The Hill Stations

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Dharamsala. Home of the Dalai Lama. Unfortunately I missed hearing the His Holiness speak by one day and so I by-passed Dharamsala, the city, and went a little further up to the tourist haunt that is Mcleod Ganj, or upper Dharamsala. It is swarming with tourists, but it doesn't necessarily feel that way. The beautiful Tibetan people ensure it keeps a certain calm and tranquility about the place, amidst the chaos. For such a small place, there is a lot going on. There are as many 'tourist' bus operating companies and trekking companies as you would find in any bigger city and they're all crammed into three narrow 'main' streets, in amongst the Tibetan traders, small restaurants and clothing stores (there is surprisingly a lot of these too). You share the small narrow streets with buses and cars, motorbikes and dogs, tourists and locals and the many many puddles of dirty water. But like I said, there's definitely a nice feeling about the palce, regardless of the rain. It rains a lot here. It is after all in the mountains, and it's not like I didn't expect it. But it rained, every day. Every day I was subjected to what seemed to be out of no where downpours. A mysterious misty fog would also appear and create a certain eeriness and magical quality to the town, and whilst at times it felt like I could be in a scene out of 'The Craft', circa 90's, there was something rather peaceful about it, and every day I would wait in anticipation for it to come over. The only downside about the consistent fog and rain, was the fact I could never really see (what I hear are) the amazing sights surrounding these mountain towns. I never really knew what lay about ten meters either side of the town. Luckily, upon my return, a month later, I was able to see beyond the mist, and wow, it's true what they say, it was indeed beautiful. Unfortunately the only reason I was able to see the beauty that lay beyond the border was because of the out of this world torrential downpours that happened every day I was there. Heavy torrential rain = clear skies. Hmmm I'm not sure what I'd rather.

Mcleod Ganj. A great place to start my India journey. A place where its locals reminded me of Nepal. A place with good food and friendly locals. Friends and music and relaxation. I ran into the beautiful Bettina and Tommy and was lucky enough to run into Ily and Paul, who were staying in the even more intriguing although somewhat difficult to get to (with a bag as big as mine) Daramcot which lies two villages up from Mcleod. A truly calm place with tiny little local hippy hangouts dotted along a narrow forest like fairy path. After two days I decided to move to Bhagsu, the village in between the two. A happy medium. Less touristy than Mcleod, still with a nice hippy/hangout musical calm like Daramcot, and cheap. I paid 150 Rs for a more than ok room with a soft enough mattress and plush pillow (all I need is a good pillow!) I hung out in Bhagsu for the next three days, literally chilling out. I had my cheap as chips, delicious breakfast hangout right next door to my guesthouse and my inspiring dinner eatery 'Munchies' where I'd go to listen to some very talented backpackers having a jam session, and every night I'd sit there, almost about to join in, but holding back because they were just sooooo good! Ahhh music, it really does soothe the soul.

I met some wonderful people whom I'd heard talking about Vipassana, it's always lovely to speak to others who've done the course and share your experiences, but like I said, Dharamsala (Mcleod and Bhagsu) literally a chill out, rest and recover from my three days in transit, and, the perfect place to do it. Just beware, there's so much moisture in the air, things tend to get a little musky and mouldy, mmm nothing like mould. Seriously though, everything gets quite damp and nothing dry's because of the constant rain, but it definitely doesn't put a dampner on things, haha sorry, I had to, it's just another wonderful obstacle to overcome 😊

For those who are considering travelling to these towns, I totally recommend it, but maybe go after doing something strenuous, as I started to get itchy feet after four days. There are definitely things to see and do around the place, but I wasn't really there at the ideal time and the rain kind of spoiled 'activity time'. Nevertheless, there's plenty to do indoors and if you're ready for a bit of relaxation and to chill out, this place is perfect! They've got a cinema. Yes, you read correctly. A little cinema, showing all the newest releases and some old time faves. A few weeks ago, upon my return, I watched Django Unchained, brilliant!

Oh I've just read over my writing, which is always scary, and I feel like I'm not giving this place the review it deserves. Of course with every place I travel it depends on my frame of mind, time of year and people that I meet, but Dharamsala is by no means a place to miss. If you're looking for yoga or meditation or to attend one of the Dalai Lama's teachings, this is the perfect place to come. You'll find many like minded people here, sitting in cafe's, ready to have discussions with you about your practice, yes there are plenty of these wonderfully calm people around 😊 This wonderful little hill station is also the perfect place to get a feeling for the hardships the Tibetan refugees face. There are many small cafes, restaurants and clothing stores that are promoting a better life for the Tibetan's. Many cafe's are non-profit and support refugees with money and or donated clothes, and you'll find awareness 'free tibet' posters and t-shirts everywhere. The best thing, is the people are open about the situation in Tibet, and if you have the time, would be happy to share their experiences. I was lucky enough to be sitting in Common Ground Cafe when a young American group were listening to a Tibetan Refugee speak about her experiences and the current situation in Tibet. Let's just say it was very interesting. So if practicing yoga, and meditating, getting insight into the situation in Tibet, eating good food and zenning out, aren't your types of activities, then don't worry, there's plenty more to see and do. Bhagsu is full of jewellery shops offering jewellery making courses (all for reasonable prices) and there are more music stores than you can poke a stick at, offering classes in everything from singing and dancing to sitar and jambla. Daramcot has a Vipassana centre too, if you're looking for a change your life kind of journey, and if you still can't find anything to take your fancy, there's plenty of great restaurants and coffee shops in which you can pass your time.

