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Published: August 6th 2013
Flying via Bangkok arrived into the capital of India, Delhi. First introduction to this crazy new world was via a psychotic auto-rickshaw driver, holding on tight as we hammered through the busy streets at maximum speed while he shouted abuse and just missed crashing his flimsy battered vehicle. Breathed a temporary sigh of relief on reaching the hotel, before heading out to the train station to book a ticket to Agra – ambushed by several lying travel agent touts en route, I was diverted via a couple of fake “official government” offices before eventually discovering the genuine bureau back at the main station.
Next day meandered through the twisting, stall-lined backstreets of old Delhi, assaulted by a panoply of smells from the stench of festering garbage in the hot streets through to the mouth-watering aromas of the freshly baked local bread. Eventually emerged next to the giant Jama Masjid mosque, fitting 25000 people, and climbed a narrow spiral staircase up to the top of one of the minaret's for vertiginous views out over the city. A brief stop to see the Digambara Jain Temple with its in-house bird hospital (vegetarians only !), was followed by a visit to the adjacent
Red Fort - explored the imperial buildings and palaces once home to the Mughal emperors, their lavish existence brought to life by the informative audio-guide. Later briefly escaped the heat at the on-site museum, its displays highlighting the influence of Gandhi and the years of British mis-rule of India leading up to independence. Taking the air-conditioned new metro system arrived in the exclusive diplomatic enclave to what felt like a whole different city; strolling down tree-lined avenues to visit impressive Hamuyan's tomb, the imposing edifice set amidst peaceful gardens and memorials including one for the emperor's favourite barber.
Caught the train to Agra and visited the city's fortress, guarded by a towering red sandstone gateway and filled with audience chambers, mosques and palaces including the octagonal tower overlooking the Taj Mahal, where the old Mughal emperor was imprisoned by his son after he'd built the famous tomb for his wife. Later wandered along the bustling city's roads, with monkeys prowling the rooftops while big-horned cows and beeping rickshaws commanded the streets below. An early start the next day was repaid by my first close-up views of the sublime Taj Mahal, its beautiful white-marble facade and dome illuminated in the
Delhi View
From Jama Masjid minaretearly morning sunlight. Explored the central mausoleum with its masterful carvings adorned with semi-precious stones before strolling through the peaceful formal gardens and riverside terrace.
Escaped from the city via taxi to the world-heritage listed Fatehpur Sikri, a small town once designated the imperial capital. Hired a guide for a tour around the main sites, seeing the stone where the “execution elephant” was chained, the separate palaces of the emperor's three Muslim, Hindu and Christian wives and the spectacular 54m high victory gate. The twilight journey back to Agra encompassed some memorable sights of baffling India – buffalo grazing peacefully in green fields, a white-bearded holy man walking along the road with a monkey on a rope, a posse of resigned donkeys trapped on the central reservation, hungry pigs rummaging through the open rubbish dumps and a family of five precariously weaving through the traffic aboard a single motorbike...
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