The plan changes...

---

I'm over the jetlag now and have left the hotel; and the slightly bemused receptionist who didn't understand that I was checking out to go and stay in a a hostel in central Delhi that I hadn't booked and hadn't a clue where it was - that's the adventure man!!

I paid 1500rp (£20) for a sort of forced unorganised tour around some of the temples and major sites in Delhi and a drop at my hostel. The receptionist was desperate to try and get me in his mans taxi all the way to Varanasi at a cost of 24000rp (you work it out) which would include a guided tour, but with no accommodation...yeah, cos I've got that much money and am that dumb! I said I'd think about it, got my bags and went!

After getting used to the constant sound of car horns (how they let other road users know they're coming up real close to you, that you're in the way andany other purposes) I settled down in the back of the cab, camera in hand. We left at 11am and swung by Birla Mandir, Qutub Minar, Humayan's Tomb, Delhi Gate and the Presidents palace. All beautiful, but sadly the drivers English was almost as limited as my Hindi, so I didn't understand a lot!

The next stop was Bahai's Temple, made in the shape of a Lotus flower. The driver said 'Please go in, it's free'. As the sun had just broken through the morning mist, it light up the brilliant white of the temple amazingly, it looked stunning! I thought sod it, why not! As I walked up to the Temple I felt an amazing sence of relief and freedom, like I'd never felt before. Boots in hand, walking barefoot up to the temple with throngs of people and school kids it felt entirely natural. I sat silently inside looking up at the architecture in wonder, how so many people of so many faiths were all here to worship.

The next stop was Dilli Haat, an indoor bizarre run by families for the benefit of the community and their families as a cooperative. After some haggling I bought a bed sheet and pillow cases, as I'd read that some hostels linen wasn't the greatest...best buy so far! After much confusion, the driver eventually found my hostel of choice...The Kurdeep Guest House. I was told they were full and taken to The New King Hotel where I meet Sonny, a guy I'd heard lots about. He said he was full but had a room at the Hinduatan. It's not luxury, but it's a clean room with a bed and a shower for the night!

Sonny recomended I go to the local travel agents to organise my trains and travel. I spoke to Hapi, who it has to be said is the most patient hospitable men I've met! We spent an hour or so trying to organise a reasonably priced trip that would allow me to see the sights in my timescale and budget...after much haggling!! He sent me off for the night with my driver/guide/new best friend Lol...no, not laugh out loud, Lol. We went back to India Gate and sat and had a cup of chai together on the lawn talking about my trip and our families. Lol seems like a lovely guy, who couldn't do enough for you!

So tomorrow I start my trip, leaving Delhi behind and being driven by Lol to Jaipur and then to Agra! And so the adventure continues!

---