end of the south

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Back to the city. Sweet Cochin/Kochi, home of the Grand Hotel, where Magee and I just settled into a suite that our guide definitely upgraded us into. The past few days have been a whirlwind to the end of our first trip, but I will do my best to recap..

Before leaving Madurai we visited its famous temple. Over 15,000 people visit this place a day to worship one or more of the 10,000 deities that the Hindu religion has to offer. It's gigantic, and covered with statues and carvings of gods and godesses making it a mecca for people from all over India. Apparently the egyptians used to make a pilgrimage there back in the day. Still today, every day priests cook over 400 free meals and serve them to Madurai's homeless between 12 and 12:30.

From Madurai we headed to the jungles of Periyar. There Magee and I enjoyed a 3 hour trek through the pouring rain to see lots of animal tracks and scat, but not a whole lot more. The highlight was seeing a herd of wild bison only 50 to 60 feet from where we stood on the trail. Bulls on steroids - they could have destroy us in seconds and no one would have ever known. Our guide decided it best to scare them away but if we'd known the bison call for "CHARRRRRGE!" we would have used it.

"See, he can talk to the animals, thats why he is a guide. You and I? We don't know how to talk to the birds or the animals, that's why we aren't guides. He's very special."

Thanks Shaji. More life changing advice from our tour guide. He really has made this first two weeks amazing though - from teaching us how to eat without utensils to telling us about his experiences working on cruises for almost 20 years, and visiting 95 countries.

Our escape from the rain in Periyar came in the form of a hot oil full body massage. You can use your imagination and it won't be half as weird as it really was. I picked my massage from a menu and then was escorted down the hall. My masseuse shook my hand as I walked into his 'office' but we should have spent two months together before getting as intimate as we did.

"Take off all your clothes."

I mean, ya, I knew it was coming but it was still weird. I did as was told even though I paused before taking off my boxers.

"And those."

Again, I knew it. It all happened so quick. One second I'm sitting in a waiting room thinking about how relaxed at be after my 80 minute ayurvedic massage and steam bath and the next second I'm completely naked standing in front of a middle aged Indian man.

I had no idea what was coming next and sensing my confusion he pulled out my 'evening wear'. It was a loin cloth, and it couldnt have covered a new born baby. In the same second that I reached for the piece of cotton, my new boyfriend was reaching around me and dressing me himself. How sweet.

I've never felt so naked in my entire life.

I assumed my position on the table and closed my eyes. Was it going to hurt? Was I going to like it more than I should? Should I back out? With so many questions flying through my head I felt oil begin to drip on my back. I did the only thing that could be done, I giggled. Let the games begin.

The next hour was a blur except for the two times that I stopped to use the restroom. (bladder massage?) His hands flew up and down my back - from my left big toe to my right shoulder blade hitting all important parts in between - in a half a second! Invigorating and awkward.

He was good. At times it felt like there were six hands massaging me at once. At one point I opened my eyes to see if anyone else had joined us in the room as I felt hand everywhere while also being lathered in oil at the same time. Bottom then top.

Finally he asked me to sit up. This was the most awkward part. With my legs dangling over the edge he began to massage my chest and arms while I stared straight ahead. Eye contact would've killed me. It was quiet except for a few awkward questions he asked me.

"You married? Your first time with massage?"

I just spit out yes and no answers and stared straight ahead. Next was the steam bath. It was hot. Thats really all there was to it. I got out covered in sweat and he led me back to the room. I thought we were done. He said we were. But we werent. I needed a rub down. Apparently I couldnt have done it well enough myself, so there I stood once again, naked as the day I was born and had a five foot Indian man use a hand towel to rub essential oils off of my sweating body. Amazing.

+ Its raining so the guy at the internet place is kicking me out early. Tomorrow we fly to Delhi to begin the second half of our Indian excursion up North. More to come soon.

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