Ahmadabad - your average 5-million person Indian city...

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February 5th 2010

Published: February 6th 2010

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danandkels

Mahatma Gandhi

Sabarmati Ashram

Our two night stop in Ahmadabad was more out of necessity then curiosity. We wanted to break-up the trip between Mumbai and Udaipur (which would have been 20 hours on the train) so we thought, why not stop for a couple days in the city where Gandhi called home for 15+ years of his life, and where his ashram still stands today. Gandhi is EVERYWHERE in India…he’s on every single note of currency, his statements and sayings are posted all over the place (toilets, train stations, businesses, walkways and taxis) and his happy, humble face pops up in random places all the time. So why not visit “the house that Gandhi built”?

Even with the Gandhi Ashram, Ahmadabad is not a touristy town and we saw maybe another dozen foreigners during our stay. But what we did see is how a typical Indian city of just under 5-million people goes about its day-to-day. In a word: Gong-Show! Kids packed in Rickshaws on their way to school; scooters swerving everywhere; people washing, bathing and shitting down on the banks of the river; elephants, camels, cows, donkeys, goats, dogs and monkeys roaming the streets - some attached to carts or with saddles,

Entrance to Ganhdi Ashram

Sabarmati Ashram

others on their own; vendors in the markets - actually selling useful things - not touristy souvenirs; and above all: really, really great Indian food - and cheap!

Until Ahmadabad we’ve been eating a lot of Indian food, and a lot of great food. But now we were seeing what it costs the locals rather then the tourist prices. And the quality of the food seemed better too (or maybe it was my wallet telling my stomach how much it liked it) because if a restaurant was going to serve bad food to a local he would raise all hell! Our two favourite dishes were South Indian dishes called Dosa (a massive thin crepe, usually with a curried potato filling, served with coconut chutney and sambal, a spicy soup) and Thali (a platter of 6-12 sauces, soups, veggies, and chutneys served with rice, chapatti bread and puri bread) which in local places is unlimited with the waiters constantly asking you if you want any dishes refilled or more bread until you are ready to burst! It’s great!

We visited the Gandhi Ashram and found it to be a nice tranquil spot overlooking the river bank and the city

Wise Words

MG - Sabarmati Ashram

on the other side. At one point during the 1920’s there were hundreds of people living at the ashram, all devoted to Gandhi’s vows - truth, non-violence/love, chastity, control of the palate (only eat to survive), non-stealing, non-possessing/poverty, swadeshi (self-rule - independent of the British), fearlessness, removal of untouchables (equality towards the lowest cast of Hinduism), equality of religions, and physical labour. There were a number of panels and pictures that depicted the life of Mahatma Gandhi from his childhood in the 1870’s / 80’s, to his law-education in London, his legal & equality work in South Africa and then the duration of his life in India; “fighting” for equality and independence from the British through non-violence. It was very interesting learning about this incredible man’s life, and with his famous quote: “My life is my message” posted on the way out, we now understood a lot more about his life and his message.

The following day we visited a private textile museum owned by a descendant of the Raj (royalty) in a gated and guarded mansion which offered a tour once a day to 30 people run by a team that must have been trained by “Frau” from

Gandhi's House

Sabarmati Ashram

Austin Powers! While the 2-hour tour was free, and the articles quite beautiful (ranging from 300-year old Raj hunting tent canvases, to 200-year old tapestries, to 150-year old gowns, to 400-year old carpets) the no photos, no stopping, no staring, no doddling, no questions, no postcards, hurry, hurry, lights on, lights off, pace of our fast talking Indian tour guide women KIND OF took away from the experience. Good thing it wasn’t the only reason we were in Ahmedabad!

That night, it was on to another night train towards Udaipur in Rajasthan… said to be the most romantic city in India… After the beep-beep, busy-busy 3 days in Ahmedabad we were ready for it!

Until Next Time…

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