Indianna Jones and the Museum of Old Goa

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Let me introduce you to Waturu who we met on boarding the train here. He actually had the next seat to us and joined us in our air con waiting room. Infact up until today we have almost gone everywhere together with him. Waturu is from Japan and like us is travelling the world having given up his job in Japan. We are almost taking the same route around India, and unbelievably he flies to New Zealand the day after us!!! He is coming to England in August for a few weeks so there maybe a few visits going on!!! He has been great company and fun and if he's reading this - don't forget to email David!!!

Anyway onwards with the story so far ....

In the evening we decided to board a river cruise departing Panjim at 6.15pm. The trip lasts an hour and you cruise on the Mandovi Delta. We boarded our 'luxury' liner and headed straight up the stairs onto the large and sparse top deck, along with a rather large number of other sailors! There are many Indians here on holiday from other parts of the country and we or more's to the point David at Wataru became the centre of attention. Lots and lots of people kept coming over to us and introducing themselves, asking why we were here, where we were going etc. And then, lots and lots of photos, with children with parents, with brothers and sisters!!! So much so we didn't notice we had set sail!! The boats are top heavy and absolutley lethal, we feel sure it is only a matter of time before one goes down, with the ensuing devastating results. The trip takes you upto the mouth of the estuary and then back and because the boats are so old and clumbersome it takes all that time. Really there is nothing to see. We concluded that it was more for the entertainment that was provided on the deck below that the boats sailed. But still the experience of meeting so many friendly and genuinely interesting people was one we were glad we didn't miss.

Afterwards we retired to eat at the Shre Punjab. Wow what a meal. David and Wataru both had starters which were main meals in their own right. The main meals were even bigger, David and Waturu both having chicken dishes and me having vegetarian. We are definatley not going to go hungry at the moment. Everything is done for you, which is rather disconcerting. Chairs pulled out, napkins laid, doors held open, drinks poured continually, food served - it's endless. It's very hard to grasp but we have to accept it no matter how difficult. Even when I say no thank you to taxi drivers, or hawkers, you get a response of either 'thank you very much' or 'your welcome'. Manners go a long way and cost nothing.

The next day saw us catching a bus to Old Goa. The bus station was manic. Buses coming and going every few minutes - no problems if you missed one - another one was there. They shout out the names of where they are going to exactly as in South America.

We followed the Madovi river for about half an hour before alighting at the World Heritage site of Old Goa. You are met off the bus by hawkers selling earrings, necklaces, candles, drinks, chess games - oh all sorts! The area contains the largest churches in Asia and in the 1500's Old Goa was bigger than London and Lisbon - hard to believe now its been reclaimed by the jungle. Its demise coming about following the Inquistion and an epidemic. We visited Se Cathedral where they were restoring a very large painting on the floor. Working by 4 arc lights and natural day light, I watched while the placed a piece of linen on the top right hand corner and proceeded to place an exceptionally old iron on to the linen and ironed away. Please tell me they know what they are doing - I fear the worst. Attached is a magnificent museum which we wandered around and here Indianna Jones met with a potential hernia! We have found 2 Sriva linga stones, and they are not the tiny ones in the film. They are huge, there is no way one would be carried any distance!! Unfortunately we weren't allowed to take a photo folks (let alone take one in true Indi style!). We then had a very informative taxi ride upto the churh of the Lady of the Mount. This church is on a hill and gives the most wonderful views over Old Goa, and it is only from here you can truly appreciate the scenery. The church windows are made from oyster shells because they reflect the sun and keep the interior cool. This is the only church in this area that uses them. Unfortunately it was closed and we weren't allowed in.

On our return to the bus station we bought our tickets for our next train journey (less any air con waiting rooms!). On entering the office, you have to approach the counter a complete a transport/destination form. Once complete you return to the counter with completed form, to gain a token. You then sit and wait for your token number to be called before approaching the counter again to book your tickets. Fortunately we didn't have to wait too long and our tickets were booked easily. We leave Sunday night for a 15 hour trip to Kochi in Kerala.

The next morning saw us heading for the Post Office with various bags of clothes to be forwarded to various destinations. As we got there a 9.00am we were met by an old gentleman who was a tailor and whisked us off to his shop. Here he measures the parcels and gets the exact sized linen and squeezes the parcel into it. His willing assistant helps too. She then sows this parcel meticuously until there is absolutely no way it could ever be opened. Five forms have to be completed for each parcel! We had 3 parcels to send. An hour and half later saw us in the Post Office actually posting them! The tailor sent me ahead telling me to get in the queue. ready for when David caught up with me. However, today there was no queue and I was served straight away. David caught me up ten minutes later and all parcels were sent.

Afterwards once more we went to the bus station and this time our destination was the Tropical Spice Farm outside Ponda. Takes about an hour to get there and then you have to catch a taxi to the plantation. The tour takes about an hour and you are greeted with a herbal tea. This tea is made from Cardamon, Ginger and Lemon Grass and it is very very nice! Lunch is also provided on a banana leaf and consists of chick pea curry, vegetable biryani, lime pickle, salads, fried potatoes and water melon. All very good. We had a walking tour into the plantation and saw, vanilla plants, cashew trees, cardamon, pepper, chilli, betelnut, turmeric, saffron, five spice, cloves, jack fruit, pineapple, coconuts and love apples. What we didn't know was that cinammon bark comes from the bay tree! Now we all know that saffron is the most expesive spice, we can guess vanilla is the second, but what we didn't know that cardamon is third!

And here's the test ... what is the king and queen of spice??

So now today we have moved to Candolim Beach and this folks is where you are going to hate us. We have found a hotel with swimming pool, and there is no one here but us. We are here till Sunday and are stretching our legs to the beach to eat, to the pool to swim and to the balcony to drink! Bacardi Breezers are 50p a bottle! Our only room mates (not literally) are chameleons, the biggest butterflies ever and wonderfully beautiful birds. I have seen kingfishers and I think flycatchers. If they are flycatchers then they have black crested heads, white throats and chest and black/grey backs. Under their eyes and wings there is the most fantastic irridescent burt orange/red feathers - and I'm watching this from the poolside!

So there will not be much to report until we get to Kerala, but I think that will probably keep you going for now!

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