GEORGIA - TBILISI - BETSY'S HOTEL

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I always wanted to go to Georgia after reading Simon Sebag Montefiore's historical work on Stalin and most particularly his brilliant novel of the Russian revolution, 'Sashenka' which is partially set in Tbilisi. So I jumped at the chance for a short business trip in March 2010.

Arriving in Tbilisi (via Istanbul on Turkish Airlines - another story) was a real delight. A brand new airport and NO VISA REQUIREMENT as an EU citizen... Wonderful!

I stayed at Betsy's Hotel which the blurb on the website [url=http://www.betsyshotel.com truthfully says

is a beautifully decorated, superbly staffed boutique hotel overlooking the center of Tbilisi. It is just steps away from Betsy's to Rustaveli Avenue, known as one of the grandest avenues in all of the former Russian member-states and the center of nightlife, culture and commerce. Betsy's Hotel has 57 well-appointed guest rooms and suites. All guest rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the city

The views were also wonderful! I really recommend Betsy's, it's not cheap and the food, while good, could be a bit more exciting for the prices one pays (I paid upwards of $175 all in) but the bar and lounge is a good meeting place and one has the feeling of being at home.

Rustaveli Avenue was a little disappointing, not from the point of view of architecture, but from the long line of Gucci-style shops and a lack of good coffee shops and restaurants. In the end I was forced to eat at the up-scale Tbilisi Hotel where a burger, fries and a beer cost me $40. That said, Tbilisi is an interesting city and well worth the visit.

But I was lucky enough to make visits outside the city, to the south, the north and the north-west. I'll write about my visit to Stalin's birthplace in Gori, South Ossetia, in another post, but suffice to say that the Georgian countryside is wonderful. Rolling uplands, tiny smallholdings framed by snow-capped mountains up to 15,000 feet above sea level. The Caucasus! Smell the air! If it wasn't for the ridiculous conflict in Ossetia and equally stupid arguments with Abkhazia Georgia could be a tourist paradise. It has sea (on the warm Black Sea coast), mountains, and a long historical culture.

My visit was all too short, but I met some great people, toasted the new friends in excellent home made wine and stayed at a brilliant family guest in Ambulauri in Racha Province. It was a challenge to get there over icy roads, but one of the most beautiful places I've ever been to.

The best book on Georgia as a country, by the way, is by Peter Nasmyth, 'Georgia: In the Mountains of Poetry'. Excellent read.

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Photos

View over Tbilisi
This was the view from my window at Betsy's Hotel in Tbilisi

The Caucasus
Taken on the road in Racha Province in the North-west on the way to Ambulauri.

The way people live
This is a typical smallholding near Gori in Shida Kartli Province. People keep a few cattle for milk, chickens and grow grapes and fruits (mainly apples). It's a tough but self-sufficient life.

A toast!
These very kind people in Ambulauri welcomed me into their home with a HUGE dinner and copious amounts of wine. The 'Thammadar" (holding the horn) leads a series of toasts; you can see from the rosy cheeks what the effect is!