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Published: March 12th 2010
Varghese and his wife Bhima were an absolute delight. As well as running the farm (coffee, bananas, rice, and every spice imaginable), Varghese is a policeman. There farmhouse is beautiful, on three sides of a courtyard, with rooms off all three sides, and a big communal eating area at the end of one of the sides. We were shown our room, which was so wonderfully cool after the ever rising temperatures at the coast. The we were told coffee was waiting for us. And what coffee; made from their own beans, mixed with cardomum and clove (both also from the farm), and with milk taken fresh from the cow. Just magic. There was no sign of the Irish couple who we were supposed to have hooked up with at Callicut (if we had caught the right train!), but we were told that they had done even worse than us - they had overslept and were still in Allepey! There was a young German couple who we talked to, and we decided that we might do the mountain trek the following day - with 4 of us, it halves the cost. Bhima brought out 2 plates, and rice (from the farm of course), and 2 bowls of the most amazing curry. The germans had already eaten (it was about 10pm by now), so Baska and I tucked in. We felt a bit embarrased when after a few minutes Varghese and Bhima joined us, as they were planning to eat with us, but it was all OK. They told us about the 15 different spices which went into each curry. Interstingly, they both used the same spices, but in very differnt proportions, giving very different results.
We told Varghese we would like to do the mountain trek, but sadly it was too late to get permission from the forestry people, without which you can't do it. So the Germans decided they would move on next day.
After a great breakfast of puri with chutney and curries, followed by bananas which we reached out and plucked from the tree, we decided we would walk to the island, which was recommended. Armed with a couple of bottles of water, and about 2 kilos of the ubiquitous bananas) we set off. Varghese accompanied us down to the paddy fields, where he could point out the path. He also showed us the elephant warning system, as they keep on nicking his bananas!. Baska and I crossed to paddy fields, and into the forest. Over the trench which was dug to keep the elephants out (it didn't - they just build their own bridges!) on the manmade bridge of bamboo, and up to the road. There we came across a little roadside restaurant run by half a dozen ladies in colourful saris. They persuaded us to stop for chai, but then brough us banana fritters too - and then some more! We had to stop them trying to fatten us up, and escaped. It was a pleasant walk to the island, and on the island itself. But sadly no wildlife (other than a couple of snakes, one very poisonous one at the roadsise, and one water snake, about 4 feet long, but harmless). So a good walk, and lovely cool weather, but nothing special.
When we returned to the farm, Steven and Sarah, from Dublin, had arrived. We hit it off straightaway, and over another amazing meal we decided we would try for the maountan trek again the following day. This time it was arranged. so a reasonable early night as breakfast would be about 6:30am before a 7am start for the drive to the start of the trek.
More about that next time.
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Jane Collingwood
non-member comment
It sounds marvelous
It all sounds marvelous, I can taste the curry from here.