Advertisement
Published: November 25th 2008
Our Tuk-Tuk
The 3 of us hired this Tuk-Tuk all day from 11am until 5pm, he showed us around and cost us 300 rupees. (under 4 pounds)As some of you know I had planned to be in Goa until 12th December 2008. After a great few weeks in this Paradise and meeting the Swiss pair I decided to join them on their trip around Kerala. This is still on the Coast of India just two states further south.
We left the Patnam on the Tuesday evening to join the train to Kochi in Kerala at 10.30pm to catch the 11.18pm train. This finally turned up at midnight and the Fabien and Cornalla had booked their ticket the week before and were able to get a 3 tier sleeper with A/C however as I only decided to join them on the Monday morning there were only sleeper tickets available. So they joined the train near the front and me 20 carriages further back. I found my seat turned bunk had already been occupied by an old man fast sleep, the guy and the bunk opposite told me that the old guy was meant to be on the top bunk but as being 92 years old he could not climb. I was happy to be up there, so with
the help from a couple of guys I got my increasingly heavy rucksack onto the top bunk and ipod went to sleep for a few hours. The journey to Kerala is about 14 hours on the train and we were due to arrive at about 2pm.
During the evenings sleep you are awoken by the sellers on boards selling everything from Tea to books and even hairbrushes. Each section of this sleeper carriage is made up of compartments with 6 bunks 3 either side then 2 on the other side in-between the corridor.
The seats can be move down to make bunk beds which are quiet comfortable. If you are able to get tickets in the 2 or 3 Tier A/C sleeper you are even given pillows, sheets and a blankets, however I had to make do with a fan and my small rucksack as a pillow and to be honest it was more than fine for one nights sleep and a a quarter of the price too. My ticket only cost 4 pounds compared to 12 pounds in the A/C sleeper.
So after a quick 14 hours we arrived at Ernakulam Junction Station and got ourselves and
luggage to the Maple Regency Hotel in Ernakulam Town. The accommodation was clean and for 4 pounds it was good value too. So after a much needed shower and change of clothes it was time to investigate to local area. Ernakulam was busy but not like Delhi or Jalpur. But compared to the laid back Goa it did take a little getting used to many people, cars, Tuk-Tuk, rickshaws and Cows in the roads again.
Tonight we had agreed would be movie night and after 10 minutes we found the Cinemas and booked our tickets. So having a couple of hours spare we founds somewhere to eat and then made our way back to the cinemas.
So Ladies and Gentleman, what do you go to see when in India James Bond, Quantum of Solace of course. and like when in Jalpur watching the Bollywood film it was no different. Children crying and nearly everyone in the place getting mobile calls and chatting at the top of their voices. But saying that we three enjoyed the movie, and will remember were we even saw it in years to come.
The venerable city of KOCHI (Long known
Street Cat
This cat was lying on the curb and looked so sweet as Cochin), is Kerala's hottest tourist spot, spreading across islands and promontories in a stunning location between the Arabian Sea and backwaters. Its main sections, modern Ernakulam, in the east, and the old districts of Mattancherry and Fort Cochin on a peninsula in the west-are linked by a complex system of ferries, and distinctly less romantic bridges.
Although most visitors end up staying in Ernakulam, Fort Cochin and Mattancherry as they are the focus of interest, where the city's extraordinary history of foreign influence and settlement is reflected in an assortment of architectural styles.
During a wander through their narrow lanes, you will stumble upon spice markets, Chinese fishing nets, a synagogue, a Portuguese palace, India's first European church, Dutch homes, and a village green that could have been transported from England's Home Counties. The city is also one of the few places in Kerala where, at any time of year, you can be assured of seeing Kathkali dance, either in one of several special tourist theatres, or at a more authentic performance by a temple based company.
Kochi was born in 1341, when a flood created a natural safe port that swiftly replaced Muziris (Kodungallur,50km north)
as the chief harbour on the Malabar coastline. The royal family transferred here from Muziris in 1405, after which the city grew rapidly, attracting Christian, Arab and Jewish settlers from the Middle East. Its name probably derives from kocchazhi, meaning the new or small harbour. The history of the European involvement in Kochi from the early 1500s onwards is dominated by the aggression of, successively, the Portuguese, Dutch and British, competing to control the port and its lucrative spice trade. From 1800 the state of Cochin was part of the British Madras Presidency; from 1812 until Independence in 1947, its administration was made the responsibility of a series of divan, or finance ministers. In the 1920s, the British expanded the port to make it suitable for modern ocean-going ships; extensive dredging created Willingdon Island, between Ernakulam and Fort.
