The capital of Delhi

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So this is quite an important destination for two reasons... 1. It's the first place I've visited in India so far and 2. it's my first couch-surfing experience. In such a short space of time I've been through different emotions, high and low. When I first arrived into the oppressive heat, touts, smells of sewage and so on, I really was wondering 'why the hell am I here?' but as the days have gone by, I've been reminded of the beauty of India and what it has to offer, even in this unlikely destination of the capital city, seeing as I dislike cities!

In just these three days my senses have been awakened and reminded of the joys of India that I experienced last year. From smelling the street food, hearing the calls from the birds, feeling the heat, hearing the constant beeping, feeling the cool air on my face whilst on the back of a motorbike at night. All the things that made memories flood back to me. It's good to be back.

I spent my first day cooped up in a cafe on wifi or in my air conditioned hostel room as I was too scared to brave the heat, as it's currently around 45 degrees here. Has England ever even seen such heat? On day two though I ventured out and turned up on Vidhi's doorstep early in the morning. I stayed with him for one night and my first CS experience was pretty pleasant. It was nice to be away from the tourist district, to see a real typical Indian flat and to be given the insider tips of how to make the most out of Delhi. On the first evening we went to the Indian gate, which is beautiful when lit up at night and has a great atmosphere. There's many locals there and many people selling flashy toys and giant teddies. It's like being at the fair almost! This was followed by the sound and light show at the red fort. Although it was beautiful at night there and really informative, I definitely want to see it by daylight when I return.

The next morning we were both up nice and early to visit Humayans tomb which was a beautiful experience. If you go at 5am like we did and wear a scarf over your head to blend in, you avoid having to pay and get to go at one of the most peaceful (and cool) times of the day. Despite them renovating some of the lawns, it's one of the most beautiful places in Delhi. It's a world away from the chaotic roads or market streets. So serene, so tranquil. Imagine peacocks, green grass, trees, beautiful monuments, the call of prayer coming from a mosque next door, people doing yoga on the lawns, others just taking a morning stroll. It should be on everyone's list of things to do whilst in Delhi. The tombs themselves were beautifully done, all carved from stone and marble.

The rest of this day was spent in air conditioned cafes with my new friend Tyagi, an Indian Scotsman...interesting mix! When it had finally cooled down (and we'd managed to fix the motorbike.... long story.... in India, the simplest of things can take hours) we made it to the Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah which is a shrine to a Sufi saint, where people of all religions gather amongst the tombs. What makes this place special is the singing that occurs on Thursday evenings. It was inspiring, moving even. The Qawwalis sing and chant and use their drums. It really is so atmospheric. Everyone is sat barefoot on the marble floor, gathered around them, enjoying the music. What was bizarre was the noise we could hear in the background though.... that is, the noise from the women's room. In this room women go and wail and cry for fertility, and boy do they wail! You could see them through the windows wailing and swaying, it was quite a sight. This has definitely got to have been the highlight of my stay in Delhi.

This was followed by visiting the deer park, which despite not being allowed as the park was closed, we managed to get into by sneaking in via the village backstreets. Oh the joy of knowing Indians on the in side! Again here there was monuments, a huge lake and beautiful greenery (and supposedly deer, although I didn't spot any). A world away from the dusty inner streets of Delhi. It was so peaceful, Tyagi tells me he often goes there at night and sometimes sleeps. I can see why. It's like an oasis in the desert!

Now it's early morning and I'm just about to leave Delhi to go up into the mountains near Nainital for a music festival with Tyagi and his friends. Although I have enjoyed my time here, I'm definitely ready to leave this unbearable heat for a more pleasant mountain climate! I'll let you all know how it goes...

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Comments

[Nan]

I,m so glad you are enjoying your trip, make the most of it. Ilove you take care of yourself and keep safe.xxxxxxx