women work the fields in highly coloured saris and men walk the fields. They are hayrick like structures which I think are rice plants after they have been harvested. They are scattered across the whole of the landscape, and are dome shaped.

Amritsar is an amazing place. We had a hotel minutes walk from the temple and we spent a few hours taking in the temple. As you enter you have to remove your shoes and wash your feet. There are many pilgrims and few tourists here. The whole atmosphere is relaxed and serene. Many people stopped to talk to us and have photos taken. The temple itself is beautiful. The gold dome set against the white carved marble, the bright coloured saris and turbans all reflecting in the water is an image and an experience we will never forget. There is no rushing to get anywhere, you just go at your own speed. Pilgrims bathe in the water whilst life carries on around them.

The temple is set amid many tiny streets, which like everywhere else if packed full of rickshaws, cars, bikes and people - it is an oasis of calm.

In the evening we headed over to Attari for the closing ceremony at the border between India and Pakistan. We sat in the VIP area and waited for about an hour and a half before it started. However there was lots going on. Guards walked up and down, and then women and children were selected to run with two Indian flags upto the gates and back. Finally two men took the flags, ran upto the gates and then came to the top of the VIP area to wave the flags in Pakistans direction. Then women and children danced to traditional music while the compere hyped up the crowd even more. The crowds on both sides sing, chant and wave flags all in the setting sun. In the background we could see the guards limbering up for the showdown. And finally it started. About half a dozen of them came out. Much shouting and bugle playing took place and then the guards marched out in front of us. One by one they took it in turns, to stride, run and stomp as fast and as hard as possible upto the gates marking the border. Much fist clenching, head waggling and eyes bulging takes place, which all looks fantastic with the red concertined red plumes on their turbans. Of course Pakistans Guards do the same. Finally the last guard marches up, the gates open and a perfunctory handshake between India and Pakistan takes place. Then the flags of India and Pakistan are taken down at equal speed, the gates closed, and the flags marched back to the guardroom. That's it - all over - until the next day and the crowds go home!!

It was electric and worth every minute of sitting there in the sweltering heat. A fantastic day all round!

---