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Published: January 5th 2007
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With the Boxing Day test under way and England defeated before it has started it seemed pointless to settle in to watch another defeat, and the time had come to put on the shoes and travel further up to the capital of Goa Panaji, and to catch up with a mate of mine John Hayball (for those that don't know John is a work colleague from Cox Architects and has come out to travel across India for 4 weeks). It was good to catch up with a familar face again and after a couple of beers discussing the trials and tribulations of India, the meaning of the Indian head wobble (a shake of the head can mean anything from yes, no, maybe or hello) and the overwhelming smells of life, we set off to explore the city's boundaries. Panaji (or Panjim) is a beautiful city, one that i could probably live in, because, well it doesn't feel like India. Based along a mouth of a river, the streets are immaculate, people friendly and the architecture and atmosphere has been directly plucked from Portugal. As you wind down the narrow streets lined with Portuguese villas complete with shuttered windows, tiny cantilevered balconies
Panaji
Church over the city. all painted in fresh summer colors, you would think you were buried somewhere in Europe. That is until the rude awakenings of India emerge, smoke toting tuk tuk's roar past, wafts of urine float through the air blended with the smells of fish curry or the incessant locals spitting tobacco staining the pavements with red patches of dribble. But in contrast the other places, it really is clean and tidy, Goan's seem to have a little more pride in their cities presentation, probably becuase of the tourism. The highlight of the city center is the 'Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception', built in 1541 and was the first port of call for Portuguese sailors from Lisbon. And quite a sight it is, mounted high on a podium above the city, it's white wash walls beaming across the main street. As it so happened that evening we thought we would have a look at the Boxing Day service, although we some how found ourselves attending an extremely packed wedding, taking photos down the isle of the bride and groom.....whoops, oh well thats my second wedding in India so far. Another highlight was the trip a few kilometers away to
Old Goa
Convent Church of St Francis of Assisi. the old city, or Old Goa, previously the thriving capital in the 16th century, and is surrounded by churches, convents and every other religious icon you can think of. The town is most re-known for its 'Basilica of Bom Jesus' and is famous in the Catholic world as it contains the remains of St. Francis Xavier. But enough of the history lesson, both cities are out of this world, and out of India.
Heading further north along the Goan coast John and I prepared to settle in for New Years Eve at Anjuna and Vagator, known for it's night time party scene popular with European and Israeli travelers, the ever exuberant ravers of Goa. Now after all the hype that had previously been sourced from the internet and stories from other friends who has been previously, arriving here was a disappointment to say the least. The town wasn't quite what i had expected as it was sprend out over huge distances, traveling between beach, to bar, to coffee house and restaurants can be kilometers away, meaning that the only way to get around is via scooter. Although good fun and a laugh, it also becomes a pain in the
Beers in Anjuna
John and I. I think the bottle of Fosters sums it up. arse. Together with a severely lack of travelers due to the supposed 'terror threat' the area lacked a certain vibe and didn't have the party feel to it. All that said though it is easy to see why so many people are attracted to the area, generally for it's laid back attitude, easy people, exquisite restaurants and 'chill out' bars. There are some amazing spots scattered thoughout the area, hidden between beaches, residential areas and some just in the arse end of no where. Each harvesting there our character and vibe and most people just spend hours relaxing within the garden areas, sipping coffee, eating food, and generally enjoying the day. Some could say its a bit of a place to be seen rather than see, but hey i dare not make that judgment. The other major draw card to the area has to be the Anjuna Wednesday Flea Market, an amazing endless field touching the beach selling anything from Tiebetian silver jewelery, cheese cloth shirts, carved artworks of every discription and other nic-nak's for a 'special price for you Mr'. You can spend hours trapped in the grounds and the hardest part is not getting conned into buying useless
Arhhh Coffee
Breakfast at the German Bakery in Anjuna. crap. I kept having to remind myself that just because its cheap doesn't mean you have to buy it, plus the backpack is too small anyway, well thats the excuse i'm using for not buying anything yet.....tightarse.
While up in the north end of Goa we also explored further along the coast chasing through the beautiful country side on scooters, uncovering remote beach resorts and local villages. Riding to the rocky coves of Arambol and exploring its hidden beaches to as far north as the Tiracol Fort, now renovated into a stylish restaurant and hotel overlooking the Arabian Sea.
South of Anjuna we also took a seek at a vastly different beach, Calangute and Baga beach famous with European hoilday makers. Originally the beach was an attraction to the hippies of the 60's, but in now package tourist central with rows and rows of sun beds, colourful umbrellas and more touts than tourists stretching well over 10km. If you can survive the constant hassles, interruptions, and bickering of the local guys you doing well. Not to mention that the entire beach is covered with 65+ (no offence anyone) men and women wearing tans darker than chocolate, appearing more
like a leather jacket strapped across their back. Not my scene and a little to hectic for my liking but i guess it makes you appreciate the secluded anbd laid back nature of Anjuna and Palolem. One of the nicer more stunning views though is at the southern end of this strip of beach in Candolim, with a fort lined rockwall and bastion terminating at the end of the Sinquerim beach.
So after exploring pretty much all the beaches it was time to settle into Anjuna and New Years Eve. But still the people failed to show. Although there was a reasonable crowd at a few of the beach parties pre New Year, the crowd in all honesty wasn't my cup of tea. A little bit spacy, a little bit hippy and into their trance just a little too much for my liking. The range of music ranged from 'Goan Trance to .........duff duff....TO ....Trance'. So the New Year wasn't looking to flash, so bugger it, we've bitten the bullet and buggering off out of here and heading (back) down to Palolem Beach (2 hours south), where the vibe is a hell of a lot more social and comfortable,
Anjuna Flea Market
Getting all decked out in my raver gear....................NOT! so Palolem here we come.
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