It's a family affair

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The 5.00am bus to Puri was jam packed - the conductor adopting the usual ploy of allowing all comers and cramming as many people as possible into the available space, and more. With that number of bodies in that cramped a space it was insufferably hot, even with the sun barely risen. We arrived two hours later drenched in sweat, covered in dust, and looking forward to a shower.
Puri is both a popular beach resort and a place of pilgrimage for Indians, having had its heyday with Westerners in the 70s when 'freaks' were hitting the overland trail to India. This was where we had arranged to meet up with Jess and Bert. We found a guest house near the beach, greeted the resident cockroaches and breakfasted in its pleasant garden which hosted a small population of curious green lizards sporting bright red heads and long tails pointing skywards. The road near our hotel had the usual strip of shops for Westerners and restaurants offering 'multicuisine' and 'full English breakfast', but it wasn't as full on as Varkala or Mamallapuram and anyway the season had ended. It was too hot for us whiteys.So, the street was mainly full of Indian pilgrims, auto and cycle rickshaws touting plaintively for business, and locals just going about their daily lives.
The beach itself looked OK; however, the current - rip - was very strong, and there was a river, milky and smelling strongly of drains, that flowed into the sea below us. Because the current ran along the beach it brought the outflow with it, rather than out to sea. So not hugely tempting. Camel and horse rides were available on the beach, as were the very strangely attired coastguards who wore woven conical hats not unlike babys' bonnets.
Jess and Bert arrived two days later on the 6th April. It was lovely to see them, (John had last seen them when they took us to Hassocks Station at the start of our journey back in August) and after settling in, our induction ceremony was performed with a welcome pack of lunghis to wear, coconut oil to anoint, tiger balm balm to heal and silk bed liners to slip into at night!
The following day, after the pre-requisite swim for those who dared, we went to the main Puri Temple, Shri Jaganath. Non Hindus are not allowed inside but there is a private library opposite and for a 'small fee' one can view it from the roof. The library itself was quite atmospheric with an open walled room with special display cabinets, some filled with books and others with manuscripts, probably on palm leaf. A couple of long tables provided a place to read the dailies. There was not a lot to see from the roof other than the big spires of the main temples in the centre of the complex, and the backs of some very large advertising hoardings srategically placed to obstruct the view!
The deities that the temple is dedicated to are unlike any that we've seen anywhere else in India. Jaganath is a form of Krishna, with his sister, Subadra, and brother, Balhbadra, and are depicted in a very primtive, almost tribal style. They are shown with huge saucer eyes and vestigial limbs, and not unlike the kid's characters from, "South Park". The eyes are painted like WW2 fighter plane wing transfers, giving the gods a rather haunted, empty look
The next day we hired mopeds and headed north to visit the famous Sun Temple in Konark. The road was lovely, very quiet, and we passed through a wildlife reserve. The landscape was at times wooded, but interspersed with a semi-desert scrub. Orissa, as much as we had seen, embodied a vision of India - rural, agricultural, poor, beautiful, hot, 'backward' and flat.Whenever we stopped for chai etc. we were greeted warmly and seen as novelties, judging from the general response. Jess and Bert bore the brunt of the curiousity, which was a relief, as well as a jolt to our narcissistic tendencies!
About half way there we started looking for a place on the beach for a swim. It proved harder than first imagined, as there was a lagoon separating the beach from the mainland, and it was not possible to get across. We eventually managed to find a rickety footbridge at the very end of the lagoon, and crossed it onto a hot and deserted beach. Truly idyllic until we got into the water and found the rip too strong. Such frustration! Fortunately the current eased considerably a few hundred yards up the beach, and we had some excellent body surfing.
The Sun Temple was one of the finest stone carved temples we've seen. Built in the 13th B.C.E. it takes the form of the chariot of Surya, the sun god. It is 'drawn' by seven horses, on 12 sets of wheels. Each wheel is about 15 feet in diameter. The entrance is guarded by 2 lions, each shown crushing an elephant which in turn is seen crushing a human figure. At the entrance there is a dancing hall, where temple dancers would perform in homage to Surya. The whole complex is covered with human and divine forms, many engaged in erotic naughtiness! Much of it is ruins, though some of is now being restored, and the central chamber has been filled in to prevent it collapsing in on itself. What remains is exquisite, with such fine and detailed carving -though some a little too detailed if you ask us!.........
The 10th April was Good Friday and John's birthday. We took off on the mopeds again, this time to go in search of the 'rare Irrawaddy dolphin'(try saying that with a mouthful of crackers) which live in Chilka Lake, 'Asia's largest brackish lagoon'. It was the most beautiful route, going through villages of thatch and mud set in landscapes of flat cultivated land with villagers busily harvesting the straw remains of a crop and using it to re- thatch, presumably against the forthcoming monsoon.Then on to more estuarine land with small patches of water with partially submerged buffalo escaping the heat, and bright pink lotuses; with thatched bamboo houses in the distance built on stilts.
