Buddhist-Hindu Monsoon Greetings

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August 26, 2008

Hello from McLeodganj,

I am staying in a great place here…after staying in a worse place for a night, I scoped out the area and found a wonderful guesthouse with marble floors, huge room, very clean, TV and very new. It’s really inexpensive and I often calculate that if I shared expenses with someone, this room would cost me $3 a night, but since I am a single traveler, it is costing me $6! It is a nice warm tolerable temperature here, but the monsoon is in full bloom. It is very damp here, and it is cloudy, foggy and overcast. It rains everyday, but not unlike a November in Vancouver. The mornings are the best with some sun shining through for a short time, then the clouds roll in, thunder roars and rains falls. Again, like Manali, there are no heaters anywhere to dry things out, so dampness prevails and the smell of musty, mold can be detected everywhere I go usually. This is the only drawback of it here. Other than that, I like it here a lot. The mix of Hindu and Buddhist is soothing to me. The town is small and easy to figure out. I went to the residence area of the Dalai Lama and Namgyal Temple and square where he makes speeches. I asked his security guard at the gate if Dalai Lama was available for a coffee but he wasn’t .. darn! There are hundreds of monks here and their presence makes for a calm, inviting and peaceful place. I walked to the next village, Bhagsu and on the way back had a great walk and talk with a local Tibetan monk. He was so nice and interesting. As usual, there are many tourists here and streets are lined selling souvenirs and Tibetan handicrafts.

The temple and square is a treat to see. The Buddhists walk around it in a clockwise fashion as a ritual, while others prostrate over, and over on long wooden planks and pads for their hands along the edges of the temple square. Women in their sixties and seventies move with such fluidity in their prostrations, hundreds of times…it puts my fitness level to shame. Other people can be seen praying in the beautiful temple adorned with buddhas and Tibetan Buddhist idolatry, while others sit studying Buddhist text. Again, like all of India, devotion is part of daily life.

There is a very powerful and present force of politics here to free Tibet of course from Chinese occupation. The streets and shops are filled with political slogans and paraphernalia supporting Tibet’s independence. Every night there is a vigil walk of monks and Tibetans in support of their families and political prisoners still in Tibet. There are documentaries shown regularly of the atrocities perpetuated by the Chinese government and of the plight of the Tibetans. Despite the heightened tension because of the Olympics in China, which sparked many demonstrations here and in Leh, the Tibetans, other Buddhists and Hindus create a very nice atmosphere for tourists. Oops ther goes the power! It is interesting to be in a place where the entire town supports a cause and I can really feel the solidarity. The Tibetan plight has been one I have had a great interest for many years so it is really intriguing for me to be here in the middle of this movement and to hear, feel and see its power. The Tibetans are a most gracious and lovely people-always smiling, willing to help and are so friendly-their optimism, calmness and flexibile nature regardless of their refugee status is inspirational to say the least.

The town of McLeoadganj is set in a valley surrounded by lush, green mountains. Houses are built into the hillsides and most of the walking involves a great deal of up and down. .My guesthouse is down a hill from the main road and it does involve quite the increase in heartrate to climb up to reach the street. I am dreading carrying my luggage up to the street when I leave. Everything right now drips with moisture-buildings, trees, bushes and humans! It is unadviseable to go anywhere without an umbrella. As any small place in India, there is a juxtaposition of modern with the old. Donkeys carrying loads of rock share the same pathways as new automobiles. New modern coffeshops share the street with shoeshiners, beggars and local street vendors trying to make a sale.

I walked to Bhagsu and to Dharmkot… a few kilometers away. It so far is my favourite walk because of the monkeys. There are many, many of them…maybe a hundred. They are so fascinating and entertaining to watch. They are so humanlike. I could sit all day and watch them. The babies are the cutest. They allow humans to get very close. They forage through the garbage and bush and the babies climb trees..just like little monkeys! On one trip back from Dharmkot, we witnessed a little fight with the dogs and the monkeys. They normally peacefully share the territory, but one monkey got too close to a dog’s house and a fight ensued. There was no bloodshed, but the way the monkeys all ran to help each other and the way they communicated to each other was a so novel for me to see. The monkeys climb on sundecks and rooftops of peoples places. I think it is so cool although I am sure the locals see them as pests. I got a little too close to a mother and child so another monkey came after me. I did get a little scared and fled quite fast. They can surround you and it can be scary despite their utter cuteness. I am sure they can be vicious. Bhagsu is a little village for “hippie-type” tourists, most Israelis go here to stay. It is full of shops, restaurants and tourist services. There is an old Hindu Shiva temple surrounded by these really nice cold baths. The monks were swimming in the pool in the rain and a big part of me wanted to join them but I didn’t. Doesn’t seem to be the female thing to do. This is the difficult thing here about being female in India. It is just not acceptable for females to do so many things here publicly. I feel I have to curb many behaviours for I do not want to offend people, nor stick out like a sore thumb. Most western women do not heed social norms this way, but identifying myself as Indian and a woman has made me think twice about certain behviours here. In India, it is more fun to be male there is no doubt. There is also the most unique Hindu temple in Bhagsu that seems more of a children’s theme park with charicature type gods and goddesses of bright colours. It is quite hilarious and inside kids hang out amongst their favourite deities where you can crawl up to a cvae through a lions or alligators mouth as if it were a playground of sorts. A fun temple!

I have been chumming with a woman from Finland, who has been in India for 8 months now. She volunteers at a place for sick and poor people in Kolkata (Calcutta) but has taken leave to travel a bit. She is an amazing person. I have met many women traveling alone for many months. Most people here travel for months…my stay is about average. There is just too much to see and to absorb here. Even now, I have changed my plans and will not be going down south. I do not have time before my Yoga course and there is too much to see in the North. I am a bit disappointed, but it will be something to look forward to for next time. India is addictive. Everyone who is serious about knowing India says they will come back. I have met many, many people who have been here numerous times. It is a hop, skip and a jump for Europeans…and as a result, I have met only one Canadian from Quebec who has been here 8 months and a handful of Americans thus far. I suppose it is too expensive and too far for many North Americans.

There are many courses offered here from cooking to yoga to Reiki to silver jewelry making to ayurveda medicine…it would be a great place to come back to to spend more time and take advantage of the opportunities. You can experience massages, reiki treatments, ayurvedic treatments, Tibetan healing, different meditation techniques and of course learn Buddhist philosophy. I have been going to yoga and meditation just below my guesthouse…it is great!

I will head off to Amritsar and Saroop and Maina’s in a few days. I am putting if off a bit because it is 39 celcius in the day. I was hoping it would have cooled off a bit by now. That’s it…Leila

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