Munnar Yesterday .... Alappuzha Today

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The lady slumber was forcefully driven away by the alarm at 5:00, an unearthly hour. The chill in the air was making it very difficult to move out from the warmth of the blanket and jump off the bed. With reluctance …. Up and under the hot water shower. Brijesh, the man with many hats, had ensured the hot water supply and steaming hot cup of tea. It was the time to bid farewell to Double Tree Villa Resort, and Chinnakanal, Munnar.

Oh ! Much against the desire, we have to leave Munnar today ….

To embark on a long drive to Alappuzha, our next destination. The Google Maps says 184 Kms and the travel time of 5.5 hours. The time estimation was proved totally wrong while traveling from Kochi to Munnar. The average speed in the ghat section gets reduced to 25/30 Km/Hr. In other words, we have to gear up to get confined to the car for next 6 to 7 hours. The solace was the vehicle .... Maruti Ertiga, which offered quite comfortable drive and our polite driver Rajesh has been a good travel companion.

It is sharp 6 o’clock and we hit the narrow deserted Suryanelly Road. In the unfathomable darkness, we were still secretly hoping to encounter a herd of wild elephants for a photo shoot … utterly disappointed. The Sun has not yet risen and we were passing through tea estates after tea estates. Munnar town was still fast asleep, when we commenced the descent of ghats. The spice shops on the highway had their billboards illuminated but no sign of any human activity around. Some villagers were making sudden appearances probably to move towards their plantations. Unlike other parts of the country, we did not find a single villager, with a water container in hand, and crossing the road to reach farms, for relieving themselves. The little exposure to this state has made me realize that it is one of the cleanest state in the country.

Beyond the rows of mountains, we would see the subtle Sun peeping out. The sky had started adoring warm orange glow. The clouds rendered a prefect contrast to the skyscape. The flocks of birds started appearing on the horizon relentlessly heading towards an unknown destination. The roads continued to remain deserted. Occasionally a SUV carrying tourists to Thekkady would zoom past. Either our car had to wait to allow it to pass or the oncoming vehicle braked to let us move. Small group of devout Christians was seen to be marching towards the village Church. Hymns sung in the local language were very soothing and melodious to hear in the early morning hour. Numerous flags and buntings lay scattered on the road as a mute evidence of the political meeting earlier day. On the whole, the Iduki district seemed to be still asleep. It was an unusual experience, for a native of an ever-awake city. A gentle timely reminder that you are on a holiday …. by choice to break the monotony of routine city life.

After crossing the Adimally village, the descent was nearly complete, and we were moving towards the plains. As we were approaching Neriamangalam, the body system had started giving symptoms that it is the time to break the fast. In the last 2.5 hours of travel, we had not come across a single restaurant of whatsoever type or size open. A steaming hot tea would have certainly been refreshing. Miles and miles of drive, we were still looking out for restaurant, to serve us pan-fresh snacks.

It was only after 9:00, we could locate one street-side restaurant at Oonukul, which was open and serving snacks too. Rasa – Pure Veg, with a large courtyard, mainly catered to travellers. The snacks turned out to quite hot and tasty ones …usual Dosa, Idly, and Vada with filter coffee. Double serving was needed … still a long way to go. The service was little time-consuming and poor. Our pit-stop had turned into a long one.

The drive after the break was mostly through busy congested roads. There was a movement of vehicles, of different types and sizes, moving from all sides. NH-49 took us toward Kochi, where we had to switch-over NH-47. The driver was paying some Toll … This is the first time we saw a toll booth. In the state of Maharashtra, every 50 Kms, you are required to shelve out a minimum of Rs.50/- . The toll here could be paid by loose change … surprising. Firstly so low toll fees and secondly is it really worth to make every vehicle stop and collect some change.

First time during this trip, we crossed the bridge across backwaters .. Kollam – Kottapuram Waterway. The waterway was lined with swaying palm trees on both sides. Truly “Picture Post-Card” waterscape, we see in Kerala Tourism literature.

The temperature was soring rapidly and the heat was now becoming unbearable. It’s noon time and the destination, seemed very far. The chauffeur informs that it will take minimum of 1 hour to reach Alappuhza. The chilled bottled water was failing to quench the thirst … and it's the time to look out for alternative. A pit-stop for Kingfisher Premium @ Rs. 200 was a must. Quickly picked up a few at the street side parlor and moved on. There were fishermen displaying a variety of fishes at every junction. It was a clear indication that we have arrived in the coastal Kerala. In equal numbers were vegetable and fruit vendors offering exotic local varieties. The density of political flags, bunting, flex-hoardings glorifying leaders, vehicles and political workers intensified. The newer flags of most national parties came into sight. Our vehicle had to constantly cut down its speed to allow the movement of political workers. They seemed charged, active and dedicated towards their identified cause.

