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Published: October 29th 2018
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Magical & Mystical Modhera!! What caught the eye at Modhera, Gujarat? Was it the embellishment of the stone temples, was it the mathematical precision with which shrine and assembly hall were built or was it the sheer beauty of the water tank (kund) that forms the third part of this architectural marvel?
History tells us the Sun Temple was built more than a thousand years ago by the Solanki Rulers, a patronizing lineage who promoted culture & art. One of the three sun temples in India (the other two being at Konarak, Orissa & Anantnag in Kashmir, the temple at Modhera exudes magnificence, architectural beauty, mathematical precision & is a remarkably well preserved monument to this day, though it’s well over a thousand years old.
My first visit to the sleepy non-descript town of Modhera occurred 25 years ago. It must be mentioned, though it was well preserved then; the Sun Temple, the Assembly Hall & the Water Tank we see today is far better than it was a quarter century ago. The patches of green that have been added offers contrast & adds a fine texture to the complex, thereby creating a surreal experience. A fair
amount of restoration has been done to the priceless sculptures & carvings adorning the monument. Credit must be given to the authorities for fine planning, execution & in succeeding in creating a fascinating experience for the regular as well as religious tourist.
On this occasion it was a race against time as Modhera was the last stop of a day of hectic sightseeing that took me from morning to Sabarmati, the Step Well at Adalaj, an unusual town called Siddpur & the intriguing Step Well at Patan. Hiralal my driver assured me we would arrive before sunset, which was a good thing as I would have just about an hour at this remarkable monument.
Dedicated to the Sun God, Surya; the shrine was built in 1027 under the Solanki Dynasty & is one of the greatest monument of Hindu architecture in Western India. Most visitors are stunned by the step well just outside the temples. Known by the name -Surya Kund (Sun Tank) the rectangular shaped water tank has 108 shrines located on different levels. The steps leading to the water tank at the bottom are feast for the eyes mainly because of its geometric precision, wonderfully carved
shrines & a magnanimity that dwarfs & overwhelms travelers. Then there are two free standing pillars just outside the water tank & at the entrance to the Assembly Hall.
Unlike many other temples, this Sun Temple has two structures built in an east – west axis with the entrance facing the east, thereby allowing the morning rays of the Sun to penetrate & illuminate the interiors. What intrigues the visitor are reasons for building two separate structures, one consisting of the main shrine, while the neighboring building has the octagonal assembly hall with fifty two finely carved pillars & porches.
I surmised it probably had something to do with the lavishness & prosperity of the Solanki Dynasty who may have embarked on an ambitious project of embellishing the exteriors of two structures with fabulous carving thereby affording the sculptors, masons & architects with much area to exhibit their exemplary skills as opposed to having a single structure with a smaller area. Or it could a scientific reason that may have needed great precision for the first rays of the morning sun to fall on the main deity twice a year on the day of the equinoxes – 21
March & 21 September; may have necessitated two temples.
As in many temples of North India, the exteriors have a plethora of carvings ranging from the Circle of Life from birth to death, fairies (Apasaras) dressed in fine jewelry & various poses, a variety of flora & fauna, & a row of elephants on the last but one level as though to signify the mighty elephants are supporting this masterpiece! The main shrine is built on a platform consisting of an inverted lotus, which is quite fascinating because the lotus blooms only in higher temperatures. The interior, like many temples is plainer suggesting man renounces all his worldly desires & passions when he/she comes face to face with the Divine. Sadly the main idol containing the Sun God sitting on a chariot with seven horses riding the chariot & studded with jewels & diamonds was plundered many years ago.
Art well Expressed, Classical Wonder, Outstanding Piece of Architecture are many descriptions I gave to this temple on completing my visit. The complex was strangely silent & quiet, save for the flutter of homing pigeons coming to roost for the night on the temple domes. Most visitors had left, I for one was left with a deep sense of satisfaction on completion of revisiting a heritage site we had not seen or understand in totality a quarter century ago. A longing desire & wish was finally fulfilled.
Reflecting back; building this temple to pay homage to the most powerful energy giver on Earth, Father Sun may have not been a bad idea after all. Almost all of us (ordinary mortals) have taken the Sun for Granted!!!
-Hector Dsouza .
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