Eventually we reached the north end of Chilka and hired a boat. The boat was a version of the primitive hand made, plank built canoes to be seen wherever we've been on the east or west coasts. Ours was painted royal blue with a canopy against the sun and an outboard attached to an extra long propeller. It seemed nothing short of a miracle that it was watertight! However, in we clinbed and set off on our '3 hour dolphin red crab and sea mouth excursion'.
We weren't the only sailors in the sea by a long chalk, and the ride out was uneventful. However, at a point about an hour out, the dolphins appeared, breaching and disappearing. We saw quite a few, and they certainly looked different, with their heads giving them the look of miniature sperm whales. So we had seen the 'rare Irawaddies' , and after a swim and a languid cruise were heading back to dock when we ran out of petrol, so we had to punt ourselves in.
When we got back to the landing stage the tide had receded enough to expose the mud flats. At first sight it looked as if the mud itself was alive; and only when we looked closely did we see that what was actually moving were mud skippers: amphibious fish that have adapted their lateral fins to 'walk' on land. Another equally weird species to emerge from the mud were the fiddler crabs: tiny crabs with one gigantic claw that seemed completely out of proportion to their diminutive bodies. It was mesmerising to see these strange creatures, quite unlike anything we'd ever seen before.
Back in Puri, we went to the Railway Hotel for a birthday celebration as it was reported to have 'character' as well as a proper billiards table. It was all true, but unfortunately the place was being renovated and the billiard table was under wraps.
For pudding, we hit the Honey Bee Cafe, where a birthday cake was waiting, then back to the ranch for a hand of Gin Rummy. A lovely,unique birthday.
We left Puri two days later and headed north by bus (again, an unbearably hot journey) to another coastal destination. It was so hot that being near the sea was essential, being able to take a dip and take advantage of any sea breeze. Also Jess and Bert, coming from a long hard winter in the UK, wanted a seaside holiday. Chandipur is a very small dusty resort with four hotels, five shops (all selling the same shell mirrors and decorations) a couple of chai and pan stalls, and the sea. When the tide goes out, it goes out for 5km, and can only just be seen as a glint on the horizon. It was an impressive stretch of flat land between the high and low watermark. People could be seen in the far distance as tiny wavering specks, having not yet reached the water's edge.Unfortunately, even at high tide, the sea is barely waist deep.
The area is a protected site for the Olive Ridley turtle and the Horseshoe crab and we spent a productive afternoon beach combing. We found Horseshoe crab shells, the remains of these amazing prehistoric creatures, related to trilobites, with bronze, articulated shells, looking like something out of Star Wars. We also found many bones, most likely from turtles and dolphins, and some lovely shells, too: cone shaped, egg shaped, and pairs of mussel-like shells in dazzling colours. We also came upon a turtle skull. Some locals were collecting shells in industrial quantities, most likely for industrial use.
There are several other species of crab found here that burrowed and came out of their holes to sift through the damp sand for food. Some were bright red, while others where pale translucent brown.Some very small ones make the most wonderful patterns - whorls and spirals - with tiny balls of rolled up sand. They're very precise, and when others are close the patterns all link up to form remarkable designs, rather like abstract Australian aboriginal paintings. It was a pleasant, quiet spot, marred only by the fact that just beyond the beach was a missile testing range, and the area reverberated to the sound of enormous explosions throughout the day.
It was time to move on to Kolkata with a view to organising a trip from there to the Sunderbans, the world's biggest mangrove forest that is part of the the world's largest river delta, the Ganges. It's home to the largest concentration of tigers on the planet, and they are unusual in also being good swimmers.
On the 15th April we took a short train ride into Kolkata. It is a huge and hectic dity and the traffic is insane; at least the driving is. But there are perks i.e. the air con shrines of Cafe Coffee Day and Barista!
We were seriously disadvantaged by the weather - and at one stage, after 5 days, we heard we were experiencing a heatwave.. With temperatures of 40+ and humidity at 90% any movement produced dripping sweat and soaked clothing. One's will to live was seriously challenged! Fortunately, our hotel was very decent, with good showers and quiet, functioning fans...
What was also very stressfull was the constant approaches by beggars, rickshaw drivers, and shopkeeper's 'touts' - hired to draw you into a shop or market. As we had to often pass by a big market complex, they were difficult to avoid.
In the event, we decided against going to the Sunderbans. In order to do the area justice we would need to do a trip of four or five days, and Jess and Bert didin't really have the time, and we didn't really have the money for such a trip - so that will have to be shelved for another time. So, we did some sightseeing instead.