Fort Cochin Moving northwest from Mattancherry Palace along Bazaar Road, you pass wholesale emporia where owners, sitting behind scales surrounded by sacks of spices, may well be prepared to talk about their wares. Keep walking in a northerly direction, over the canal and then westwards into Fort Cochin. The architecture of the quiet streets in this enclave is
very definitely European, with fine houses built by wealthy British traders, and Dutch cottages with split farm house doors. At the water's edge there's a bus stand, boat jetty and food and drinks stalls.
The eventful history of this city began when a major flood in AD 1341 threw open the estuary at Kochi, till then a land locked region, turning it into one of the finest natural harbours in the world. Kochi thus became a haven for seafaring visitors from all over the world and became the first European township in India when the Portuguese settled here in the 15th century.
The Dutch wrested Fort Kochi from the Portuguese in AD 1663 and later in the last phase of the colonial saga, the British took over, the town in 1795. During 1660's, Fort Kochi peaked in stature as a prime commercial centre and its fame spread far and wide - variously as a rich trade centre, a major military base, a vibrant cultural hub, a great ship building centre, a centre for Christianity and so on. Today, centuries later, the city is home to nearly thirteen communities.
A few interesting sites included in the tour are
the Chinese fishing nets along the Vasco Da Gama Square, Santa Cruz Basilica, St.Francis Church, VOC Gate, Bastion Bungalow etc. Apart from these architectural splendors, an array of restaurants serving fresh seafood is also popular among tourists. The Chinese fishing nets erected on teak wood and bamboo poles work on the principle of balance. Records say they were first set up here between AD 1350 and 1450. Vasco Da Gama Square, the narrow promenade that parallels the beach, is the best place to watch the nets being lowered and pulled out of the sea.
The Santa Cruz Basilica A church built originally by the Portuguese and elevated to a Cathedral by Pope Paul 1V in 1558, was spared by the Dutch conquerors that destroyed many Catholic buildings. Later the British demolished the structure and Bishop Dom Gomez Vereira commissioned a new building in 1887. Consecrated in 1905, Santa Cruz was proclaimed a Basilica by the Pope John Paul II in 1984.
St Francis Church Fort Kochi is also home to one of India's oldest churches - the St.Francis Church. This was a Roman Catholic Church during the Portuguese rule from 1503 to
1663, then a Dutch Reformist Church from 1664 to 1804, and Anglican Church from 1804 to 1947. Today it is governed by the Church of South India (CSI). Another important fact about the church is that Vasco Da Gama, who died in 1524, was buried here before his mortal remains were returned to Portugal 14 years later... Each and every structure, street, door, window and brick in Fort Kochi has several stories to tell.
The Dutch Palace The Dutch Palace was originally built by the Portugese. Later, in 17th century, the Dutch modified it and presented to the Raja of Kochi. Coronation of many Rajas of Kochi was held here. The place has a fine collection of mural paintings depicting the scenes from the Hindu epics Mahabharatha and Ramayana.
Chinese Fishing nets The Chinese fishing nets found here are the only ones of its kind in India. It is believed that traders from the court of the Chinese ruler Kublai Khan introduced these nets here. Erected here between 1350 and 1450 AD by traders from the court of Kublai Khan, these nets are set up on Teak wood and bamboo poles. The
best place to watch the nets being lowered into the sea and catch being brought in is the Vasco da Gama Square, a narrow promenade that runs along the beach. The Square is ideal place to idle, with stalls serving fresh delicious sea food, tender coconut etc
Santa Cruz Basilica This historic church was built by the Portuguese and elevated to a Cathedral by Pope Paul IV in 1558. In 1795 it fell into the hands of the British when they took over Kochi, and was demolished. About a hundred years later Bishop Dom Gomez Ferreira commissioned a new building at the same site in 1887. The Church was proclaimed a Basilica in 1984 by Pope John Paul II.