Bhagsu is full of jewellery shops offering jewellery making courses (all for reasonable prices) and there are more music stores than you can poke a stick at, offering classes in everything from singing and dancing to sitar and jambla. Being the mountains, there's also plenty of yoga and meditation around, in fact I think Daramcot has the Vipassana centre. And if none of those things take your fancy, there's plenty of great restaurants and coffee shops in which you can pass your time. My favourites would have to be; at the top of the list, without a doubt, the Japanese restaurant, who's name escapes me, maybe because everytime I went there I was literally just focusing on what I was going to order and failed to read that name that is no doubt printed on every menu ...but anyway, it's situated at the beginning of Mcleod Ganj, and the food is amazing, traditional and amazing, ohhhh yes! My next favourite, for one of the best spinach and cheese omlettes I think I've ever had (it was so fluffy) and a hot chocolate that good it could almost rival the best hot chocolates in Melbourne, was my breakfast hang out, cafe Budan. A great place to chill, with free wi fi too. Nice friendly, fat street/cafe dogs to pat too! The next honourable mention would have to be Cafe Common Ground which is just up from the main square in Mcleod, they make some pretty tasty Tibetan/Chinese food and the restaurant has a really nice atmosphere. As mentioned before Munchies is pretty good, for a cheap feed in Bhagsu, but you just can't beat the Japanese restaurant (Le...ahh almost had it ).

My favourites would have to be; at the top of the list, without a doubt, the Japanese restaurant, who's name escapes me, maybe because everytime I went there I was literally just focusing on what I was going to order and failed to read that name that is no doubt printed on every menu ...but anyway, it's situated at the beginning of Mcleod Ganj, and the food is amazing, traditional and amazing, ohhhh yes! My next favourite, for one of the best spinach and cheese omlettes I think I've ever had (it was so fluffy) and a hot chocolate that good it could almost rival the best hot chocolates in Melbourne, was my breakfast hang out,cafe Budan. A great place to chill, with free wi fi too. Nice friendly, fat street/cafe dogs to pat too! The next honourable mention would have to be Cafe Common Ground which is just up from the main square in Mcleod, they make some pretty tasty Tibetan/Chinese food and the restaurant has a really nice atmosphere. As mentioned before Munchies is pretty good, for a cheap feed in Bhagsu, but you just can't beat the Japanese restaurant (Le...ahh almost had it, oh I've got it, Lung Ta, or something like that, anyway, ask anyone and they'll be able to point you in the right direction 😊

As already mentioned, I was getting itchy feet in Dharamsala just hanging around, so it was time for me to move on. From Dharamsala I took an overnight, rather bumpy, mini bus to Manali. It took about ten hours, if memory serves me correctly. I arrived and paired up with a lovely couple from England/Ireland, Yasmine and Lawrence, who were also on the bus, and we made out way to Apple View guest house, hidden up behind Old Manali on a hill. It had a spectacular view and good food, oh and wi fi. I only stayed for a night but it was everything you said it was, random stoned backpacker, so thanks for the recommendation!



I settled in for a well deserved sleep (after arriving at 5am and not really getting any sleep at all on the bus, it was safe to say I was wrecked) and then decided to suss out this trip to Leh. We were both keen to get going in the next two days, regardless of how beautiful Manali was, I just wanted to get up there. So we wandered into Old Manali and started looking around, sussing out companies and buses and options. We found a fairly good option (considering how bad the road's reputation was). We found a shared mini bus for 1,700Rs, including dinner and overnight accomodation in tents. Brilliant. We booked. I then spent the rest of the day be-friending a beautiful dog and walking the back streets and alleyways of this rather impressive town. Once you get away from the crowds (it is also full of tourists) this place really is magical. I spent some time writing on a rock, overlooking the fast flowing river, about 45minutes walk from the centre of Old town. Magical. I then followed a tiny stone path, through the local houses, past the marijuana plants, to some apple orchards and finally returned to the guest house. A lovely day, a day that left me wanting more, and positive that I would return. (It turns out I didn't, but one day I will.) The pure lushness of the area was astounding, and the fact that it didn't rain for that one day I was there, was welcome relief. The fact I could actually go for a walk/mini trek, was just wonderful. Ah Manali, yes one day I will be back to explore your surrounds, because from what I saw on the drive out, I was impressed. A foreverness of green rolling hills, hugging the flowing river. Mmmmm, lush indeed.

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Photos

Typical
The day I leave it's beautifully clear

Meet my 'godson'
I may have bought a replacement guitar:)

apple view guest house
manali