Hate it or Love it - Trip in India


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Asia » India » National Capital Territory » Delhi
September 19th 2007
Published: June 4th 2008
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New Delhi


Main BazzarMain BazzarMain Bazzar

View from my hotel room Vivek
Hmm...have mixed feelings about it ...
I had my plane from Okecie in Warsaw @ 6:00am. Already at the airport I have met a tour group going for 3 weeks trip to India & Nepal. Cool at least I will have somebody to talk to on the plane. Quick connection in Milan and we get on our plane to Delhi , which was another 7 hours away.
On the plane I had a window seat next to one middle age Indian guy , with who I talked to get some informations about India(he was from Jaipur).
Like alwyas while on planes I tried to fall asleep..succesfuly. But.. I woke up when all passangers where leaving the plane already, so I grab my stuff quick and run towards exit doors. What appeared later I left there my most precious thing - my guineess hat ...! SIC ! .. it was the worst begining of my trip that I could imagine. But time to keep moving..
While standing in the line to immigration I had short conversation with some of those polish folks after what I went to collect my baggage. After crossing cutoms I were already officialy on India land...& now the
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View from street
best part of the trip begun.
Before I left to India I contacted 2 hotels about reserving a room and arranging airport pick up, becouse after hearing many stories about taxi/rickshaw drivers I decided will be more convinient to have it arranged in advence. I contacted 2 hotels in case if one would not show up. Anyway before my departure from Poland I didnt get a confirmation from any of them that they will be there. I didnt find anybody with my name. Suprise? Not really? So I went back to exchange some money, the rate they gave me was not so bad, i got around 11k INR, which as it appeared later was enough for whole duration of my stay in India(9days).
Now was time to get a taxi...I didnt know that time about police pre-paid taxis, and I went to one of other taxi services windows @ the IGI airport..I paid 400INR which was probably 150INR more then if I would reserve it with police pre-paid. But thats how you learn traveling, street smarts..by your own mistakes.
We drove to Main Baazar...the backpacers area in Delhi...polluted, dirty filled with scams on every step - but thats how it
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Already inside;)
is out there. That was also my first view of Delhi.
I decided I will go to Vivek Hotel (the other one was Anoop Hotel, also I was considering going to Ajanta Hotel, which was more expensive then 2 previous ones). Anyway all those hotels were close to eachother, if one would not work out I would go to check out other. I get off from taxi, take a look around it was already after midnight, my driver asked me about tip, but I had in my head words of the guy from the airport telling me that tip is alrady included in the price of service. I ignored him and went straight inside to the Vivek Hotel. People sleeping on the couches in the hall, probably they work there. One guy standing behind the desk watching late night cricket game(Top Twenty20 tournament). I told him that I have reservation, told him my name, but of course there were nothing in the log. Its pretty big hotel, and they had rooms anyway. I took one with fan and attached bathroom for 300INR per night. I checked it out before deciding it looked fine, they told me there is no water
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Area inside
in the hotel acctualy, they are fixing it & it should be done till morning. They provided me a bucket of cold water. You dont need hot water out there when the temperature outside reach almost 38*C @ midnight.
Before I went to bed I decided I want to look around it was almost 1am and I went for a short walk on small streets of Main Baazar. Almost everything was closed. Like a ghost town...only cows & dogs looking for theirs late dinner. Further exploration of the area I left for the next day. I went to bed.
I woke up around 8am..took a shower (it worked) unpack my stuff and went to the top floor restaurant for a deserved breakfast. Hotel (building and rooms) it was much different from the standards that I were used to like in US, but roof restaurant made a positive impression on me & become one of my favourites spots in the whole Delhi. The prices there were really affordable, like almost anywhere else in India. I could have big filling breakfast for 100INR. While waiting for my meal I picked up Lonely Planet India from the bookshelf @ the restaurant & start
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Still...
making plans for a day. Couse whole trip to India was spontanious, have no idea what want to do besides I wanted to see Taj Mahal. I decided my first destination will be Red Fort not so far from Main Baazar.
