Finally, on the ground

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The new British Air flight from Los Angeles to Bangalore is probably the best I have ever flown to India. With a total transit time of 21 hours with only a 2 hour stop in London's Heathrow, the flight went very well. It's interesting but painful to experience the down sizing of the seating space from London to Bangalore compared to LAX to London. My knees were wedged into the seat in front of me for the leg to India beause either I grew by three inches or the airline took 3+ inches out of the space between seats!

So welcome to India. The Bangalore international luggage terminal is a room big enough to hold one 30 foot long luggage carousel and about 100 people. Try jamming 400 people from a single flight with their luggage and carts and you learn to just relax and take your time. I was last person out since BA didn't deliver one piece of luggage. After filling out the lengthy forms, I was last person to clear customs. When they learned I had 2 laptops, customs informed me that a duty was required on the second. Asked to declare its value, a duty of 40% of value was assessed. When they showed me $200 on the calculator, I said that we must ship it back immediately, that it was too much money and that I didn't have that much $. When he asked if I needed a receipt for the duty and that the amounts could be discussed if no receipt was required, the lights started burning bright through the jet lag haze. This was a shake down for mordida, for payola. There I was, last person off the flight, alone in the customs except for the two agents. One translating, the other changing the amount due. I negotiated down to $100 immediately, then switched tactics. I asked to go get Dr. Aiyar who was waiting for me. He will pay you the money I urged. When the customs officers learned that I had family waiting outside, that I had been detained for almost 1/2 hour and they would be making inquiries about my where abouts, I was immediately shown the exit door by the customs agents. I laughed out loud and quietly welcomed myself to India as I passed through the gateway to freedom!

The sights and sounds of India at 6 a.m. are those of a city awakening. The taxis and auto rikshaws are just starting to fill the streets. The incessant honking of horns at every occasion by every driver start to sound about 7 a.m. and are a constant reminder of the traffic in Bangalore. I arrive at my in-laws home to cups of fresh brewed South Indian coffee. I have been looking forward to this for exactly one year and it is everything I had hoped it would be. Hot, strong, sweet and delicious. A breakfast of hot paradhas and spicy bean curd followed . As I savored the tastes of India, reading the morning papers on the sun deck, the door bell rang and the guests and neighbors begin to arrive to say good morning and to welcome me to India. It is the steady stream of door bells, of people and telephone calls that always amazes me. Everyone is so friendly, so genuinely happy to see you arrive safely, that it is refreshing, if not a bit tiring.

With jet lag rushing head on, I am driven to the St. Mark's hotel where I chose to stay for 2 days until I start my education and another part of my adventure at IIMB. Wih so many guests and family members staying at my in-laws over the holiday season, I knew better than to try and rest at their home. So I will over come the immediate jet lag elsewhere. After a shower and short nap, I enjoyed a wonderful drink and diner and met numerous friends of my wife's aunt, Raji Laskminarayan. She hosted me at the Bangalore Club, a magnificent old social club founded in 1897.

After an excellent night's sleep, I was rewarded with a traditional South Indian breakfast at the hotel St. Mark. Starting with a cup of South Indian coffee, I started with vadas (I call them Indian doughnuts!), deliciously spicy sambar, rice idli, sculpted banana, mango, dates and then tried a fresh egg omelette with white toast. I went back for a second round of vadas, sambar and fruit. The peaceful sitar and horn music gave me cause to reflect on the simplicity of the food and its exquisite tastes. The simple flower in a small clear glass bowl on the table, the fresh fruits and spices of the earth giving rise to the understanding that life is precious and that such beauty and bounty is to be cherished. I was left greatful for the opportunity to be in India, full up and fed up, and ready to start on my first full day of adventure.

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