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Nal-pani
Thank you, machete-wielding coconut man! To all my friends and loved ones who have anxiously been awaiting my inaugural posting from India, I say “Namaste” with much love and respect. I have been caught in the swift current of the human river this past week, but have finally found my rudder and am navigating quite well. You will notice me returning to water imagery throughout these musings - appropriate given the nature of my work here - but I will try to keep them on point. Last night, while relaxing after a day in the village on the balcony of the 13th floor Ebony Lounge in Bangalore, I witnessed an incredible pre-monsoon lightning display that ignited the sky from the Arabian Sea to the Western Ghats. Since energy is another focal point for this USAID project, you will note the connection. On another level, the characteristics of both water and energy inspire me to write to all of you - simultaneously connected to sources and ends, constantly changing yet always the same…
Although this two-month journey began in Mumbai last Saturday, May 28th, the only pictures I have to show for my time there are mental. It is difficult to find time to snap photos
when you’re hit with such sharp contrasts and must instantly adjust to new languages, a frenzied pace, extremes of both wealth and poverty, and the ubiquitous HEAT (try 102F with 95%!h(MISSING)umidity)!! Fortunately, I had my elder “brother” Abhijit to ease the transition. After three days of visiting with relatives on both sides, I said goodbye until July. But a little part of Mumbai would continue with me on my journey - a gut-wrenching parasite that, most likely, came from chewing “paan” (betel nut, lime , acacia, tobacco, and other flavors wrapped in a spade-shaped leaf washed with, ugh, tap water) prepared at a roadside stand. No need for pictures of that….
I was thoroughly impressed and pleasantly surprised by the effect that the opening of domestic airline routes has had on travel in India. Air Sahara gets rave reviews from me, not just because of the carnival-like atmosphere on board (no goats and chickens, in case that’s what you’re thinking), but also because both I and my bag made it to Bangalore after arriving at the airport with only 25 minutes until departure (I like to live dangerously). I met my contact from IIEC
(website) at the
No one here but us chickens
An alternative source of income Taj Residency hotel (fully modern and, in my opinion, a total waste of money unless one only wants to alternately sleep and puke in relative opulence) and met the rest of the WENEXA (Water-Energy Nexus) project team. The work, my friends, is really good and has the potential to make a dramatic impact on people’s lives…
My experience truly began when I left the comfort of my 5-star hotel the following day. I began by negotiating prices with three-wheeled left-handed auto-rickshaw drivers. Haggling should always be a good-natured thing - using what little Hindi (although most here speak Kannada) I have and keeping things in perspective (43 rupees = 1 dollar) surely helps. I am staying now in a simple but clean room at the Karnataka State Electricity Board’s Engineers Association guesthouse for 350 rupees per night (vs. $260 per night at the Taj). I have used my camping skills to establish a perimeter inside which few mosquitoes can penetrate. Other than working in the field in the heat of the day (which takes stamina, baby) I get my exercise by running in the early morning (when the pollution is a bit milder) and by sneaking into the pool
Sacred cows
Rush hour obstacles in Bangalore and fitness center at the Taj West End (I made friends with a guard a few days back).
Now, on to the village. We are working with a local contractor to complete the GPS survey of two electrical feeders (including all poles, transformers, and branches) and perform agricultural pump-set efficiency testing (ratio of water horsepower created to energy used). Broadly speaking, the land has been “drying up” as the effects of drought, the dissolution of community-based water management, and mining of groundwater have created an unsustainable cycle. Farmers increasingly drill their own wells, and much effort is spent in deepening them as the water table drops (to, in some places, over 850’!!). People are resigned to just working harder, praying harder. There are small temples, to Vishnu, Shiva, Nandi (we are in the shadows of the Nandi Hills), and Ganesha, and often we talk to the Brahmin-priest and receive his blessings. But there is some hard science and some practical hurdles that need to be overcome. For instance, obtaining simple static water level measurements is made more difficult by the fact that the submersible pump and piping rests on the casing (its sheer weight is a deterrent from other
Riding the bull Nandi
I climbed up to the top of Nandi Hills for an overview of project area (in background) farmers sabotaging their wells).
In the field, I subsist on nal-pani (coconut water from fresh green coconut), jackfruit, and other local freshies. The villages are very poor, and I am not yet ready to chance the local lime rice and pakoras in spite of my restored constitution. There are many difficulties to village life, yet people seem happy and resigned to their lives. Look at the pictures if you don’t believe me…
I return to the glitz of Bangalore in the late evening, have some Andhra-style “thali” (all you can eat fiery-hot veg or non-veg dals and curries served on banana leaves) for less than 100 rupees, a few beers (Kingfisher mild is the way to go, cold and smooth!!) at the pubs that this place is famous for. There are citizens of the world at every turn, but I tend to just blend in and use my thick “Butter-pecan” accent to seem more a local (many of the highly educated IT nouveau-riche speak the King’s English). I have negotiated a new cell phone set up for less than 600 rupees, but leave it on silent as I would hate to have it ring in a temple when
Plow the red earth
And you thought taking out the trash was hard... pooja and chalisas are being offered…
So many sounds, smells, sights to describe, but this and the pictures will have to suffice for now. Most of you will be sleeping off your respective Saturday nights as I post this - I miss you all and am keeping you close as I travel this magical land. As the love of my life told me recently, “Be well. Live well.” Well said, Kristen…
Love,
Kiran
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anonymous
non-member comment
Good to see your making an hones living for a change!
It is about time you started earning your keep once again. I bet you miss the wonderful food found in downtown Oxford, PA! Good luck in your endeavors in india and congratulations on your acceptance to Yale. Your dad is still breaking things here as ususal. He is very proud our your accomplishments. Keep up the good work! - Jeff Davis