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Published: October 21st 2005
It’s difficult to pinpoint at what exact moment we decided that heading North, way North, into the still disputed region of Kashmir was a good idea. Clearly, our decision was largely influenced by the family that ran the hotel we were staying at in Dharamsala, with whom we became friends with over the course of our stay. Not coincidently, they were Kashmiri, and spent a great time of our time together espousing the unparalleled beauty of their motherland…which they convinced us was the most beautiful area of India, once known commonly as the “Jewel of India”.
Before the increased conflict starting in the late eighties, Kashmir was very much a tourist destination. Since that time, the total annual number of tourists has fallen from roughly 880,000 to 2000 (according to the Lonely Planet). Ouch. This insane decrease was evident in the number of abandoned hotels and other tourist aimed shops that now seem to ‘litter’ the villages. This scenario was very similar to what we found in Nepal, again where the increased clashes with the Maoists have had a serious impact on tourism over the last few years and is only now beginning to recover.
Anyways, upon our safe
Looking good
Flattering...no. Warm...yes!return we have no regrets, and can see how Kashmir has gained its reputation for having a beautiful landscape. However, for us the cultural and religious aspects of Kashmir were possibly more striking. They were so distinct from any part of India we have been in that we really felt like we had entered into another country. And considering a) the amount of security/checkpoints b) the number of military personal, tanks, and police hanging about and of course c) the spectacle we caused trying to get in and out of the region, we may as well have been trying to get into the USA from Cuba.
So, on differences we observed (from our admittedly sheltered perspectives)…First of all, Kashmir is mainly Muslim. This gave the area a very different feeling that other parts of India. October is Ramadan in the Muslim religion, so this meant most people were observing a sunrise to sunset fast for the whole month. This was signified daily by about an hour of "praying" broadcasted over the whole town at 4am, and then again at around 6pm, to signify the end and beginning of the fasting period each day. No need for an alarm clock.
Secondly and maybe related, we quickly noticed that all of our interactions were with men. Men ran the hotels; men ran the restaurants, the shops…men, men, men. When we asked about this, we were told women do the ‘other work’. This meant the more physical labor; the farming, carrying and chopping of firewood, and of course taking care of the children etc. We didn't have one conversation with a women the whole week we were there.
Another distinction was the climate. Below we are seen wearing the ever fashionable ‘ferran’. I guess we should have looked into the weather but failed to, and the temperatures dropped a few degrees below zero for the evening and the night. These temperatures are one thing with central heating, but a very different thing without it. Any concern over missing a part of the Canadian winter vanished. Quickly.
Ok, that was supposed to be a short update. Oops. We are back in Dharamsala now and tonight we head back into the inferno (Delhi) to meet up with Paul and continue our trip south…far away from any possibility of frost.
We have posted more pictures in our Nepal gallery...sorry about the delay!
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Iva Janiga
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aaaaw how I miss you!
Hello fellow globetrotter and jewel of the nile! How often you cross the wandering paths of my thoughts! When I run into difficulty on my own travels (teaching english in Japan is no piece of cake, Ive never had to juggle such a schedule before, its exhausting me to the core!) and I miss home I think, what would Tara do? She would be laughing about everything right now in her slow and beautiful Tara way and letting it flow an not worrying! And somehow it would all work out ! Then I miss you and send you hugs across the global network of collective unconsciousness. Heres one now......! Please give Paul a big squeeze for me, and send him love too. Love iva tha diva