After finishing eating I started my sideseeing tour of Delhi. I walked out of Main Baazar towards New Delhi Train Station , being bodered by every second Indian person that I walked next to, offering me good deals on rickshaw, gems , clothes, electronics. I got to the main intersection and I started looking for a taxi. After checking couple of them I found one that satisfied my price expectations - paid around 40INR to Red Fort. As on the map it seamed really close to Main Baazar, in reality it took as around 15-20 min to get there, traffic and Delhi is a huge city.
I reached Red Fort. Rickshaw driver told me he will wait for me, even besides I didnt want to. Whatever he wants, anyway I didnt plan on using his service any again. I went to ticket counter, what shocked me for the first time in India , seperate price for locals, indian citizens
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Raj Ghat
and foreigns. Where price for the 2nd ones was 10 times or more higher. I wanted to see it so I paid the fee.
I went inside, huge fort with a sort of garden inside and many buildings,small temples. It was impressive to me at 1st sight, but if I would compare to places i have seen later even in India, I wouldnt find this place as "a must see in Delhi". Around 1 hour of walking around in those high temperatures I were sweating like hell and decided its time to go back. On the map I noticed that subway station its near Red Fort. I tried to found it by myslef but without any results. So I asked one bicycle rickshaw driver to take me to the subway/metro station, which I knew it cant be more then 5 min away. We agreed on the price & departured. As later appeared I had pretty annoying trip on small streets of Chowdi Chowk, with the driver telling me "gems on the right, pashmir clothes on the left. We are close that is a shorcut"..after 15 min I was pissed enough to tell him to turn around and take me back
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Raj Ghat
to Red Fort. Another 15 min & we were back at the place where everything started. I didnt pay to the bastard couse he didnt take me to the place I wanted to get to. It was already around 1pm and I decided f... that its time to go back to the hotel. Another arguees with some taxi drivers about the price and finally I were on the road again. I went to my room took a shower, which cooled me down, how much I needed that. It was time for a lunch, some fried rice with veg&egg + lonely planet India again.
Plan was to get a rickshaw which will drive me around such a places like : Raj Ghat, Humayun's Tomb, Lotus Temple, India Gate, Main Baazar. That was hard mission to negociate a good price with a driver but after 20 min "talk" we stoped on 300INR and he has to wait for me at those places for 30-40min till I will be done, he will get paid after the service. That was a young guy, not like most others rickshaws old asses, barely speaking english, trying to rip you off on evry step. It took as
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Enterance to Humayun's Tomb
20 min to reach Raj Ghat. There is no public parking place around it, so we had to stop a little bit farer form the enterance gate(there are 4 of them, Raj Ghat is build on the plan of square, with gates on ech of the walls: N S E W). We decided I will be back in 40 min. Before entering the main square I had to take off my shoes and laeve it outside. Inside u could see a altar in the center with fire, candle on it. People praying around it and in the far corner group of students listening to the story being told by their proffesor about this place. It was like a peaceful oasis, out off scams, horns, noises. On the way out I picked up my shoes and seciurity guy took adventage of that asking me for a donation, I left some change.
I was late 5 min but my guy was still there, next stop was Humayun's Tomb. I got there on the parking place there were many taxis waiting for theirs potential victims. I went inside after I agreed with my driver I will spend there 30 min. Enterance ticket costed
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One of enterance gates to Humayun's Tomb
me 200INR, and just right after I saw first monuments I knew 0.5h wont be enough to enjoy this place...so I went back the parking lot let my "friend" know to dont wait for me. And thats when it started. Huge argument in which all the rickshaw drivers were involved. I offered him(just to give me a break) 150INR for to trip we have done till now. But he kept saying we had agreement about 300INR. He didnt want to listen that we havent made to all those places. One guy from the crowd around us offered me "a deal of my life time" : "Pay me 150INR and your driver 100INR and we will be done"...Why the f... I have to pay you?... Finally after another 5 min I gave my guy 150INR & walked away towards Humayun's Tomb. It was enormous, the best place I have visited in Delhi...I have stayed there 2hr till the sunset, enjoying views and majesty of this place.
On the way out it was alrady around 6pm and I was running out of time couse most of tourist places were about to close. So I decided I will try to get to Lotus
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Humayun's Tomb
Temple even besides it was really far away on south of Delhi. But if not today, tomorrow I will have even longer way from Main Baazar.