The driver informed us that CCTV cameras have been installed all along the highway and if any vehicle crosses the speed limit, it will be subject hefty fine. What was admirable that all drivers respected and dutifully followed the traffic rules. Helmetless bicycle riders were being booked practically at every crossroad. Since the traffic moved slowly, I could watch the police machinery in action. I did not find any policeman settling the matter by having his palms greased …. Appreciate. Neither did I find policeman hiding behind a tree … waiting for the motorist to disobey the signal … whistle .. ask for the license and … finally “settle’ the matter. It is a common sight in the large city like Mumbai.

Alas .. it was past 1:00 pm and we reached Alappuhza. The next task was to locate Kanjippadam Ferry Jetty. The GPS was on. It said 15 Kms and 45 minutes. By following the navigation, somehow managed to reach the jetty little before 2:00. It has been truly exhausting road travel of almost 200 kms and 8 hours of forceful confinement. Looked forward to relaxed overnight stay in a houseboat. Our local travel agent had pre-arranged a houseboat for us. It was 2-Bedroom AC, Shikara-type, houseboat at Rs. 10,000/- for the overnight stay. The captain, his assistant and the chef were eagerly waiting for us at the jetty. The assistant quickly uploaded our bags on to the houseboat ….. and here we go. The diesel-powered houseboat started its sail in the Kollam – Kottapuram Waterway. The Palm fringed canals and shores bustling with glimpses from the day to day life in the country side, was the sight to behold.

The boat had two, spacious enough, clean bedrooms, with attached bath. The housekeeping standard was much above the expectation. I later learnt that all houseboats are required to maintain certain standard and are subject to regular inspection by Tourism Department or an appropriate authority. Each bedroom had a large window overlooking the villages on the banks of waterway.

We opted to move onto upper deck with the Kingfisher Premium for the company. About an hour’s sail, the houseboat took us to somewhere near Pullangady and the engine stopped. The houseboat got anchored near a paddy field. The birds in the surrounding were picking small fishes for their meal. The assistant came up to inform us that the lunch is ready and it was the time for us to come down the main living area for lunch.

The lunch, apparently, was packed and picked up from a common kitchen, somewhere near the jetty and carried along. The chef warmed the food and served it in style. Green Salad, Rice, Papad, Gravy and Fried Fish .. a large and fresh one. The sweet-water fish cooked using local spices was simply delicious. The overpowering hunger and soothing Kingfisher helped us to swallow the meals in quickest possible time. There was a large fruit basket laid out on the table. The chef arranged to peel the pineapple and served us as a desert. The bottled water, though not chilled, was in abundant supply at no extra cost.

Since we had checked-in late, the time available for siesta was very short. We did make most of it by heading to our rooms. No air conditioner during the day time … was one of the important term of the contract. The climate was relatively good and the breeze from the fan could suffice.

By 3:30 the assistant came knocking at the door to inform that the sail will commence now. Refreshed with the brief rest, we were out on the deck again to capture the waterscape on our cameras for recording the memories of backwater voyage. The chef had meanwhile freshly fried Onion Pakodas and served us with hot Masala Tea. Fruits were replenished and unlimited supply was available.

There were villagers on both sides of the waterway … some washing utensils, or cloths. School-boats were ferrying students from the school to their respective abode alongside the waterway. Parents were found to anxiously waiting for the return of their wards at the jetties en route. There was a public-transport ferry, possibly operated by local self-government, making rounds for the benefit of local population.

The houseboats engaged by tourist sailed by. The international tourists relishing their sunbath on the upper deck was a common sight. Occasionally, they waived hands to the occupants of the passing houseboat. The international tourists outnumbered the domestic travelers by a very large margin. The domestic travelers mostly consisted on honeymooners .... on their day out and continued to be engrossed in their own small world. The most common sight was their popping out selfie-sticks to capture the intimate solitary moments.

Overall the atmosphere was relaxing, refreshing and rejuvenating. Sun had moved westward and the houseboat too changed its direction to head towards the west. On a side of the waterway, there was a narrow path for the villagers, on which we could spot some motorcycles being plied. No car or any other vehicle was visible. On the other side, there were hotels and backwater resorts in the background of paddy fields.

