Montezuma's had his revenge..

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Back on the move after being laid low for 24 hours thanks to a bad pineapple juice. Didn’t / couldn’t get out of bed Wednesday but managed to get some food down Thursday and make the early morning ferry out of Cochin.
Caught the Kottyam train from Ernakulam Junction and got to Kottayam jetty about 1.00pm. The last boat of the day to Alleppey, where I was headed, wasn’t due until 3.30 so I spent two and a half hours baking in the concrete cube of a waiting room. The state run boats form the main public transport of the backwaters, ferrying the country folk and their goods between the local villages; fares are cheap, the ticket for the 2 ½ hour journey cost me 11 rupees (about 13p), for that you get a seat and the use of a overhanging toilet at the back of the boat. This is a rural region and life for the most part exists on raised spits of land that sit between the waterways.
The waterbus meandered up and down various channels, picking up and dropping folk off, all manner of goods were manhandled onto the boat, anything too big i.e. three massive cartwheels and a buffalo harness, went on the roof. At one stop about thirty school kids clambered aboard. Aged between six and 10 they trooped on in their red and blue uniforms complete with satchels and schoolbooks. It wasn’t long before they spied me. ‘Where are you from?” they asked politely. “Guess?” I said. “Germany?” said one. “Russia?” tried another. “I know”, chirped a third, “Africa!” With this they all collapsed in fits of laughter. Their command of English was impressive for their age and the fact that kids like this from poor backgrounds are getting an education gives some indication of Kerala’s insistence on learning and literacy, which for any of these children is only the way out of the poverty trap that ensnares 80% of India’s population. They badgered me for “English coins for school”. I fished some out of my pack and was straight away engulfed. Giving up any hope of sharing the coppers fairly I let go of the bag and the rugby scrum retreated to the back of the boat much to the annoyance of the conductor. Peace again reigned after they got off in little groups, having first lined up to shake hands and ask for my autograph - fame at last.
The boat entered a vast expanse of water called Vembanad lake (“where lurk crocodiles of enormous size”). The lake was in the grip of vegetation known as Water Hyacinth; great beds of it covered the lake and Egrets and other waterfowl gathered in large numbers on the floating platforms to feed and roost. It was dark when the waterbus chugged into the jetty at Apperley and I was pretty much done in, still feeling the effects of the stomach bug. Found a fleapit in the town and bedded down for the night. Today, I plan to wander up and down the canals and have a look around; it seems a pretty interesting place. There’s a plenty of communist icons and slogans dotted around, not surprising since Alleppey saw many massacres and riots as the state of Kerala slipped in and out of communist control many times since 1947.
Going to find some much needed food now and then get some rest. I plan to stay over tonight and then move on south tomorrow. Check back soon…

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Photos

State Waterbus to Alleppey
Complete with rear-mounted ThunderBox.

Vembanad Lake
Big Crocs

Come the revolution
Banner in Alleppey

I type therefore I perspire..
Internet 'Cafe' Alleppey