Those taxi drivers they surrounded me on my way out offering their service, but I kept going. Still they followed me until I get to police checkpost, and asked one policeman to help me get rid of them. It worked. I walked for 2 min until I have noticed one rickshaw which I stoped to start "our game" - how much do u want? It was older guy who barely spoke english, knew numbers to negociate prices. It was 30 min ride to Lotus Temple. When we got there it was about to close it stayed open till 7pm. I paid him 60INR and asked to wait here for me so we will go back together to Main Baazar.
The whole area around Lotus Temple is tidy, clean , filled with trees and plants all over. The temple it makes impression - the shape and size of it. Before I entered, have to take my shoes of again, leave them in deposit and stand in the line to get inside. There were separate lanes
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Inside ...
for men and womens, with a guide explaining us before entering, in hindu & english, about behavior in this holy place. Inside for me it lost all its magic & aura. People are not allowed to take pictures inside. So I havent spent to much time in the temple, wanted to go outside, sit, relax and enjoy its view. Around 7pm we were requested to leave, they were closing.
When I crossed exit gate I looked around to find my rickshaw driver, but he was not there. I found other guy who decided to take me all the way back to Main Bazar for 100INR(it took us 1hr to get to mine destination point). While I was getting on rickshaw my other driver showed up asking where Im going...They had short conversation about who is taking me which ended up me being taken to my hotel by the new guy. I were hungry and tired after such a day. Just right after we arrived the guy offered me he can drive me around tomorrow as well, he gave me his phone no. and asked me to call him( I didnt). I went straight upstairs to the restaurant, ordered pasta and
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India Gate
went to the room to take quick shower before they will prepare it. They day was almost over...I laid down in my bed...analyzing whole day which resulted in an idea " I hve to leave Delhi ASAP"...I felt asleep...
Next day I decided I want to take it easy and organize my trips to other places around India. I woke up around 9am, went for breakfast to mine regular place and start studing Lonely Planet to make some plans for a day. Things to see for today were India Gate area Indian Parlament + Natinal Museum which was close to it. But before that I went to the New Delhi Train Station to book the tickets for my trip to Agra and Jaipur. I walked out of hotel and al this pollution and heat mixed in humid air hited me. I kept walking towards exit of Main Baazar, I looked around to find which way is the ticket reservation building. I noticed it and walked inside. More then 10 windows serving people...all filled with locals at least 20 at every window, after 20 min waiting and filling reservation form I resigned, having in mind that I will try to use
India GateIndia GateIndia Gate

India Gate
guy from my hotel to get those tickets for me. Becouse if I wanted to leave tomorrow and I will spend whole day at the train station I will miss other Delhi attractions. That was my samll introduction to Indian railway system which I will be using not without adventures lately on my trip. While walking back to Main Baazar, to my hotel which was like 10 min away, some older guy bodered me. He followed me for 5 min, asking me to stop that he wants to tell me something. He kept reapeting I have something on my shoe! He was so annoying, that I stoped and then I noticed. I had huge nasty, greenish shit(!!!) on my shoe! He offered he can clean that and bend himself to do it. Then I rised my hand to scare him away like you used to do with a dogs. He freezed and I walked away. I knew this type of scam. He will claen your shoe, when you will be focused on your boots, he may rob you and after "his work" will demand huge ammount of money for cleaning this nasty shit. Good begining of a day..it convinced me even more that I want to leave Delhi.
While back in hotel I tried to clean it, but still not all of it got off. Side of the shoe still stayed kind of green.
In really "good mood" I went to talk to this guy, ask him to organize me tickets Delhi - Agra , Agra- Jaipur , Jaipur - Delhi for fixed dates. He told me couse its so late he will give me Delhi - Agra bus besides of train, and the class of other 2 trains will be AC3. It worked for me. Also I had to pay 100INR of commision for every ticket which kind of sucked but I wanted really desperately to leave Delhi and visit those places specially that I were on tight schedule only 9 days in India. We agreed I will pick up those tickets later in evening so I will have whole afternoon for Delhi sideseeing.
