Kunnar, 29/01/08

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Arrived at Kunnar rail station at 7.30am, after a fairly uncomfortable 2nd class sleeper jouney of 8 hours - our pre booked lower berths were already occupied by sleeping Indians when we joined the train, so had to clamber up to upper berths with our baggage and try and sleep, not very successfully. At least we had air con, unlike 3 class non reserved, sitting upright on unpadded seats, so we can't complain too much.....

Found reasonable hotel in centre of town, and set about looking for somewhere to stay for a few days. Distinct shortage of anything alcoholic, as it was commemoration of Ghandi's assassination. On 2nd night, decided to try and find a bar/some sort of night life, which to date has been abundant in previous towns. Directed to an 'executive business' hotel, where we were ushered down a side alley and into a dimly lit cellar, full of men (assumed Muslim) standing and drinking - no chairs/tables/candles etc - as Ken entered, a noticeable hush descended - as I followed him you could sense a sharp intake of breath - definately not a place to forge international relations over a pint....beat a hasty retreat to the restaurant upstairs, where although no outward antagonism, still felt v. uncomfortable. Kannur is not really a town on the tourist map, few Westerners in evidence and a prominent Muslim population. The atmosphere on the street is less relaxed and friendly, although all residents we have had personal contact with have treated us with unfailing courtesy.

Pranav Seaside Holiday Home (www.pranavseasidehome.com - take a look..) came to our rescue. It was an inauspicious start to our stay - the narrow beach side road leading to the site started at a small graveyard, of interest as many of the impressive tombs house the remains of prominent Communist party leaders who pioneered the introduction of Communism in the area, which is to this day quite influential. Noticing some activity at the end of the graveyard, saw people assembling what looked like a bonfire - turned out to be a Hindu open air cremation - the deceased was waiting nearby in an ambulance for the pyre to be completed...On Sunday, driving past the same site, there were 6 cremations in progress, some already in flames, other shrouded bodies awaiting their turn. Being Sunday and being near the beach, there were children on pushbikes, teenagers on motorcycles, someone selling ice creams from a handcart and a general holiday atmosphere. Belief in reincarnation is at the heart of Hinduism, and there was no weeping or wailing in evidence - very different from the solemnity and grieving associated with western rituals. The ashes are sprinkled in the ocean afterwards.

Pranav Seaside home is a collection of small log-cabin like chalets, right next to the only beach we've come across (and we have looked...) that you would want to spend time on - think Bounty adverts, and that just about describes it. The sea is warm, with a very gently shelving beach and good non-life-threatening surf to loon about in - perfect - and the sunsets are sublime..

Knowing that we wanted to witness a Theyyam celebration which is performed at this time of year all over Kerala, the owner took us to the last night of Theyyam held in Kannur, a non-commercial genuine ritual evening of dance, drumming and trance-induced prophesy by the exotically made up dancers, local people who have inherited the status of Theyyam through the family tree. Astonishing make up and costume, hypnotic drumming and dancing that was like a 'controlled frenzy' ending in a trance state - we both felt honoured to have witnessed it. The local people then consult the Theyyam with their problems, the reply is translated by an intermediary as the Theyyam 'speaks in tongues' whilst in the trance. It is all taken very seriously....

Discussing our next move with the owner of Pranav, decided we wanted to visit Wayanad, about 100 kms away where there are nature reseves with elephant and (if you are lucky) tigers to be seen. On returnign from town, the owner had been in touch with a Homestay residence on the fringes of the best reserve - she was planning to bring 2 of her guests to stay at Pranav on Wednesday, so had a room free and would take us back with her in her 4 x 4 - how good is that?! So watch this space folks - there will be more....

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Comments

[Canice]

Don't bring that Ken anywhere near them Tigers, you know what he's like.................