Knackered in Kunming

Asia » China
June 22nd 2005

Published: June 27th 2005

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Larluv

22 hour train ride to Kunming

I woke up early and headed to the train station dreading the 22 hour train ride to Kunming that was facing me. I had a ticket for a Hard Sleeper seat as the Soft Sleeper was sold out. But I was told by some travelers that once on the train, you can upgrade.

I bought my food (water, waffer cookies and two bowls of dried noodles which you just add hot water to for a meal....the trains have hot water machines as everyone needs it for noodles and tea) and headed to the station. There, I met an Austrial couple who have been traveling for 7 months and an Isreali girl (Einat) who was traveling for a few weeks). We boarded the train and the Hard Sleeper area (six bunk beds) was scary looking. Dirty and filled with sketchy characters. There were no doors so I locked my backpack to the overhead railing.

I immediately headed up to the train conductor and got an upgrade. For only $8 more, I was able to get into the Soft Sleeper car which features 4 beds in a room with a door that can lock. The people in the section as you

hallway chatting

the hallway of our train car becomes the center for traveling tips and political discussions.

can imagine was an upgrade too. Their was a group of four Dutch people and nice Chinese people. I roomed with a Chinese couple (who told me the hard sleeper section can be dangerous with thefts and robberies. In the Soft Sleeper section I met up with Einat again and a Danish girl named Louise. We became quick friends and ended up playing cards, eating, talking...helped the time go by quicker. The Soft Sleeper car was also air conditioned which helped as the heat outside was brutal. Many people from the other non-aircon train cars kept coming to ours for relief. Next thing I knew, we were in Kunming.

It was 6am when we arrived in Kunming so to the youth hostel we went (The Hump). We spent the day walking around town where I snapped a lot of photos. It is amazing how quickly you can go from a nice area to a delapitate area and then again to a nice area....all within one block. The muslim area (where I got the photo of the cow carcass) looked like a bombed section with huge rubble piles and buildings in shambles. But turn the corner and wham, nice shops

luxury accomodations on the train

with designer clothes and fashionable chinese pedestrians.

We also carried our laundry to a shop where we spent 30 minutes playing charades with the owner to get a good price and instruct him on our needs (no ironing, etc.). Ahhh....the glamorous world of traveling.

The next morning I met a guy from Honk Kong (Patrick) and he joined us to go to the Stone Forest (nice again to have a Chinese speaking person along). We were too late for the bus so we visited the Western Hill for some hiking. There we met two NY Lawyers (married couple) who quit their jobs and will be traveling for 4 months. They were also heading to Dali so we might see them in a day or two when we leave. We climbed the entire mountain to the Dragon gate where once you past through, you should have good luck.

Next day we were able to find a ride to the Stone Forest (with a stop first at a temple). We wandered the stone forest for a few hours and even attempted to trek off the beaten path but were foiled by sticky bushes.

That night, we agreed to

moring Tai Chi

we arrive in Kunming at 5am so we are able to catch a glimpse of some Tai Chi-ers from the balcony of our Youth Hostel (the Hump) which costs us $3.50 per night for a 4-person 2 bunk bed room with communal bath and showers.

catch the 9am train to Dali (a six hour ride).

Hope everyone is well.

L

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