I went outside , boought bottle of water, thing that Im not going out without specially in such a temperatures as Delhi had those days. I found a rickshaw who took me to the India Gate..it was completly different part of the city. Clean, almost no homeless people,beggars wandering around, a lot of trees, parks, plants. Good place to run away from noisy Main Baazar. I walked around this monument taking a lot of pictures from different angles. There were kids trying to convince you to buy one of theirs toys, photos, ice creams. Sometimes they were annoying as well. Road going from the India gate to the west finished at Rashtrapati Bhavan and goverment buildings which were my next destination. It was a pleasant walk, where on the way I met a nepali student group which were visitng India(first ever Nepali I met traveling abroad), after short conversation about Nepal, couse it was my next destination after India, I kept walking. Honestly there is not to much to see around Rashtrapati Bhavan. A lot of soldiers, seciurity guards, politics, officials. You can see the palace only from the gate. As I heard one day a year palace gardens are open to public couse of some holiday. But any other time gate is the closest point you can get to.
So after taking couple of shoots I opened my map to take a look how to get from here to National Museum, with some advices of guards @ Rashtrapati Bhavan I departed for my mission of finding that place. BTW: For the last 3 hr there was a random rickshaw folowing me all the time offering rides all around the place..probably if I would like to go to Poland he would say yes. Everything is possible for him its just matter of price. National Museum was a little bit on the side from the main road going to the palace. Still I had to ask one police officer(I found them really helpful anywhere in Delhi) about directions. He was so nice that he walked me to the National Museum for 10 min leaving his post.
Before entering I had to leave my stuff(my bag with my camera at the deposit box - for camera they charged you extra and I thought its not worth taking it) and cross the seciurity check point. Next I got the ticket(foreigners - 300INR , locals - 30INR ...redicilious) they provide me with headphones & player, while playing, turned on will explain me about most of the exhibits in the museum. I have to say visiting this place was a good shoot, all exponents, colections were interesting and they had a good lunch place with buffet inside, but the price... I took me quite a while to explore the whole place, three floors with numerous number of rooms. It was around 4 pm already. I picked up my bag on the way out and went outside to catch a transportation back to Main Bazar.
I arrived back in hotel around 5:30pm, exactly on time to pick up mine tickets from hotel guy. He had everything prepared already. Ticket for a bus to Agra - departure time 7am next day. Train Agra - Jaipur for day after tomorrow 6pm - AC3 wagon. The same train back to Delhi from Jaipur day before my departure date from India. I was happy that I had those tickets already even despite the price, at least it tought me something. Now I had to organize my accomodation in Agra. I went and spend some time on the internet looking for a places to stay on TT Lonely Planet, and places to visit there besides Taj of course. Later I jump into my "ticket guy" again asking him if somebody will come to pick me up. He told me to be at the recepction at 6am tomorrow. Thats what I did. Last dinner in my restaurant I got some veg momos(dumplings) and went back to the room to pack stuff that will take for the trip to those places couse I didnt want to carry my whole backpack with me. I took only a daypack filled with some clothes that could be useful.
I woke up at 5am day 4th of my trip...took a showet and went downstairs , checked out from the room, left my bag in luggage storage, get reciept for that - it cost me 10INR per day. I waited for a guy who was suppoused to pick me up it was already 6:15am and he was not there yet. There were two more korean guys going on the same bus from my hotel, but they didnt speak english to well. Finally when the guy(more like a kid) appeared he took us to our bus. It was a nice bus with AC( I requested AC @ the time of booking) filled already with locals but we found some seats at the begining. After couple of minutes when more and more people start coming in problems started.
Two guys were arguing which resulted in moving us to Non-AC local bus, where there was nobody besides of us 3. I started to argue with one of them whats going on, that I paid for AC bus and I want one, he said no that I have a ticket for Non-AC bus. Nobody could tell me when this bus will depart. I was pissed like hell, I got off of the bus and walked back to the first one. While entering I yelled to the driver that I have AC seat and I dont give a shit what he is saying..he checked my ticket once again and said ok , but those two korean guys have to stay on other bus. Whatever... I found a seat at the back. There were two other tourists seating there as well. As I found out later one girl was from Brazil(we spend most of the journey to Agra talking) and one japanese men(who almost didnt speak english). We left from our bus stand @ 8am...already one hour late, but I was kind of getting used to adventure traveling, getting around in India...

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