A remarkable feature of the Captain of the houseboat and the crew was that the entire team was non-interfering and allowed the occupants all freedom that they were entitled to. The service was with a smile and made their appearance only when called for.

Around 6 o’clock in the evening, just before the sunset, the houseboat was anchored for the day. There were a rows of houses near the jetty.. which later we learnt was a resort owned by the owner of the houseboat. Riverine Backwater Resort. From the interiors, it seemed to be a newly constructed resort. We disembarked to unwind and take a small walk through the paddy field. There were different varieties of birds in the field. Up above in the sky, we could spot flocks of birds returning to their abode at the fall of the day.

Since there wasn’t much to observe, we decided to make an early return to the houseboat … to start the “Evening Session with Single Malt”. The lights were put on … and suddenly it became impossible to hang on the deck. The lights attracted moths and insects in such large numbers … simply unbearable to hold on. The idea of having the session within the confines of room was highly unromantic. … difficult thought to gulp down. We summoned the assistant and asked for a remedy … he simply put off the lights and got few candles. Oh ! Candlelight Session – Great. Barely few minutes and we were attacked by hordes of mosquitoes. We could no longer continue to be attired in T-shirts and shorts. The assistant provided us mosquito repellent gel, which coupled with gulping down Single Malt, had its desired impact on the session.

The resort had hardly any guest except one elderly couple from Netherlands, who exchanged pleasantries with us before commencement of the meal. The food was much similar to the lunch. As per the standard menu, the houseboat serves chicken for the dinner. However, acceding to our special request, fried fish of local variety was served. It was as delicious as the one served at the previous meal.

By the time the dinner was completed, the air conditioner was made operational, by drawing electricity from the resort. Although there was a LCD TV in the main living area, there was no cable connection. We could see a large collection of VCDs but we did not need them. The twinkling lights, from the resorts on the banks of waterway, were reflecting in the serene water. The world around had retired for the day under the starlit sky. The deafening silence beckoned the sleep unusually early and it was an end of a day … beautifully spent. While rolling on the bed … one could feel the smooth sailing on the backwater, swaying palms, occasionally passing country craft. ……

Old habits die hard … and much before the clock struck 6 … I was up again, having lived a dream. To face a new day and to undertake travel to a new destination on the itinerary .... I quietly emerged out of the houseboat to take a stroll in the paddy fields. All at the resort, including the watchman … were still fast asleep. There must be hardly any cases of theft or robbery in this state.

I continued with my stroll, till I noticed some human movement at the resort. The kitchen seemed to have opened and it was the right time to request for a hot cup of tea. The cook readily obliged and made me feel that he felt privileged to serve me. The sense of hospitality was highly appreciable. The houseboat did not have hot-water geyser but the assistant personally carried few buckets of hot water for bathing. That is called service … highly impressed.

The Sun had already appeared on the horizon. The cloudy sky blurred the orange glow. There was a regular movement of motorcycles on the pathway along the banks. The houseboats had started their morning cruise. Small country crafts, supplying essentials to villagers, had embarked on their sorties. Occasionally, tourists from passing houseboats, waived at us wishing good morning. It was the time for our houseboat to sail.

As we moved west-ward, the assistant laid out break-fast for us. Highly nutritious and filling - Idiappam, sevai made from white rice flour and coconut, accompanied by sweet sheera, bread butter, fresh fruits and Masala Tea. By the time we consumed our break-fast, the houseboat took an about turn to sail towards the jetty. Intermittently, during our breakfast, we had to stop for clicking few pictures …. To pursue the passion as also for the sake of record-keeping.

The east-ward turn was painful and was reminding us that the beautiful day has indeed ended. Soon we will have to disembark and board the car to move to the next coastal destination …. Varkala Beach.

It was a lifetime experience … to be on a houseboat, all by yourself, breathing fresh unpolluted air, watching waterscapes, landscapes and the horizon in 360 degrees.. A real treat to all sensory organs …. Yeh Dil Mange More. Much More.





Alappuzha :

Alappuzha is considered to be the “Venice of the East” and is one of the oldest planned city in the southern state of Kerala.

It is an important tourist destination offering houseboat cruise along rustic Kerala Backwaters. The picturesque Palm fringed canals, backwaters, lagoons and shores bustling with glimpses from the day to day life in the country side, offer an enchanting experience to the tourists..

It is located about 65 kms to the south of Kochi and 155 kms north of Thiruvanthpuram.

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Photos

Smooth Sail ...
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