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Asia » India » Maharashtra » Ajanta Caves
November 23rd 2006
Published: December 5th 2006
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This time I managed to make the early start and joined a British couple, Helen & Darren - who were to become my cave companions. We set off on a local bus to the T-junction venturing further and further into the bush. The landscape really reminded me of Malawi, clear blue sky, scrubland by the side of the road, forested areas and barren hillsides. Arriving at our destination literally in the middle of no-where, where two road crossed by a rather shabby hotel, we set of to find our way to the first entrance and Euro bus, the sun beating down and as my rucksack dug into my shoulders. Successfully, we arrived at the base of the escarpement. I'd seen a photo of the caves, carved into a almost vertical cliff edge of an interlocking spur, surrounded by scrubby bush above and lush green trees and bourgainvillea sitting alongside the meandering river down below, I was anxious to see if it lived up to my image. Leaving the rucksack behind, thank goodness - I'll have shoulders of a brickie soon!, we climbed up the edge, having declined the sudan chair (4 porters and a wicker seat) and I was happily surprised, it was magical and so peaceful.

We wandered around the arching path, stopping to explore each cave, shoes on, shoes off, astounded by what we saw. The caves were built up in the earlier 2nd Centure BC to AD. In some there was a huge caven - 4m high x20m square, held up by carved rock pillars laid out in a sqaure, bulbs between softly lighting the area to reveal detailed religious paintings and carvings, little sleeping cells of to either side and at the back a open room housing a 2m high sitting Buddha.

Many of the caves on first sight were similar but once your eyes ajusted to the light, little differences appeared. Some had two stories joined by steep staircases, a few had huge perfectly domed ceilings and arches, or 2m high elephants guarding the entrances and in the furthest cave there was a 3m long reclinging Buddha; I reckon his legs had gone to sleep from all the sitting in the other caves or the craftsman had perfected the art of the sitting buddha and decided to branch out!! The paintings are predominantly religious and centre around the life of Buddha in the style of a Indian Michael Angelo fresco. What really stunned me was that age of the complex and the fact it had survived for so long.

Our peace was shattered by a platoon of marching soldiers, who proceed to trot in full uniform around each cave, like a trail of worker ants, stopping only to stare at us and then onto the next; it was quite exhausting just watching.

As the sun climbed further into the sky, like mad dogs and English men, we climbed to the top viewpoint to survey the whole scene and took a moment to sit back and admire the view before the local farmers pitched up with thier crystals and stones; and yes I couldn't resist. I really am going to be carrying rocks.

Reluctantly we headed off to Aurangabad, jumping a lift in a tourist bus with fans. Our next destination and jumping off point for tomorrows adventure.





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9th December 2006

Nov/Dec stories please!
Dearest Lorna - thank you so much for a most entertaining afternoon supping tea and reading your adventurous accounts. Can't believe it's mid-December and I hadn't read your blog till now. Truly inspirational to hear your news and views. Your descriptive powers are awesome, I feel like I've been to Bundi, sat in a rickshaw and eaten Indian pistachio ice-cream, just through the pictures you have painted. It's also been great to share the odd text and snatched phone call - it makes for a warm paradox where you're in deepest India yet 'down the road' too. The Ruddies must be with you by now, and Jess on her way too, also makes it feel somehow normal that everybody's in close touch. Look forward very much to hearing more stories. Lou xxxx

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