We took the Metro - very clean and efficient - out to the Kali Temple. A 'priest' guide swooped on us as soon as we went through the entrance gate, and having said that the temple was out of bounds to Christians and Muslims, proceeded to say that we should take our sandals off, wash our hands and come with him and he'd show us around, for a fee, of course. The temple precincts were dirty and chaotic , as ever, with garland makers and puja offerings of cakes and coconuts and flowers for sale. In one corner, goats were being slaughtered, and a dog was slinking off trailing intestines. About 15 are killed every day, more on special occasions. We were given a spray of flowers and told to throw some into the sacred space in front of the statue of Kali, and to place more on the Shiva Lingam. Then we were taken to the bloody mounds where the carcasses of goats ( and sometimes buffalo) were laid to be blessed - the floor was awash with blood, and the mounds sticky and smelly - not for the faint hearted, especially with bare feet! We were then taken to the bathing ghat, where we took part in a little ritual as couples - John and Penny first, followed by Jess and Bert. We were told to cup our hands together witha hibiscus flower, and were blessed repeatedly, and after walking around a statue of Ganesh we had red and yellow cords tied around our wrists - left hand for women, right for men. It was a bit like a marriage ceremony and the Brahmin performing the ceremony wished us long life and happiness, and lots of children for Jess and Bert! We came out feeling rather well looked after.
On what transpired to be the hottest day of our stay there, we conspired to schlep across the city to the Botanical Gardens (where we perspired!) We dripped! It took us about an hour and a half to get not very far, and after giving in and taking a taxi to the entrance gate we discovered that the Great Banyan Tree, a key attraction, was at the furthermost point from it, so yet more walking. Talk about mad dogs...We passed by some beautiful trees, and the Banyan Tree is truly spectacular - with its great canopy above and with over 3,000 aerial roots below that have grown into a forest of supporting trunks. They no longer rely on the main trunk, which decayed some 80 years ago. It was a fascinating sight, and of course offered some welcome shade.
There is a grand monument to Queen Victoria, and one evening we went to a 'son et lumiere'spectacular. It was delightful - a potted and very romaticised history of Calcutta, all done with loads of coloured lights illuminating different parts of the building and grounds and a theatrical soundtrack.
We also had a trip to the museum - the display cabinets being as much an attraction as the exhibits themselves. They were Victorian and in walnut, with the artefacts rather randomly displayed.There was a fascinating collection of timber pieces and their uses; and similar collection of fruits and spices. Also a good section on cultural anthropology describing all the various tribal peoples of India. So many distinctly different people attempting to make a unified state. The impending elections, certainly as reported, really brought home the problems inherent in this unification, with much violence and attempted disruption by those who wish to de-federalise India.
Calcutta is huge and it seems constantly to exemplify the great contrast that assails the senses here. It is a very modern city, and yet where we were living there were very primitive living conditions: some living on the street, while others enjoy the upsurge in the economy with what looks to be a very middle class lifestyle, with all the trappings - new cars, smart designer clothes and accessories, coffee houses and also, by the look of some of them, an impending obesity problem.
John took himself off to join in the 'laughing club' a therapeutic method with an impressive list of ailments it can 'cure' as shown by the big poster proclaimng it's virtues from depression to infertility! Quite a spectrum! He arrived at 6.30am and the park was already humming with activity - sensible, as it was a decent temperature at this time of the day. There were football and cricket matches, families out enoying sporting activities together, yoga, either in groups or alone, and there was the usual contingency of joggers, young and old.
The 'laughing club' consisited of, in the main, senior citizens, and John was probably the youngest. They began with some undemanding stretches, and at full stretch, let out a belly laugh continuously for one breath. Then, a repeat of these three exercises all of which involved a stretch and a laugh. While they didn't exactly fall about laughing, it did create a friendly, communal atmosphere, and seemed a very nice way to start the day.
Having decided that we would head up to Sikkim next we had to get permits that would allow us to travel there. Luckily it was very straightforward , and just invoved filling in a form at Sikkim House.
Our time with Jess and Bert was such a treat. They are delightful people and such good company, but their holiday was over and we needed to continue ours and move on to the cooler climate of the Himalayas anmd Sikkim.

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Photos

Puri beach
Lifeguards with the strangest hats!

Jaggtanath Temple Puri
View from the library roof

Born to be wild
The Puri chapter burn rubber

Sun Temple Konark
The temple has 24 wheels : 7 horses 'pull' the chariot

chai shop ritual
pouring the chai is an art and a ritual performed with much panache!

Ambassador
The Morris Oxford alive and well in India

roadside shrine
an occsional aeries

nature of impermanence
a loyal enfield no longer royal

Near Konark
Empty beach

Puri
Buildings in the landscape:
an occasional series