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Published: September 25th 2007
30 July, 2007 - On the bus from Jaipur to Agra There is a boy, young and strong, red band of cloth wrapped round his head like a samurai. And like a samurai he shouts the snack he sells with eyes smiling strong as a man but only seriousness from his lips. It smells good here, at this rest stop, the stench of urine masked by the lemon and spice of this young boys living. He is the same to me as the flock of parakeets swinging in the cornfields a while back. We are all the same, smelling of urine or lemon spice. We all have beating hearts, we all a striving to live. * * *
How can I convey to you my Indian experience? We have all been desensitized by the multitude of stories of the exotic world full of poverty and colour, filth and magic, the allure of a complete culture shock and a world that is for us turned upside down. We view India through this Alice in wonderland looking glass and dream of wrapping ourselves in saintly saris, rickshaw rides and curry dipped fingers. We imagine ourselves as Alice. Wandering through bizarres,
picking fresh mangoes and cheap jewelry, spending our dollar to its fullest and saving on every penny. Pinching on each bicycle ride that pulls us with the strength of a country boy in the city to earn for his family so that we may tickle our fancy at the next fantastical display of difference, we gaze out on the streets of India, our getaway jewel, his struggle for life.
Within 24 hours of being in India I went through so many emotions I could barely keep track. I went from the airport to North Delhi, a wild taxi ride to a bug infested hotel room. 3am, sleeping bodies sardined along the roads, I was lucky to be sleeping in sheets. I went from tourist trap and disgust in a rickshaw ride to the streets of South Delhi's best address. 11am and confusion sets in, where is the toilet paper? 3pm, a speedy ride on Delhi highways, excitement at seeing an elephants arse alongside bicycle rickshaws, cars, massive colourful trucks and the motorbike I was clinging for life to as Indian women sit elegantly perched, birds in saris, behind their husbands. So this is India... the streets of Delhi and
the ruleless roads that everyone talks about.
I spent a few bewildered days with a group of colourful youth, vibrant with theatre and a cause. I met Jamghat, a NGO working to give street children a voice through their acting as well as raising money to give them housing and nourishment, relief from a street life of drug addiction and rape. Jamghat got me through Delhi. I spent my days at film festivals and play practice, eating street food and zipping past tourist attractions. I was asked to ask girls fathers if they could stay out, “
He won’t say no if you ask,” and in return I went to the girls homes and got stuffed with home made Indian foods, plenty of bread and deserts, got shown album after album of pre arranged marriage, each photograph the same portrait printed with computerized borders, and yet more food, mangoes, ice cream, samosas. You are not allowed to say no. Say no five times and you finally give in.
After a few days of bewildered shuffling around, belly full and eyes hungry for more cheap things, I landed on a local bus and slumped into a feeling of uninspired boredom
as I head towards Jaipur, the Pink City, to begin my journey into India, my getaway jewel. Alone again. Just a tourist again. No more street food? A few samosas won’t hurt.
I have encluded here a few photos just to give you a taste... I have hundreds and it takes ages to sort through them but I hope to put an entire other blog entry dedicated to my trip through photos by the end of this week. I hope you enjoy!
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Tess- How I envy you in India .. it is an awesome place. My first time there was more than 25 years ago and I still cannot begin to describe it! The second trip was easier to "share" in words, but emotions are still reverberating within me ... and I think will for always. Jaipur, Pushkar ... there is magic in those names too, muchless the experiences you are having. Send you much love (shake head side to side!) Cookie