Kathakali literally meaning "story dance" is the pantomimic dance drama, the dancing and the acting being blended together into an inseparable form. It is a combination of facial expressions and body movements which brings out the thought and emotion of the character.
Kathakali Theatre We arrived at the theatre at 6pm to watch the Kathakali artist put on his make up on stage, during this an elder explained to us what was
going on and the meanings to the make up, including the religious meanings and the history of Kathakali itself.
Kathakali is predominantly a male art and the dancing is mostly of the masculine type. The position taken by the actor is angular. He never stands erect while acting, his knees being spread out and his legs forming a rhombus, his hands bent at the elbow and his palms on his hips. The outer feet are never flat on the ground and still the actor maintains a perfect balance.
The traditional performance begin at 8 pm and goes until dawn the following morning. It is preceded at sunset by the Kelikottu which is the playing of drums, Gong and cymbals to inform the local people about the performance. Now a days performances are given in halls with footlight and microphones etc. which will not last more than 3 to 4 Hrs. Kathakali plays are mainly based on the stories from the Hindu epic Mahabharata, Ramayana and Bhagavata purana and characters represent the mythological being of the 3 world. The upper(devas or gods),the middle world of humans and the nether world(asuras or demons).The costume and make-up transform the actor mentally
Snake Charmer & the Cobra
This guy had about 6 cobra's and physically to portray the character Kathakali's origin and development owe gratitude to the Royal family of Travancore. The Raja of Kottarakara(17 century) is the earliest exponent of this art. During his time Kathakali plays were staged continuously for 24 hours without any break.
Costumes The headgear worn by the various characters in Kathakali are excellent specimen of intricate wood carving, an ancient specialty of the region. Even the shiny finishing with trinkets takes hours of painstaking labour by expert craftsmen. Most of the ornaments donning each character are made in this fashion too.
Make-up The make-up, called Chutty in the bibliography of Kathakali, is also an art form in itself. The colourful faces are the results of hours of painstaking handiwork by expert artists. Their work is, by no means subordinate to portrait painting. The basic materials used for the make up are very crude items like raw amorphous Sulphur, Indigo, Rice paste, Lime, Coconut oil etc.
Music One of the major distinguishing features of Kathakali is the absence of oral communication. A considerable part of the script is in the form of lyrics, sung by vocalists. The only accompaniments
are percussion instruments. Chenda (Drum played with sticks) Maddalam (Drum played with fingers), Chengila (Gong) and Ilathalam (Cymbals). The style of music traditionally accepted is Sopana, where the range is limited to one and half octaves. However, the influence of Karnataka Style of Classical Music has been irresistible, and the singers often take liberty with the style. It is not unusual that a Kathakali performance take the form of a Jugalbandi (Duet) of singing and acting.
Drumming especially of Chenda is the salient feature of Kathakali. Formerly considered an "Asura Vadyam" meaning one that cannot go in harmony, Chenda has become the most important feature. Artists are capable of producing a range of sounds varying from the gentle rattle of dry leaves in a breeze to reverberating thunder on Chenda.
Dance Although dance is an important element in Kathakali, it is not the main feature. Pure dance sequences are limited to Kalasams, which punctuate acting segments. Female characters spontaneously breaking into "Sari" and "Kummi" dances can be seen in few dramas. The accent in Kathakali is more on the Thandava style of dancing than on Lasya style. Hence the movements are often explosive. Delicate movements are
rare.
A Word of Advice, mainly for the guys reading this. Always read the manual to any electrical purchase As some of you my notice some of the pictures are in black and white that is due to the fact that Fabien had decided to read the manual to the Camera which we both have. Since then he has been teaching me about all the function it has and how to use it to the best of its ability. It’s amazing when you know how!!!!!!
Advertisement
Tot: 0.417s; Tpl: 0.016s; cc: 20; qc: 64; dbt: 0.1184s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.3mb
angela king
non-member comment
its time for something different
Dear Geoff, the photograph is sweet of the cat! I hope all is well with you and calm you train journey looke interesting so I can only think it was. keep on putting on the sun cream and look after you . love Angela.xxx